) Click to view |
)
The history of the great trans-continental railroad is familiar to all Americans, who have watched its progress from the time when the first shovelful of dirt was lifted in its construction until its final completion. Yet each portion, the west as well as the east, has a bit of history attached to it, in which the people of that locality take especial pride. Without tiring our readers with a long array of figures, we propose to give a brief sketch of the Central Pacific R.R., and in this connection we shall claim that the Golden State, by her representative, was really the moving power which brought this mighty project before the nation, secured its aid, and by that means, assured its rapid completion. For some years previous to the time when the final act was passed by Congress—which was to provide those of the western coast with speedy and safe communication with the homes of their youth—the question of the grand trunk road had been discussed by Californians as a public, and as private individuals. Many self-reliant men were sanguine of success, could the project be rightly brought before Congress. This feeling grew among the people of California, until a man who sought office at the hands of the people could not be elected were he not a "railroad man," provided that office was one wherein the holder could injure the prospects of the proposed road. Through the counties where the line was supposed to run, the question was strongly agitated, for those counties were expected to assist the undertaking, by voting their credit in various sums. So eager were the people of the interior of the State to have the enterprise commenced and completed, that they were willing to accede to any terms which would insure the success of the enterprise and relieve them from the oppression of a powerful water monopoly, which controlled the main line of travel to the east.
The members of Congress from California knew that their election was in part owing to this feeling, and that much was expected of them by their constituents. They failed not when the time arrived, but to one—A.A. Sargent—more than all others, is California indebted for the great work which now binds her to her Eastern sisters.
But we are proceeding too fast, overlooking, but not forgetting, another name, none the less honored because the bearer lived not to behold the final completion of the work he initiated and so earnestly advocated. Theodore D. Judah now sleeps the sleep that knows no awaking, but still his presence can be seen and felt in every mile of the grand road which his genius brought into being. His name is a household word in the West, for thousands knew and appreciated the manly spirit and genial mind of the earnest, persistent and sanguine ENGINEER.
In the then little hamlet of Sacramento dwelt C.P. Huntington, "Charley" Crocker, Mark Hopkins and a few others warm personal friends of Judah—who, often, in the long, winter evenings, gathered around the stove in Huntington & Hopkin's store room, and there discussed the merits and demerits of the Judah theory. These and some other gentlemen became convinced that the engineer was right—that the scheme was practicable. They subscribed $50 a piece, and, in the summer, Judah and his assistants made a careful survey of the passes in the Sierras. This was in the summer of 1860, and in the fall the engineer party returned, toil-worn and travel-stained, but vastly encouraged and elated with the result of their summer's work. So favorable was the report that $1,500 was immediately raised to be used the following summer in the same manner. The summer of '61 found Judah and his party in the gulches and defiles of the Sierras, earnestly prosecuting their labors. The result but confirmed the previus report, with, if possble, more encouraging details regarding country, cost, etc.
)
Click to view
Page 107
Judah then visited many of the principal capitalists of San Francisco to obtain subscriptions for the work, but failed to obtain a dollar. "But this road—what was it? Nothing that concerned them. It did not represent capital A poor engineer wanted to make some money, and had started the idea for that purpose." These wise men shook their heads, and sneered at the undertaking. "What, can they do," said they, "even with their charter from the State? They have no money—they are poor men. It's only a sharp dodge on their part. They think the road will be undertaken in time and then when that time arrives, they will stand a chance to sell their charter, and realize a few thousands—that's all. But they'll die before that time comes. Yes, they'll be dead before a railroad will be built across the continent." Such was the general tone of conversation among moneyed men regarding the road in its infancy, and it cannot be denied that the people of California owe nothing to the capitalists of their State—not even their thanks—for aid in the earliest days of the enterprise. The bone and sinew of the people—the mechanic and the merchant, the farmer, laborer and miner—did all that could be expected of them. But the capitalists held back—and for good reason. They feared that the railroad would give the death blow to the monopolies in which they were more or less interested. Sacramento alone deserves the credit of having originated and brought to a successful completion the Central Pacific Railroad. When the State had chartered the company, when only funds were neccessary to insure the completion of the work, only two subscriptions were obtained in San Francisco, and one of these came from a woman.
In '62, Judah went to Washington with charts, maps, &c., of the road. Sargent was there, as enthusiastic in the support of the measure as Judah himself. He drew up the bill under which the road was built. James H. Campbell, of Pennsylvania, and Schuyler Colfax, (than whose there is no more honored name in California,) were his most efficient supporters in the House. In the Senate, McDougal, of California, Wilson, of Massachusetts, and Morrill, of Maine, also stood manfully by the measure. And there was fought the great battle. There enlightened ideas, assisted by young and vigorous intellects, met and conquered prejudice and moneyed opposition, and opened a new commercial era in the annals of the Union. But it was not accomplished without a long and wearying struggle, in which the bull-dog pertinacity and fierce grip of Sargent was manifested. Day after day, for weary weeks, in the Committee of the Whole, Sargent and Campbell stood up alternately, and answered objections as fast as made, in short, sharp, close and cutting speeches. And night after night, they held interviews with Eastern Senators and Representatives, while at their side, supplying them with information on all desired points, sat Theodore D. Judah, the engineer, earnest and hopeful to the last. Senators did not nor would not believe that the road could or would be built. Said Lovejoy, during one of the debates: "Do I understand the gentleman from California to say that he actually expects this road to be built?" "The gentleman from Illinois may understand me to predict that if this bill is passed, the road will be finished within ten years," responded Sargent. People can now judge between Lovejoy's and Sargent's ideas of the vigor of the West.
The end came, the bill was finally passed, and the news thereof caused the hearts of Californians to leap for joy. Ground was broken at Sacramento, and work commenced immediately. Another battle was to be fought, a financial one. Before they could receive any aid from Government, 40 miles of road must be built and stocked, which would cost at least $4,000,000, for that 40 miles carried the road far up among the Sierras, through a great portion of their heavy work. Money was "tight"—In fact it always is when a man wants some—commanding two per cent. per month
)
Click to view
Page 108
in California. The corporators put in their entire fortunes. The city of San Francisco issued bonds in assistance of the work; the State and several counties also rendered material aid, but all combined, was but a trifle compared to what was required. C.P. Huntington, now Vice President of the road, went to New York for aid, but among the capitalists there he met the same answer that had been given to Judah by the moneyed men of San Francisco. Finally, he met with Fisk & Hatch, dealers in government stocks. They feared not the result of the scheme. These energetic capitalists, with the promptness of young and active minds—while older capitalists were questioning whether there was really a serious intention of building the road—pledged their faith to furnish the company with what money they required and when they required it. The sum ranged from $5,000,000 to $20,000,000 per year; but they failed not, the money was always ready. The success of the enterprise was now assured. The bonds of the company were put on the market, and advanced rapidly in price, and soon the company had at their command all needful funds.
When the summit of the Sierras -view image- was reached, the road was pushed rapidly forward. But long ere this was gained, when the company was toiling among the mountains, jeers and taunts of derision could be found in plenty in the columns of California newspapers "The Dutch Flat Swindle," as the road was termed by some of these far sighted journalists—when the company were laboring to overcome the heavy grade near that town—has passed into a byword in California, and now is suggestive of success. The route, after the "summit" was gained, was then comparatively easy, and rapid progress was made. The Chinese laborers, who had worked on the road from first to last, drove the work forward, and on May 10th, the roads met on Promontory Point, 690 miles from Sacramento. The following will show the number of miles completed during each year: In 1863-4 and 5, 20 miles each year; in '66, 30 miles; in '67, 46 miles; in '68: 368 miles; in '69, 191 miles.
){kind=link}
We defer the description of the machine shops and Company's works until we arrive at Sacramento, where they are located.
We now resume our description of the road, commencing with
The first station from Ogden, on the Central Pacific Road. Elevation, 4,310 feet. Here are HOT SPRINGS, boiling up at the foot of a spur of the mountains, sending up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for some distance, serving as a guide to the locality. This class of springs abound in the great basin in great numbers. They are strongly impregnated with sulphur and other mineral substances. The odor arising from them is very strong, and by no means pleasant to people possessed of large noses. The railroad is laid so close to these springs, that it has, in a great measure, destroyed their original appearance.
Glimpses of Salt Lake have been seen before, away to our left, its mountain islands lifting their peaks far above the briny waters. As yet we have had but an imperfect view of this great natural curiosity. By and by, when nearing Promontory and after leaving that place, we shall obtain excellent views of this inland sea.
Near the station we pass through fine farming lands, amid luxuriant crops of wheat, barley and corn. With the rugged mountain on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest continually rising around us. Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sundered by canyons, gulches and ravines, is the old water marks of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, sweeping the mountain sides several hundred feet above us. The old water line is no creature of imagination, but a broad
)
Click to view
Page 109
bench, whereon the well worn rocks, the rounded pebbles and marine shells still attest the fact that once the waters of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two others, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake has had three different altitudes before they reached their present level.
About six miles west of Bonneville we pass near
A Mormon town of 900 inhabitants, situated at the base of the mountains. The mountains near this town present indications which would assure the "prospector" that they were rich in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which once lit up this country with its lurid fires, most effectually knocking many philosophical theories into a cocked hat, leaving their originators to study nature more and books less.
Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The masses of lava lying around—its bleak, barren, and desolate appearance—would seem to indicate that not many years had elapsed since it was in active operation.
But a few miles further on and we pass this town which, like the preceding one, is nestling close to the base of the mountain on our right. Like Willard City, it is a Mormon town, embowered in fruit trees. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The public buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons.
Passing Brigham City, we incline further away from the lake road, bearing up on the higher land. Now we cross Bear River on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles being driven in water 18 feet deep. A half mile beyond lies the only real Gentile town in Utah Territory,
This town contains about 1,000 inhabitants, and, at present, is the center of a very extensive trade. It has an elevation of 4,294 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,056 miles; from Sacramento, 718. It is situated near the west bank of Bear river, a few miles from the lake. The town is new yet, and many buildings are very primitive in construction. Still there are good buildings already constructed, and others are being put up. Among the buildings worthy of notice, is a substantial hotel, ticket, freight and telegraph offices.
The Utah Reporter, a Gentile paper, a perfect thorn in the side of the Mormons, is published semi-weekly.
The population of Corinne, like that of all new railroad towns, has been very fluctuating. The advantages possessed by Corinne cannot fail to render the place one of great importance in time, being, as it is, the distributing point for the Montana trade. Around the town are thousands of acres of fine land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them productive in the highest degree, and water for that purpose can be obtained from Bear river at little expense.
Coaches leave daily on arrival of passenger trains, carrying the U. S. mail and express, to Virginia City and Helena, Montana Territory. To Virginia City, 358 miles; to Helena, 482 miles.
The "Kate Connor," a small steamer built by Gen. Connor, plys on Bear river and the lake, carrying passengers to various points, also taking excursion and pleasure parties to the islands and other points of interest.
The route to Montana passes up Malad Valley and thence along the regular coach road to Virginia City and Helena. The country traversed is very diversified, mountain and valley, hill and glen alter-
)
Click to view
Page 110
nating, rendering the route attractive to the lovers of scenery. Malad and other valleys along the road are fertile and well watered; where many Mormon settlements will be found, surrounded by flourishing farms.
This Territory lies to the north of Utah, and is generally considered solely as a mining country. Although at one time Montana possessed excellent placer gold mines and "gulch diggings," they have mostly been worked out, consequently entailing dull times on the Territory, or that portion devoted to mining. The mining is now mostly confined to quartz, and before this can be rendered successful some time must elapse. Capital must be furnished to develop these veins, however rich they may be; and until the time arrives when her quartz mines are fully developed, Montana will feel the decline of her placer mines.
Although many and rich mines of gold have been discovered within her borders, their importance is secondary to her agricultural resources. The valleys of the Missouri, Clark's Fork of the Columbia, and many other rivers, possess the very best of farming and grazing lands, in quantities sufficient to support a large population. In the mines enterprise and capital will eventually develop great wealth, but, here as in other mining countries where expensive machinery must be erected and a large capital invested, before the mines can be developed and worked with profit, time is required to develop her resources; but her people are energetic and persevering, have full faith in the future of their Territory, and will, in time, render it what they contend it really is, one of the wealthiest sections of the Union.
This town contains about 8,000 inhabitants. The energy and enterprise of the Montana people cannot be better illustrated than by referring to the great fire which swept over this city in 1869, completely destroying the business portion of the town. Within 60 days the town was rebuilt with substantial buildings of brick and stone, showing that the Helenites had full faith in their city and the country's resources and recuperative powers. Two daily papers are published here: the Herald, by Fisk & Co., and the Gazette, by Wilkinson & Co.
The capital of Montana, contains about 1,000 inhabitants. The Democrat, a triweekly paper, is published by J.T. Bruce.
We will now return to the railroad, and proceed westward.
We gradually draw near the base of the mountains, which slope nearer toward the waters of the lake. The farming lands gradually give way to alkali beds, white, barren, and glittering in the sun, with a hard, gray light, very disagreeable and wearying to weak eyes. Now the road curves along the bank of the lake, crossing the low flats on a bed raised several feet above the salt deposits. The channel along the road, caused by the excavation for these fills, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste it at the first opportunity, and you will wish that the first opportunity had come last, or that it never had arrived. We cross three small pile or trestle bridges, the longest being 200 feet in length, and soon strike the higher broken land, where we find
Elevation, 4,360 feet.
Leaving the station, we cross Blue creek on a trestle bridge, 300 feet long and 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind around the heads of several little valleys, crossing them well against the hill side, by heavy fills. After passing some deep cuffing and heavy work, we pass a trestle bridge at our left, 500 feet long, and 87 feet high. This bridge was built by the Union Pacific Railroad Co., who continued their track to
)
Click to view
Page 111
Promontory, but was abandoned by order of Congress and the junction of the two roads transferred to Ogden. The old track of the Union Pacific runs within a short distance of the Central Pacific all the way to Promontory, the former junction of the two roads. At and around this point the work is very heavy. This was one of the hardest "camps" along the whole line of the Pacific R.R. It is said that 28 deaths by violence occurred in one month, eight men being shot one morning. A stranger entered a restaurant one morning and sat down to a table occupied by two men. One of the parties helped himself to more gravy than his neighbor thought right. Drawing his six-shooter, he deliberately shot him dead at his feet. Horrified, the stranger sprang from his seat, but found himself covered by the six-shooter. "Sit down and finish your breakfast," said the murderer, and the stranger was compelled to do so, with the corpse of the murdered man lying beside him.
Through more deep rock cuts and over heavy fills, we wind around Promontory Mountain until the lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine puffing and snorting with its arduous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads.
Elevation, 4,905 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,084 miles; from Sacramento, 690. Celebrated for being the point where the connection between the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869.
The town was formerly composed of about 30 board and canvas buildings including several saloons and restaurants, but is now almost entirely deserted. The supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the gulches of the Promontory Mountain. The railroad company obtain their supply from Indian creek and other water stations along the line, by means of water cars, a train of which is run daily.
The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow luxuriantly.
On Monday, the 10th of May, 1869, a large party was congregated on Promontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quarters of the earth. There were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the golden shores of the Pacific slope, from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue-clad boys, with their burnished muskets and glistening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave earnest men, most of them, who are gathered here; men who would not leave their homes and business, and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent, only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was to witness such an event, to be present at the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises, that they had gathered here. They were here to do honor to the occasion when 1,774 miles of railroad should be united, binding in one unbroken chain the East and the West.
To witness this grand event, to be partakers in the glorious act, this assemblage had convened. All around was excitement and bustle that morning; men hurrying to and fro, grasping their neighbor's hands in hearty greeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final triumph of the friends of the road, over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the western summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the as-
)
Click to view
Page 112
semblage dispersed, and quiet reign once more, broken only by the hoarse scream of the locomotive; and when the lengthening mountain shadows shall sweep across the plain, flecked and mottled with the departing sunbeams, they will fall on the iron rails which will stretch away in one unbroken line from the Sacramento to the Missouri rivers.
The hours passed slowly on until the sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering rays falling directly down upon the vacant place, between the two roads, which was waiting to receive the last tie and rails which should unite them forever. On either road stood long lines of cars, the impatient locomotives occasionally snorting out their cheering notes, as though they understood what was going on, and rejoiced in common with the excited assemblage.
To give effect to the proceedings, arrangements had been made by which the large cities of the Union should be notified of the exact minute and second when the road should be finished. Telegraphic communications were organized with the principal cities of the east and west, and at the designated hour the lines were put in connection, and all other business suspended. In San Francisco the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the ponderous bell could spread the news over the city, the instant the event occurred. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Boston, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago were waiting for the moment to arrive when the chained lightning should be loosed, carrying the news of a great civil victory over the length and breadth of the land.
The hour and minute designated arrived, and Leland Stanford, President, assisted by other officers of the Central Pacific, came forward; T.C. Durant, Vice-President of the Union Pacific, assisted by General Dodge and others of the same company, met them at the end of the rail, where they reverently paused, while a reverend gentleman invoked the Divine blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful piece of workmanship, of California laurel, with silver plates on which were suitable inscriptions, was put in place, and the last connecting rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes were then presented, one of gold, from California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. President Stanford then took the hammer, made of solid silver, and to the handle of which were attached the telegraph wires, and with the first tap on the head of the gold spike at 12, M., the news of the event was flashed over the continent. Speeches were made as each spike was driven, and when all was completed, cheer after cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic assemblage.
Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the C.P.R.R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of the U.P.R.R. Co., approached from each way, meeting on the dividing line, where they rubbed their brown together, while shaking hands, as illustrated above. To say that wine flowed freely, would convey but a faint idea of the good feeling manifested, and the provision made by each company for the entertainment of their guests and the celebration of the event.
Immediately on the completion of the work, a charge was made on the last tie, (not the silver plated, gold-spiked laurel, for that had been removed and a pine tie substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it was cut and hacked to pieces and the fragments carried away as trophies or mementoes of the great event. Even one of the rails last laid in place was cut and battered so badly that it was removed and another substituted. Weeks after the event we passed the place again, and found an enthusiastic person cutting a piece out of the last tie laid. He was proud of his treasure that little chip of pine, for it was a piece of the last tie. We did not tell him that three or four ties had been placed there since the first was cut in pieces.
In the cars belonging to each line, a sumptuous repast was served up to the invited guests. Then as the sun sank
)
Click to view
Page 113
THE EAST AND THE WEST.
THE ORIENT AND THE OCCIDENT SHAKING HANDS AFTER DRIVING THE LAST SPIKE.
)
Click to view
Page 114
low toward the western summit of Promontory Point, the long trains moved away with parting salutes from the locomotives, and the celebration was ended, the participants speeding away to their far distant homes, and so closed the eventful day on Promontory Point.
Behind the station at Promontory the hills rise into the dignity of mountains. To the top of the left hand point we strolled one day. It was Sunday, and the way the sun poured its rays down on the side of that old gray mountain, reminded us that there was at least, a visible foundation for the theory of warmer climes for those who indulged in Sunday climbs, in opposition to Sunday laws. After an hour's toilsome walking through sage-brush and bunch grass; then among sage-brush and rocks until we had attained a height to which that persistent shrub could not attain; then among more rocks, stunted cedars, tiny, delicate flowers and blooming mosses, until we stood on the summit of the peak, on a narrow ridge of granite, not over four feet wide, and there, almost at our feet—so steep was the mountain—lay the Great Salt Lake, spread out like a vast mirror before us, its placid bosom glittering in the morning sun, like a field of burnished silver. Mile after mile it stretched away, placid and motionless, as though no life had ever caused a vibration of its currents, or given one restless impulse to its briny bosom.
By the aid of the glass, Church or Antelope and other mountain islands could be distinctly seen, rearing their towering crests far above the silver border at their base, their sloping sides enrobed in the greenest of all green covering. Standing there, as lone sentinels in the midst of this waste of waters, they possess a wondrous beauty, as a recompense for their utter isolation. But now—on this bright spring morn, when earth puts on her loveliest garments—is the time to view them; and to carry away with you a pleasing remembrance.
You do not want to view them in the fall or winter, when the green hue has given place to the dusky brown, or parched and glinting gray. Then their rock-crowned summits are wreathed in snow, which falls in fleecy folds and life-chilling shrouds far down their cold gray sides.
Away beyond these islands rise the white-crested Wahsatch mountains, and we think that we can pick out the curve in their brown sides where nestles Salt Lake City, secure and beautiful in her mountain fastness. Far away to the southward the range blends with the sky and water, and the dim, indistinct lines of green, brown and silver blend in one, while above them the clear blue of the mighty dome seems to float and quiver for a space, and then sweeps down to join them, blending with them in one waving mass of vanishing color, which slowly recedes in the dim distance until the eye can follow its course no farther. Turn now to the left, and there, sweeping far up behind Promontry Point is the northwestern arm of the lake, Monument bay. That long, green line is Monument Point, throwing its long ridge far out into the bosom of the lake, as though it would span the waters with a carpet of green. Away to the west, Pilot Knob rears its crest of rocks from out the center of the great American Desert. Do not look longer in that direction—all is desolation; only a barren plain, and hard, gray rocks, and glinting beds of alkali meet the vision.
One more view to the north, one look at the lines of green hills and greener slopes which sweep down toward the sandy, sage-clad plateau on which stands the station; another and last look at the placid lake, and now, cooled and refreshed by the mountain breeze, we pluck a tiny moss bell from the cleft in the highest rock, and then descend the rugged mountain. We have seen Salt Lake from the most commanding point of view, and now we are better able to understand its shape and comprehend its dimensions, which are 126 miles in length by 45 in width. The principal
)
Click to view
Page 115
islands are Antelope (15 miles long), Sheep's, Hot, Stansbury, Carrington and Egg. They possess many charming summer retreats, many natural bathing places, where the gravelly bays intrude among the grass-covered points and hillocks. The water is so buoyant that it is difficult for the bather to sink therein.
The lake has no outlet for the waters continually pouring into it from Bear, Jordon, Weber and other rivers. Evaporation absorbs the vast volume, but it is a noticeable fact, and one worthy of consideration, that since the settlements have been made in the Territory, and the bosom of the earth has been turned with the plow, rendering the barren wastes blooming and productive, that the waters of the lake have risen steadily, and now are 12 feet higher than they were 20 years ago. Fences, which once enclosed fine meadow land, are now just peering above the floodmarking its steady encroachment on the fertile bottom lands. The grand old mountains bear unmistakable evidence of the water's presence far up their rocky sides. At what time the floods reached that altitude, or whether those mountains were lifted from the present level of the lake by volcanic action, and carried these water lines with them, are questions no one can answer. Savans may give learned theories regarding things they know nothing of; they may demonstrate that Salt Lake is held in its present position by immutable laws, but they cannot destroy the ocular evidence that it is rising, slowly and steadily, and has been so doing during the last 20 years.
On the west side of Promontory Point, the line, known as Colonel Hudnut's survey of the Idaho and Oregon branch of the U.P.R.R., crosses the Central road, and passes north to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear creek or Raft river, to Snake river and along the southern bank of this stream to Old's Ferry, thence, across the country to Umatilla, on the Columbia river. For the entire distance between Promontory and Raft river the country is uninviting, though not barren. From thence the route passes through a country abounding in fertile valleys and bold mountains—the latter well wooded. There is plenty of wood and other materials for building the proposed road along the whole length of the line. To the mouth of Raft river from Promontory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the line is varied, from smiling, fertile valleys to lofty, snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the general characteristics of the route and of one or two points of remarkable interest. The main feature of the Snake or Shoshone river is its majestic cataracts. We will give a short description of the river in which they are found. The stream, sometimes called Lewis river, is the south fork of the Columbia, and was discovered by Lewis, one of the earliest pioneers who ventured westward of the Rocky Mountains, in 1808. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's Peak, in the Wind River Range, which divides Idaho and Dakota Territories. The head waters of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig's and Salt creeks, on the south, with the outlets of Lyon's and Barret's lakes, on the north. The general course of the river from its source to Big Bend, is northwest. At this point, Henry's Fork, a large stream flowing from the north, empties its waters into the main river. Thence the course is southwesterly until the first falls are reached, about 400 miles from the river's source. These are called the AMERICAN FALLS, and are very fine, but do not present so sublime an appearance as will be seen about 100 miles further down the river, where will be found the
Of which we give a short description. The river here leaves the elevated plains of Idaho by a series of cascades, from 30 to 60 feet high, closing the scene in one grand leap of 210 feet per-
)
Click to view
Page 116
pendicular. The width of the river at the point of taking the last leap is about 700 feet. The form of the falls is circular, somewhat like those of the Niagara. Before the river reaches the cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close in around it, until but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 1,000 feet below the tops of the bluffs. The most complete view of the falls is obtained from Lookout Point, a narrow spit of rocks which projects from the main bluffs a short distance down the stream from the falls. From this point Eagle Rock rises before us, in the midst of the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high; its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, where, year after year, the monarch of the air has reared its young. Near the center of the river are several islands, covered with cedar, the largest one being called Ballard's Island. Two rocky points, one on either side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels. Excepting in point of volume of water, the falls will compare favorably with Niagara.
From this point the river runs nearly west until it reaches War Eagle Mountains, about 800 miles from its source, when it turns due north, following that course for 150 miles, then bending again to the west it unites with Clark's river forming the Columbia. After leaving the last falls the country is less broken, and the work of building the road would be comparatively light for most of the way. Should the U.P.R.R. Co. build this branch, as proposed the trade of Oregon and Idaho would be thrown open to the East by a much shorter route than it now possesses.
We now resume our westward way, taking up our line of travel at Promontory, and bidding good by to its classic shades. We are off now, and soon. come to
A flag station, eight miles from Promontory. Elevation, 4,588 feet. The country is uninviting in appearance. We sweep around the brow of the hill and pass
Another flag-station, eight miles west of Rozel and five miles east of
Also an unimportant station. Elevation, 4,222 feet. Here the lake breeze sweeps by, bearing the heavy alkaline and saline odors peculiar to this locality and peculiarly offensive to invalids. Monument Point stretches far out into the lake—a slim, tapering promontory, covered with excellent grass. We shall not see much more of the article for some time to come, for we are fast nearing the Great American Desert; in fact we are inclined to think we have been in it for some time. Descending a heavy grade we sweep around the head of the western arm of the lake, nearing and leaving its waters for the last time.
or Indian Creek station, 17 miles further west. Elevation, 4,225 feet. This is a station of more importance than any yet passed since leaving Promontory. There are large water tanks by the road side, supplied from a spring in the foot hills, some miles to the northward. The Red Dome Mountains show their scattered spurs to the north, and to the southeast, Pilot Knob or Peak can be seen, lifting its rocky front far above the desert.
From this station a daily line of coaches leave, on arrival of the cars for Idaho and Oregon, and bear that title, the Idaho and Oregon Stage line. The route passes through Idaho and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting with the steamers of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the Columbia river. Through to Boise in two days; Walla Walla, four days; Portland five and a half days.
About 25 miles to the northward, in the gulches which pierce the mountains in every direction, large quantities of telegraph poles are obtained, and wood in abundance, with some good saw tim-
)
Click to view
Page 117
ber. About ten miles further in the same direction, some silver and copper mines have lately been discovered, which are reported very rich. Before leaving this point, we will take a glance at the
To which the line of stages spoken of convey the adventurous passengers. It lies in the southwestern portion of Idaho Territory, bordering on Oregon. Extensive mines of gold have been worked there for several years, and still continue to attract much attention, as rich mines of gold-bearing quartz have been discovered and worked since the placer mines have been partially exhausted. The principal mining country is in that portion generally designated as the Boise Basin, which comprises a scope of country about 150 miles north and south by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise mines lie north of the Snake or Shoshone river. The principal streams in the mining section are Boise river, Fayette river, Wind creek, Moor's creek, and Salmon river. On the last named stream the miners have experienced considerable annoyance from the Indians, who have been exceedingly hostile.
The principal towns in this section are Boise City, Idaho City, Esmeralda, Centerville, and Silver City.
Is the capital of the Territory, county seat of Ada county. Population, about 6,000. The town site was surveyed July 7, 1863, and now contains about 450 buildings, a considerable portion of which are of brick and stone. Principal newspaper, the Statesman, triweekly and weekly. The town is situated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by fifty long. It is the center of several stage routes, and also of trade for a large section of country. It is about 300 miles northwest of Salt Lake City, 450 miles northeast of San Francisco, 420 miles southeast of Portland.
Is the second city in size in the Territory, and lies 36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which it is connected with stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The World newspaper is published here, semi-weekly
A straggling city, covering about 80 acres, and containing about 2,000 inhabitants. The buildings are granite, with the exception of a few, which are built of wood. The Democrat, a weekly newspaper, is published here.
We will now glance at the
Which lie south of the Snake river and War Eagle Mountains. This portion of the mining belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one just mentioned, and differs from it in its ores, silver mines predominating. The principal water courses of this section are Owyhee river, the north and south forks of the same, and the Jordan river. The principal towns are Ruby City, Silver City, and Boonville. These towns are connected with Boise City by stage.
We now return to the railroad. Leaving Kelton, we find nothing to note until we arrive at
An unimportant station, 16 miles west of Kelton, on the high lands, which sweep out from the Red Dome Mountains. Elevation, 4,630 feet. There the Red Dome Mountains, low sandstone ridges, sweep nearer down toward the track, breaking the general monotony of the scene. The road lies on the northern border of a vast waste, whereon we see few signs of verdure. The station is about midway from east to west of the
Which extends over an area of about 60 miles square. Over this vast extent the eye wanders in vain for some green ob-
)
Click to view
Page 118
ject, some evidence that, in times gone by, this waste supported animal life or will, eventually, in years to come. All is desolate in the extreme; the bare beds of alkali or wastes of gray sand alone meet the vision, if we except now and then, a rocky hill more barren than the plains, if such a thing were possible. Evidently this desert was once the bed of a saline lake, perhaps a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The sloping plain sweeps off towards that body of water, and, in places, bends down until its thirsty sands are laved by the briny flood. There are many evidences in support of the theory, that it was once covered by those waters, although much higher than the present level of the lake. The saline matter is plainly discernible in many places, and along the red sandstone buttes, which mark its northern border, the long line of water wash, so distinctly seen at Ogden and other points along, the lake shore, can be distinctly traced, and apparently on the same level as the bench at those places. The difference in the altitude of the road is plainly indicated by this line, for as we journey westward, and the elevation of the plateau increases, we find that the water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more.
For sixteen miles further we find no marked change to note until
Is reached. Elevation, 4,619 feet. The company have here erected work shops and a sixteen stall round-house. To the northward, the hills which mark the entrance to the Thousand Spring Valley, are plainly seen, brown, bare and uninviting. We pass on through the same barren looking country until we reach
Eleven miles to the westward. Elevation, 4,346 feet. But little of interest to note, the face of the country remaining about the same, though gradually improving. Spots of bunch grass appear at intervals, and the sage-brush seems to have taken a new lease of life, indicating a more congenial soil. We pass the sink of Goose creek, and arrive at
Thirteen miles west of the last station. Elevation, 4,494 feet. At this point we find water tanks, supplied by springs in the hills at the outlet of
Which lies to the north, just behind that first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the Humboldt Range, but a few miles distant. The valley is about four miles wide, and not far from 60 miles long taking in its windings from this point to where it breaks over the divide into Humboldt Valley. It is little better than one continual bog in the center—the water from the numerous brackish springs found there standing in pools over the surface. There is good range or pasturage for cattle in the valley and hills beyond. The old emigrant road branches off at, or near the station, one road passing through the valley, the other following nearly the line of the railroad, until it reaches the Humboldt via Humboldt Wells. The outlet of the valley,
Or, as it is sometimes called, Hot Spring creek—a small stream which courses the valley through its entire length sinks near by the station, rising and sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the desert.
Which rises about 20 miles north, running between the ends of the Goose Creek and Humboldt Ranges, unites with the former stream a few miles north of the road, but both combined do not furnish water enough to make more than a succession of pools, except in very wet seasons, when, it is said, their united waters reach Salt Lake—which is extremely doubtful, there being many miles of sand between the sink and that body of water.
We leave Utah Territory now, for we shall be in the State of Nevada before we reach the next station.
)
Click to view
Page 119
Ten miles West of Lucin. Elevation, 4,812 feet. An unimportant signal station. The stations, for some distance along this section of the road, possess no importance independent of the necessities of the road—wood, water, and the passing of the various trains. There are no points along here where freight is left, except for local use. Passengers rarely stop at any point, unless connected with the interests of the road. No game to hunt, no streams to fish in near by—there is nothing along or near the line of this division to tempt the tourist or prospector to pause and examine the country, excepting one place,
This remarkable landmark, which is visible at various points along the division, lies about five miles south of the road, almost opposite Tecoma station. It is a lofty pile of rocks—the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains—rising about 2,500 feet above the barren sands. For about half way from the base to the summit the sides are shelving piles of shattered rock, huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicular, the summit looking likes some old castle when seen at a distance, from Promontory Point, looking westward, this vast pile can be seen on a clear day, a dark mass amid the blue haze which bounds the western horizon. To the emigrant it was a welcome landmark, pointing his course to Humbolt Wells, or Thousand Spring Valley, where he was sure to find water and feed for his weary teams, after crossing the barren waste.
On the other extremity of the mountain, twelve miles from the Peak, veins of silver and copper ore were discovered by Joseph H. Roberts, in June 1869. The silver ore prospects well, is argentiferous galena, and from general indications the discoverer feels assured of the existence of extensive and valuable mines in the mountain. The copper ores are very fine, but will attract little attention at present. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic effort has yet been made to develop them.
On the north of the road, at the base of the Goose Creek range, placer mines have been found and slightly worked, but the yield of gold was too small to render them profitable, hence their abandonment.
Leaving Tecoma, we soon arrive at
Nine miles to the westward. Elevation 4,999 feet. The general aspect of the country is changing with the increasing elevation. We approach nearer the long, rough ridge of the Goose Creek Range, whose sides and gulches afford pasturage and water at intervals. We are leaving the barren sands behind us, and though the country is still uninviting it looks more capable of supporting animal life, during a portion of the year.
Eight miles west of Montello. Elevation, 5,515 feet. An unimportant station. Eight miles beyond this point we arrive at the end of Salt Lake Division.
And the commencement of Humboldt Division, which extends to Winnemencea, 236 miles distant. Elevation, 5,970 feet. From Omaha, 1,214 miles; San Francisco, 700 miles. This is a regular eating station. About 20 buildings of all sorts compose the town. It is 116 miles from Carlin, and is centrally located as regards many mining districts in eastern Nevada, and will, doubtless, be the diverging point from the railroad, for the following districts, viz.: Egan Canon, Kinsley, Kern, Patterson, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek—all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is now in operation from this place to Egan Canon, a distance of 90 miles south, and will soon be extended to Ely District, 225 miles, where
)
Click to view
Page 120
the celebrated Pioche mining company is located. North to the Mines about Boise City, and Idaho City, Idaho, the distance from this place is 100 and 220 miles. The company have a fourteen stall round house, and repair shops at this place.
Leaving Toano, we begin the ascent of Cedar Pass, which divides the Desert from Humboldt Valley. We find the country more broken, but possessing more vegetation. We have passed the western line of the Desert, where, in early days, the travel-worn emigrant wearily toiled through the burning sand, his journey unenlivened by the sight of water or vegetation. One word further, regarding this desert. The term sand is generally applied, when speaking of the soil of the barren wastes which occur at intervals along the road. With one or two exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well applies to the desert we have crossed. Most of the surface of this waste is sand, fine, hard and gray, mixed with marine shells and fossilized fragments of another age. There is no evidence on which to found a hope that this portion of the country could be rendered subservient to the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds of sands and alkali, overlaying a heavy gravel deposit. Ages must pass away before nature's wondrous changes shall render this desert fit for the habitation of man.
A signal station, 10 miles West of Toano. Elevation, 6,183 feet. Five miles further on, we pass
A signal station. Five miles further on and we arrive at
Independence Springs, from which the station derives it name, are near by, and supply the point with water.
Before leaving this station, we will take a short look at a series of valleys, generally known as Ruby Valley, but still bearing different names. We will begin with
A small and unproductive division, sloping to the southward from the railroad, which passes near its head, at Independence Station. Independence Springs, from which the valley derives its name, is the only water found.
The soil is gravelly, and unsuitable for farming, though it produces a fair crop of bunch grass. The valley extends to
A larger and more productive section of really the same valley, which extends into, and forms a part of
And under this name we will consider the three valleys—as they are all combined. From Humboldt or Cedar Pass, a spur, or rather a low range of hills extends far to the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south of the pass, the South Fork of the Humboldt canyons through this range, running to the north, west and east of another range until it reaches the main Humboldt at Gravelly Ford. Although the range first mentioned after having united with the western range south of the South Fork, extends much farther south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, which is situated in the south end of the valley, near to the South Fork. From this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, which may be taken as the length of the valley. The average width is 10 miles, from the western range mentioned to the foot-hills of Ruby Range, which hems in the valley to the east. A large portion of this valley is very productive, and is occupied by settlers, mostly discharged soldiers from Fort Ruby. In the southeastern portion of the valley is
Which are spoken of under the general term of Ruby Lake,—for in high water they are united, forming a brackish sheet of water about 15 miles long by seven in width, which has no outlet. It
)
Click to view
Page 121
is like Humboldt, Carson and Pyramid lakes in the Truckee Desert—merely a reservoir, where the floods accumulate to evaporate in the dry summer. The old stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, crossed the foot of the the valley at Ruby Station. About 20 miles east of the Ruby Range, lies
Another brackish pond with two small tributaries and no outlet, rather wider and about the same length as Ruby Lake. About half-way between Goshoot and the railroad, lies
circular pond about five miles in diameter. This pond possesses the same general characteristics as the others. With the exception of the valleys around these lakes and along the water-courses, the country is very uninviting in appearance, being little better than a desert.
In the eastern or Ruby range of mountains which border the valley, very rich silver mines have been discovered. They are southeast of the valley, and distant about 40 miles from Wells. Rock taken from the mines, and assayed in San Francisco, showed from $300 to $600 per ton. Other silver-bearing lodes have been discovered in this vicinity, and doubtless a large district will be prospected.
We now return to the road, and pursue our journey, Leaving Independence, we find the country broken and rolling until we arrive at
On the summit of Cedar Pass, and from thence we shall have down grade for many miles until we reach the desert lying between the Humboldt and Truckee rivers.
In general outline this pass resembles a rather rough, broken plateau, bent upward in the middle, forming a natural road bed from the desert to the Humboldt Valley. It was once covered with scrub cedar, which has been cut off for wood. To the northward, considerable wood is still Obtained in the mountains. About 15 miles to the north, a high, craggy peak marks the point where Thousand Spring Valley bends to the southward, and from its divide slopes down to the valley of the Humboldt. Elevation, 6,118 feet. Two miles beyond this station, we arrive at
A wood station, with an elevation of 5,978 feet. Six miles west of Cedar, the road has reached the head of a little valley, green and inviting in appearance, and the cars stop at
Elevation, 5,628 feet. Distance from Sacramento, 525 miles. This is one of the most noted points along the route—one possessing much interest to the tourist—though the station, of itself, occupies at present only a secondary position.
During the past fall and winter, some rich mineral discoveries have been made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of Wells, east of Clover Valley, and the Johnson & Latham Mining District has been organized. The veins are reported large and well defined, and rich in silver, copper and lead; also, large deposits of iron ore have been found. Smelting works have already been erected for the reduction of the argentiferous galena ores, which abound there, and as the district is not only well supplied with wood and water, but easy of access from the railroad, we have no doubt but that it will prove one of the most productive of bullion in the State.
The chief point of interest around the station is the celebrated
Around which the emigrants used to camp while they recruited their teams after their hard journey across the desert. They are situated in the midst of a beautiful meadow or valley, which from this point slopes away until it joins with the Humboldt or main valley. The
)
Click to view
Page 122
springs, or wells, about twenty in number, are scattered over this little valley; one, from which the company obtain their supply of water, being within 200 yards of the road, and about that distance west of the station. A house has been built over it, and the water is raised into the tanks by means of an engine.
These wells would hardly be noticed by the traveler unless his attention was called to them. Nothing marks their presence except the circle of rank grass around them. When standing on the bank of one of these curious springs, you look on a still surface of water, perhaps six or seven feet across, and nearly round. No current disturbs it; it resembles a well more than a natural spring, and you look around to see the dirt which was taken therefrom when the well was dug. The water, which is slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seeping off through the loose, sandy-loam soil of the valley. No bottom has been found to these wells, and they have been sounded to a great depth. Undoubtedly they are the craters of volcanoes, long since extinct, but which, at one time, threw up this vast body of lava, of which the soil of Cedar Pass is largely composed. The whole face of the country bears evidence of the mighty change which has been taking place for centuries. Lava, in hard, rough blocks; lava decomposed and powdered; huge blocks of granite and sandstone in the foot-hills, broken, shattered and thrown around in wild confusion, are some of the signs indicative of an age when desolation reigned supreme.
The valley in which the wells are situated is about five miles long by three wide, covered with a luxuriant growth of grass. It is excellent farming land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of vegetables, grain or grass. The low hills afford an extensive "range" and good grazing. The transition from the parched desert and barren upland, to these green and well-watered valleys is so sudden that it seems like the work of magic. One moment in the midst of desolation, the next in the midst of the green valleys, redolent with the aroma of the countless flowers which deck their breasts.
Leaving Humboldt Wells, we proceed down the valley for a few miles, when we enter the main
This is one of the richest agricultural and grazing valleys to be found in the State. As grazing land, it is unrivaled, and for agricultural purposes it is all that could be asked. Deep, black, loam soil, moist enough for all purposes without irrigation, covers the valley from 15 inches to two feet deep. This portion of the Humboldt valley of which we are speaking, extends for about 80 miles in length, with an average width of ten miles, nearly every acre included therein being of the quality described. From Osino canyon to the head waters of the valley it is unoccupied, with the exception of a few settlers who have taken up hay ranches below Halleck. The river abounds in fish and the foot-hills in deer and other game.
This stream rises in the Humboldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass. The general course of the river is westerly for about 250 miles, when it bends to the south, emptying into Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles from the Big Bend. It is a rapid stream for most of the distance, possessing few fords or convenient places for crossing. The railroad follows down its northern bank until it reaches 12 mile canon, about 16 miles west of Carlin. Here it crosses to the south side of the river and continues about 170 miles, when it crosses again and leaves the river, skirting the foothills in full view of the river and lake.
The main stream has many varieties of fish, and at certain seasons of the year its waters are a great resort for wild ducks and geese. Where it enters
)
Click to view
Page 123
Mule Team, loaded with Boilers and Machinery, weighing 54,000 pounds, en route from Elko to White Pine.
)
Click to view
Page 124
the lake, the volume of water is much less than it is 100 miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil through which it passes. Of the valleys bordering it, we shall speak separately, as each division is totally distinct in its general features. The "old emigrant road" can be distinctly traced along the river from its head to its source.
We now commence our journey down the stream, beginning at
A signal station, seven miles west of the Wells. Elevation, 5,482 feet. Passing on, we enter and cross
Which unites with the main valley of the Humboldt near this point; is about 60 miles long, with an average width of five miles, well-watered and very fertile.
Which winds through the valley, is a narrow, deep stream, abounding in many varieties of fish, among which are trout of an excellent quality. It rises about 70 miles to the northeast, in a spur of the Humboldt Mountains, near Humboldt canyon. The hills from which it rises are well-wooded, and abound in deer, bear, and smaller game. Crossing the creek on a Howe truss bridge, we pass on some six miles and come to the upper crossing of the Humboldt river, over a Howe truss bridge, and soon we arrive at
Thirteen miles west of Tulasco, a wood station. Elevation, 5,340 feet. We pass on down the valley for twelve miles, when we reach
Elevation, 5,227 feet. A freight station. At this point Government stores are left for
A military station on the opposite side of the river. Brevet Brig. Gen. J.I. Gregg, Colonel 8th Cavalry, commanding post; R.M. O'Reilly, Assistant Surgeon U.S.A., Post Surgeon, The garrison consists of company H, 8th Cav., and company I, 12th Infantry. At the time of writing, an order is issued to exchange the 8th Cavalry with the 3d Cavalry, now in New Mexico, but the precise distribution of the companies we are unable to learn before going to press with our book. At the foot of the mountain, about twelve miles distant from the station, can be seen some settlers' buildings, which are situated on the road to the post. The military post is hid from view by the intervening hills. It is situated on an elevated plateau, which lies partially behind the first range, debauching thence in a long upland, which extends some distance down the river. The valleys which lie among the hills, as well as this upland, are settled, and have proved very productive. Wheat, barley and vegetables are extensively cultivated, and a ready market is found along the railroad for the surplus crop.
Leaving Halleck, we continue down the valley four miles, when we arrive at
This station has nothing of interest attached to it. Elevation, 5,204 feet. Just after leaving the station we cross the
Of the Humboldt on a Howe truss bridge. This river, where it unites with the main stream, is about of equal size, perhaps larger. It rises about 100 miles to the north and receives as tributaries many small creeks and rivulets. The main stream is well stocked with various kinds of fish; and in the tributaries, trout of a fine quality are found in abundance.
Is from five to seven miles wide and covered with a heavy growth of grass. The quality of the soil is similar to that of the main valley, and, like that, is susceptible of a high state of cultivation. Wheat, barley, and vegetables of all kinds would yield handsome returns.
)
Click to view
Page 125
The seasons are long enough, and the absence of early and late frosts would secure a matured crop. Around the head of this valley are many smaller ones, each tributary stream having its own separate body of valley land. Some are perfect gems, nestled among the hills and almost surrounded by timber. Here game in abundance is found, quail, grouse, hare, deer and bear, and, sometimes, a "mountain lion." The tourist, angler, and hunter will find enough to occupy them pleasantly for a short stay should they choose to visit this region. The main and smaller valleys are unsettled and unclaimed, excepting that portion owned by the railroad company.
One remark more, which will apply to all the valleys named. As a range for stock they have no superior west of the Rocky Mountains. The winters are mild, snow rarely falling sufficiently deep to render it necessary to feed the stock. Wild cattle are found in the valleys and among the hills, which have never received any attention or care. If stock-raisers would turn their attention to this locality they would find a large field open to a remunerative enterprise. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the mountain sides produce the bunch-grass in profusion. Wherever the sage-brush grows rank, on the hill sides, the bunchgrass thrives equally as well.
We will now return to Peko, and continue down the valley of the main stream. Ten miles beyond the last station we arrive at
A signal station at the head of
Here the valley, suddenly ends. The northern range of the mountains sweeping down to the river bank, which now assumes a tortuous course, seeming to double back on itself in places, completely bewildering the traveler. Across the river the high peaks of the opposite chain rise clear and bold from the valley, contrasting strongly with the black, broken masses of shattered mountains among which we are winding in and out, seemingly, in an endless labyrinth. Now we wind around a high point, the rail lying close to the river's brink, and next we cross a little valley with the water washing against the opposite bluffs, half a mile away. A dense mass of willow covers the bottom lands, through which the river wanders as though it had neither the desire or ability to escape from its imprisonment. Around another rocky point, and we are in a wider portion of the canyon, with an occasional strip of valley land in view, when suddenly we emerge into a beantiful valley, across which we speed—the road curving around to the right—and soon the intervening distance is passed, and the long train stops at
Elevation 5,065 feet. From Omaha, 1,307 miles; from San Francisco, 607. At present this town occupies a prominent place, more so than any station on the Central east of Sacramento, which is owing to the White Pine trade and travel. The town formerly consisted of wood and canvass houses—though the latter class is rapidly being replaced by something more substantial. It has a two story brick court-house, 40x70 feet, a brick school-house, 25x65 feet, with modern improvements, and 90 scholars in attendance. The great difficulty in obtaining lumber, and the extremely high price of that article when delivered, from $50 to $100 per thousand, has been of serious detriment to the towns along the road, compelling them to build, in many instances, of very perishable and unsightly materials.
The town contains about 3,000 inhabitants. The railroad company has a very fine depot here, and three large freight houses—the largest along the line.
There are several hotels and restaurants in Elko, chief of which is the Cosmopolitan Hotel, before which cars stop for 30 minutes—this being a regular eating station.
)
Click to view
Page 126
Beachy Wines Co. run a daily line of coaches, Via Eureka, a thriving new mining town, to Hamilton, White Pine, 126 miles distant, and Hill Beachy runs a daily line to Mountain City in Cope district, and north to Idaho and the Boise country.
At this point we met with the old stage pioneer of the West, though he is not an old man by any means. He looks every inch the pioneer and rambling, restless, Western stage man. The Indians, among whom he has been running his stages for years, call him "bad medicine," And keep out of his way most of the time. We asked of Mr. Beachy what state he claimed as his home. "Well, said he, "I don't know. You see, I was born in Pennsylvania, and when I was ten years old I ran away and went to Ohio, and since then I have not lived anywhere. I have been on this coast as long as any of them, so I suppose I belong here." "You established stage lines through this section when you had troublesome times with the Indians, did you not?" "O yes. We had to fight our way at first; now they are quiet." "You made friends with them, didn't you?" "Made friends! Why yes; we made friends with them. We made them such large presents of lead, that they could not pack it away, and it has kept them busy watching their treasures ever since. That, sir, is the only way to make friends with these varmints. One part of a band will be talking peace with you, while the remainder will run off your stock; then when they have you at their mercy, your friendly part of the gang will lift your scalps. O yes! I believe in the friendship of the Indians—I do!" and he turned away to give directions to his agent.
The town presents a very active, business-like appearance, strongly reminding one of the flourishing mining towns in the early times of California. Occasionally we see a long train of mules "packed" with huge loads of merchandise for mining regions where freight cannot be conveyed on wagons. The amount of freight reshipped at this point—the total value of goods sold here by the leading houses, during a day or week—would astonish the denizens of many older and better regulated towns. The appearance of the main streets of Elko reminds us of the early days of Sacramento, when the "prairie schooner" was the only means of transporting heavy, freight to the mines. [See Illustration. -view image- ]
The Elko Independent, Democratic, and the Chronicle, Republican, both semiweekly, are published here.
Near town, are the warm springs, which are now attracting much attention. A hack plies between the hotel and the springs, making regular trips for the accommodation of visitors. The medicinal qualities of the water is highly spoken of.
Valuable silver mines exist in Cope District, about eighty miles due north of Elko. From the mines to Silver City, Idaho Territory, is about 70 miles.
It lies north of the headwaters of the North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee country. The section is well watered by rapid mountain streams, abounding in trout. The prospectors located several mill-sites near the mines, expecting to occupy them with mining mills at no very distant period, and two quartz mills are already in active operation. The rock from several lodes was packed on mules to Elko by the first prospectors, and from thence it was sent to San Francisco, and worked in a Hepworth pan, yielding at the rate of from $300 to $1,000 per ton. The results of this test had the effect to start more prospectors in that direction, and to insure the thorough prospecting and development of the mines already discovered, which now yield very rich and bid fair to prove exceedingly remunerative.
Other mines have been discovered and are now successfully worked.
)
Click to view
Page 127
There are other mineral-bearing districts which must necessarily become tributary to Elko. The Ruby Range and the range bordering the South Fork of the Humboldt possess mineral, and in several places good prospects have been obtained, and promising lodes located. It is evident that a large and rich mining section will be opened up ere long, of which Elko will remain the central point.
of the Humboldt, from the mouth of Osino canyon to the head of Five Mile canyon, cannot be ranked as among the best of the Humboldt bottom lands, though it is susceptible of cultivation to a considerable degree. But a narrow strip is meadow, the remainder being higher, gravelly land, covered with sagebrush and bunch grass. Without irrigation it is useless for agricultural purposes.
This place being the principal point where freight and passengers leave the cars for
We will take a hasty look at that famous country, which now is attracting such general attention. The district lies due south of Elko, distant about 125 miles by one route, 130 by the other. It is nearly due east of Virginia City and Gold Hill, where the first silver mining excitement occurred on the Pacific slope, and by many is supposed to be on the same range which produced the Comstock and other famous lodes. Possibly such is the case, though "ranges" have been terribly shaken about in this section of our commonwealth. Among the chief mines located and worked around Hamilton and Treasure City, are the Eberhardt, California, Hidden Treasure, Lady Bryan, Chloride Flat Co.'s mines, Silver Star, Yellow Jacket, and many others.
Several miles are in active operation, and more are being put up or on their way thither. Water and wood are scarce, the former especially so, the chief supply being obtained from wells.
The altitude of the country renders it very unpleasant to new-comers, especially if their lungs are weak.
The Eberhardt mine, which first attracted attention to this locality, was discovered in '66, but the great stampede of miners and speculators to that quarter did not take place until the winter and spring of '69. As far as prospected, the veins, in a majority of cases, are not regular, being broken and turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a regular angle and have solid walls. The Base Metal Range in this vicinity is attracting considerable attention at this time, and large numbers of smelting furnaces are being erected to reduce the ores into base bullion for shipment.
About four hundred people were at work in this district in February, '69, and now the population is estimated at 25,000. To give any correct idea of the magnitude of the mines or the appearance of the country, is out of the question.
on which stands Treasure City, is apparently one mass of ore, judging from the 175 claims which are located thereon. It is an isolated peak about 4,000 feet from base to summit, and 9,265 feet above the level of the sea. Along the eastern and western base of the hill, mountain ranges stretch away until they unite and form one chain on the north, but south of Treasure Hill they remain separated for about twelve miles, when they break away and leave a broad valley lying between them. These ranges, the Diamond and White Pine, are portioned off into mining districts, where many valuable mines have been located. The assays from the various lodes are highly flattering to the owners, but, in general, these assays are poor guarantees of what the rock will yield when worked by mill process. We remember when a friend of ours had an assay made of some rock in Gold Hill, when assays from new mines were of daily occurrence. The result was highly encouraging, the rock assaying a
)
Click to view
Page 128
trifle more in silver per ton than it would weigh if solid metal, beside $39.10 in gold. Considering that the specimen assayed was a fragment of a grindstone, the effort of the assayer was terrific.
The principal towns in the new district are Hamilton, Treasure City, and Shermantown.
The principal town, containing a population of about 3,000. It is situated on Treasure Hill, two and a half miles from Hamilton, in latitude 39 deg. 14 min. 8.38 sec., longitude, 115 deg. 27 min. 47 sec. It is 120 miles in a southerly direction from Elko, and 300 miles westerly from Salt Lake. Principal hotel, the International.
The county seat of White Pine, is situated at the base of Treasure Hill. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants, and is a lively, growing city. Principal hotel, Elbridge House.
The White Pine News, daily, and the Inland Empire, a daily journal, is published at this place, both live newspapers.
A rapidly improving mining town, where are located a large number of smelting furnaces, engaged reducing the base silver metal into bars of base bullion, for shipment to furnaces in the east or west, where they have better facilities for saving more of the metal. This Base Metal Range is very extensive, and from the sheltered situation of Shermantown, it must be the centre of an immense business. Instead of 20 furnaces, there is work for hundreds. The town contains from 1,500 to 2,000 inhabitants.
The Shermantown Telegraph is published here.
Of eastern Nevada lies about eighty-five miles to the southwest of White Pine. It is situated in one of the low foot-hills of the Shell Creek Range, which extends for about two miles into a branch of Steptoe valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 65 feet high, and presents no indications which would lead one to suspect that it guarded the entrance to an immense cavern. The entrance to the cave would hardly be noticed by travelers, it being very low and partially obscured. A rock archway, small and dark, admits the explorer, who must pass along a low passage for about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with a corresponding elevation of roof. Many of the chambers discovered are of great size; one, called the dancing hall, being about seventy, by ninety feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening into this chamber are several smaller ones, and, near by, a clear, cold spring of excellent water gushes forth from the rock. Further on are more chambers, the walls of which are covered with stalactites of varied styles of beauty. Stalagmites are found on the floors in great numbers. It is not known how far this cave extends, but it has been explored for 4,000 feet, when a deep chasm prevented further exploration.
The Indians in this vicinity have a curious fear of this place, and cannot be tempted to venture any distance within its haunted recesses. They have a legend that "heap" Indians went in once for a long way and none ever returned. But one who ventured in many moons ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss of those who accompanied him, and he is now styled "Cave Indian." According to the legend, he ventured in with some of his tribe, and traveled until he came to a beautiful stream of water, where dwelt a great many Indians, who had small ponies and beautiful squaws. Though urged to stay with this people, "Cave" preferred to return to sunlight. Watching his chances when all were asleep, he stole away, and, after great suffering, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the cave, but his people still live in the bowels of the earth.
The Indians firmly believe the story, and will not venture within the darkness. Another story is current among the peo-
)
Click to view
Page 129
ple who live near by, which is, that the Mormons were once possessors of this cave, and at the time when they had the rupture with the United States Government used it as a hiding place for the plate and treasures of the Church and the valuables of the Mormon elders. The existence of the cave was not known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew of it, until '66.
Before returning to the Railroad, let us make a few remarks regarding the mining features about the country at which we have been glancing. In the latter part of the summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mariposa in California crossed the Sierra Nevada mountains via Yo Semite to Mono Lake, then in Utah, but now in that part of the country, set off to form Nevada. For three years the party worked placer mines and other gold along the various canyons and gulches extending eastward from the Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting, further north, and who discovered Comstock Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the discovery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye and Humboldt counties, and in the adjoining territory of Idaho, was the result. The great "unexplored desert" on the map was avoided until 1865 and 1866, when parties began to branch out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz and fine timber land extending along a series of parallel valleys from the Humboldt to the Colorado river. Several New York companies became interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20 Stamp Mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where Treasure City now stands, to work veins in the Diamond range. Across the valley opposite Newark, White Pine mountain rises 10,285 feet. Here the "Monte Christo" mill was erected, at which a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen of better "nappias" than had yet been discovered, and, by his guidance, the rich mines discovered at Treasure Hill, and the "Hidden Treasure" mine were located and recorded, on the 14th of September, 1867. But aside from the production of mineral, along these mountain ranges, another source of wealth exists in the valleys extending through Nevada and Utah. We refer to that branch of business which has been gradually increasing, one which will bring a large revenue to the settlers along these valleys, in stock-raising. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready market in the mining districts and westward to Sacramento and San Francisco.
Passing down the valley from Elko, dotted with the hamlets of the rancher, for about nine miles, we come opposite
Of the Humboldt. This stream rises about 100 miles to the southeast. It canyons through Ruby Mountains, and then follows down the eastern side of one of the numerous ranges, which, under the general name of the Humboldt Mountains, intersect the country.
For portions of the distance, there is fine valley land along the stream, ranging from one to seven miles wide. Taken as a body, it is inferior to either the main or the North Fork valleys, still much good grazing land can be obtained, as well as land adapted to cultivation.
An unimportant side-track, 12 miles from Elko. Elevation, 4,981 feet. Leaving Moleen, we find the valley widening, and with a changed appearance. The meadow lands are broad and green, extending over most of the valley; on the right, the bluffs are high, and covered with luxuriant bunch grass. Soon we arrive at
Through this canyon the river runs quite rapidly. Its clear waters sparkling in the sunlight as they speed along. The narrow strip of meadow lands is at times almost crowded out by the low
)
Click to view
Page 130
hills, which creep down to the water's edge.
The scenery along this canyon is hardly surpassed by the bold and varied panorama presented to our view along the base of the snow-capped mountains, through which the river and railroad have forced their way. Soon after entering the canyon, we pass several isolated towers of conglomerate rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 feet. Leaving this canyon, we find
Another strip of good farming land, about 20 miles long by four wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's Creek. Among the foot-hills of the Owyhee Range are many beautiful, fertile valleys, well watered by mountain streams, waiting only the advent of the settler to transform them into productive farms. Timber is plenty in the ravines and on the hill-sides, sufficient for the wants of a large population.
Passing on, we cross
Which empties into the Humboldt about one mile above Carlin. This stream is named for a beautiful Scotch girl, whose parents stayed here for a time, while "recruiting their stock," in the old times when the early emigrants toiled up the river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, about 80 miles to the northward.
The valley, through which the stream flows is from three to five miles wide and very fertile. It extends to the base of the mountains, about 70 miles, and is unsettled. Judge Prescott has surveyed and located a toll road, via this valley to Idaho Territory. The stream affords excellent trout fishing, and game of various kinds abound on the hills bordering the valley.
Eleven miles west from Moleen. Elevation, 4,903 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,330 miles; from San Francisco, 584 miles. The town is composed of adobe, wood and canvas buildings, and contains about 900 inhabitants. It has several hotels and eating-houses, chief of which is the Railroad House, before which the trains stop. Road completed to this point, Dec. 20th, 1868. The company have located the offices of Humboldt Division here. Also,
At this place. They are built of wood and consist of a round-house, machine car, and blacksmith shop. The round-house has 16 stalls. The machine shop is 82 by 130, car shop 60 by 140, and blacksmith shop 40 by 69 feet.
The surrounding country is bountifully supplied with wood and water, and connected with Carlin by a good wagon road of easy grade.
A new stage line has been established from Carlin to Bull Run, via Independence Valley and Maggie Creek, to the famous gold mines of Tuscarora.
A line of six horse stages has been established by Messrs. Payne & Palmer, running to Railroad District, Mineral Hill and Eureka, connecting there with stages for Hamilton and Austin. The route crosses the river about one mile west of Carlin, upon a good substantial bridge, and through a natural pass into PINE VALLEY; is favorably located, not only on account of the absence of low, alkali soil, but on account of the abundance of grass and water found along the route.
This valley is about 40 miles long by seven wide: is good agricultural land, well watered by Pine creek, a never falling stream, which traverses its entire length. Along this stream, and on the surrounding hills, vast quantities of wood are obtained for the use of the road.
Proceeding up the valley 30 miles, at the first station, the road crosses Sulphur Range, by Berry's Pass, a low break in the hills; and about 10 miles beyond the first station, the road enters
This valley is about 40 miles in length.
)
Click to view
Page 131
Donner Lake.—Boating Party. See page 158.
)
Click to view
Page 132
Its greatest width is about 10 miles. It is watered by numerous mountain springs, but has no running streams, and affords excellent grazing. The road runs diagonally across the valley until it reaches the base of Diamond Range, at Treffern's station, on the old stage road from Austin to Hamilton. Thence the road proceeds up Simpson's creek, crossing Diamond Range, and follows down Pinto creek, enters Gillson's valley at Pinto station, thence by the Pancake road to Hamilton.
The road from here north, up the valley of Maggie's creek, is now open, and arrangements are completed for the establishment of a line of stages from this place to Independence Valley, Bull Run and Cope, extending on to Idaho. This will make those promising mining localities easy of access from the railroad; and there has already, quite a quantity of lumber and other material for working the placer "diggings," in Independence Valley, gone forward this season.
Carlin claims her share in the trade of the Goose Creek Mining District, which will be reached by the toll-road up Maggie's creek, before mentioned. By the White Pine road the mines of Sulphur Range, Ruby Range and Diamond Range are brought in close connection with the town. The White Pine District will also be open to trade, which will give this place an equal standing with Elko, in point of freight and travel, to and from these mines.
Several new mining districts have been organized south of here, the past season, among which are the Eureka, Spring Valley, Newark, Mineral Hill and Railroad Districts; some of which, in extent and richness, bid fair to surpass even those of White Pine. Railroad District, the last organized, is only about 15 miles south of Carlin, and abounds in rich and extensive veins of silver, copper and galena ores, as well as of iron. One smelting furnace is nearly completed, and arrangements have been made to erect others in the district as soon as possible. There are extensive veins Which are rich in galena and silver, and parties who are best informed upon the subject are sanguine that the yield of base bullion from this district, the coming season, will be very large. Mineral till District, 40 miles south of Carlin, was discovered July, 1869, since which time considerable quantities of ore have been sent to Austin and other points for reduction, yielding from $300 to $600 per ton in silver. Arrangements are, nearly completed for the erection of two quartz mills in this district, early this spring. The village of Mineral Hill now contains nearly 500 inhabitants, with hotels, express offices, assay office, &c.
While such developments and industry have been visible south of here, the rich mineral country lying north, and extending to the waters of the Owyhee, has not been entirely neglected, and has rewarded the labors of the sturdy "prospector" by the discoveries of rich placer gold mines, and veins of rich silver ores. The placer gold mines of Independence Valley are some 60 miles north of here, while the silver mining districts of Bull Run and Cope are from 75 to 80 miles distant. These districts are already attracting the attention of experienced miners and capitalists, and will, no doubt, richly reward judicious investments in, and practical working of, them, the coming season.
This is a little creek which rises three miles north of Carlin, entering the Humboldt river at that point. It rises in a beautiful lakelet, nestled among the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of fine valley land. The valley of the stream, and that portion surrounding its headwaters, is occupied by settlers.
Leaving Carlin, we proceed down the river, the green meadows continuing fair and wide. Now, the sloping hills give place to lofty mountains, which close in on either hand, shutting
To be well armed and ready for a fight is "to be heeled."
)
Click to view
Page 133
out the valley. From the appearance of this mountain range, one would suppose that it had extended across the valley at one time, forming a vast lake of the waters of the river. Then some mighty convulsion of nature rent the solid wall asunder, forming a passage for the waters which wash the base of cliffs which are from 500 to 1,500 feet high. This place is generally known as
[See illustrations. -view image- -view image- ] The Palisades, or the Twelve Mile Canyon. Although it does not possess similar points of interest with Echo and Weber canyons, yet in many particulars the scenery is equally grand. The absence of varied coloring may be urged against its claims to equality with those places, but on the other hand its bleak, bare, brown walls possess a majesty and gloomy grandeur which coloring could not improve. In passing down this canyon, we seem to be passing between two walls, which threaten to close together ere we shall gain the outlet. The river rolls at our feet, a rapid, boiling current, tossed from side to side of the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts to break away its prison walls. The walls in places have crumbled, and large masses of crushed rocks slope down to the river brink. Seams of iron ore and copper-bearing rock break the monotony of color, showing the existence of large deposits of these materials among these brown, old mountains. Now we pass "Red Cliff," which rears its battered frontlet, 1,000 feet above the water. A colony of swallows have taken possession of the rock, and built their curious nests upon its face. From out their mud palaces they look down upon us, no doubt wondering about the great monster rushing past, and after he has disappeared, gossiping among themselves of the good old times when his presence was unknown in the canyon. Now, we pass "Maggie's Bower," a brown arch on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We could not see much bower, unless it was the left bower, for we left it behind us. But we thought we should pity Maggie if she had to sit in that bower and wait for lovers.
){kind=link}
){kind=link}
Nine miles from Carlin, we arrive at
Elevation, 4,840. Woodruff and Enno have put on a new stage line to White Pine, via Mineral Hill, 30 miles; Eureka, 85 miles; and Hamilton City, 115 miles. Passing on to the west, one of the most noted points in the canyon is on the opposite side of the river, and is called the
This a perpendicular rock, probably 1,500 feet high, rising from the water's edge. In a cleft on the topmost peak are the remains of a gigantic bird's nest. What sort of birds made their eyrie here, we do not pretend to know. From appearances, they belonged to an extinct species, or possibly to the condor family; the nest looks to be four or five feet across, built of brush—some of the sticks being quite large. Let us suppose that it forms a connecting link between the misty past and the busy present, and speculate on the age when gigantic birds existed; when the clear waters of the Humboldt were but filthy ooze; when the monsters of the early days held high carnival along the boiling, slimy Humboldt river. Then the monster birds sat, in their eyrie, and pounced down upon some unlucky dozen-legged monster with a head just three times the length of its boneless body, and after depositing its unwieldy carcass on the rocks by their nest, feasted on it at their leisure. We may suppose all this, though these unsightly creatures which learned men tell of have passed away, and neither the railroad or the missionaries had aught to do with their leaving.
While we have been speculating, the cars have been rushing down the stream passing the towering bluffs and castellated rocks, which at first view look like some old brown castle, forsaken by its founders, and left to ruin, desolation and decay.
)
Click to view
Page 134
We cross the river on a fine Howe truss bridge, and from this point we shall keep on the southern side of the stream until we near Humboldt Lake, when we cross it again, and for the last time. The rocks are less lofty now, and break away from the river less abruptly. We emerge from the canyon at
A flag station, ten miles west of Palisade. Elevation, 4,766 feet. Passing on, we enter a more open country, with strips of meadow along the river's brink. Near this point, is where the powder magazine of the railroad company exploded. While building the road through the canyon in '68, the company had a magazine in the rocks by the road side. By some means the powder was exploded, killing and wounding several of the laborers.
West of the river, and at the point on the opposite side, we notice a peculiar formation not seen elsewhere in the canyon. Where the road is cut through these points, we find them to consist of gravel, sand and cement, having all the appearances of gold-bearing, gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water wash, and not caused by volcanic wear. Fine layers of sand, from one to five feet thick, are interspersed through the gravel, showing where the water rested and the sediment settled.
Near Cluro, the "old emigrant road" crosses the river at
This was one of the most noted points on the river in early days. Then, the canyon through which we have just passed was impassable. The long lines of emigrant wagons could not pass through the mighty chasm, but were obliged to turn and toll over the mountains until they could descend into the valley again. Coming to this point on the south side of the river, they crossed and followed up a slope of the opposite hills; thence along the table-land, and from thence to the valley below. A few would leave the river lower down, and bear away to the south, but the road was long and rough before they reached the valley above the canyon. There were, and now are, other fords on the river, lower down, but none were as safe as this. With sloping gravelly banks, and a hard gravel bottom, it offered superior advantages to the emigrant. Hence, it became a noted place—the point to which the westward bound emigrant looked forward with great interest. Here was excellent grazing for their travel-worn teams. Owing to these considerations, large bodies of emigrants were often encamped here for weeks. At times the river would be too high, and they would wait for the torrent to subside. The Indians—Shoshones—knew this also, and many a skirmish took place between them and their white brothers, caused by mistaken ideas regarding the ownership of the emigrant's stock.
Connected with this place is an incident which, for the honor of the men who performed the Christian act, we will relate. Near to the Ford is a low hillock surmounted by a cross, which marks (to the left)
In the early times spoken of, a party of emigrants from Missouri were encamped here, waiting for the water to subside. Among them were many families, women and children, who were accompanying their protectors to the land of gold. While here, the daughter of the train-master, an estimable young lady of 18 years, fell sick, and despite the watchful care and loving tenderness of friends and kindred, her pure spirit floated into that unknown mist which enwraps the earth, dividing the real from the ideal, the mortal from the immortal. Her friends reared an humble head-board to her memory, and, in course of time—among the new life opening to them on the Pacific slope—the young girl's fate and grave were alike forgotten by all but her immediate relatives. When the advance guard of the Central railroad—the graders and culvert men—came to Gravelly Ford,
)
Click to view
Page 135
they found the lone grave and the fast decaying head-board. The sight awoke the finer feelings of their nature and aroused their sympathies, for they were men, these brown, toll-stained laborers.
The "culvert men" (masons) concluded that it was not consistent with Christian usage to leave a grave exposed and undefended from the incursion of beasts of prey. With such men to think was to act, and in a few days the lone grave was enclosed with a solid wall and a cross—the sacred emblem of immortality—took the place of the old head-board. In the day when the final reckoning between these men and the recording angel is adjusted, we think that they will find a credit for that deed which will offset many little debit in the ledger of good and evil. Perhaps a fair spirit above may smile a blessing on their lives in recompense of the noble deed. Bare the head reverently in passing this grave—not alone in honor of her who is buried here, but also in honor of that higher spirit of humanity which recognizes in a stranger's grave an object too sacred to be passed lightly by, and pays to it the tribute of respect due the last resting-place of the dead.
Leaving Gravelly Ford, we proceed down the river, crossing narrow patches of meadow land winding around the base of the low hills, untill we reach a broader valley, across which the road runs on an embankment. The valley is green and inviting and the culverts in the road bed are evidences that there is plenty of water in it at times. It is called Hot Spring Valley, and is about six miles long by one broad. It lies about four miles below Cluro, and extends southeastward. Now, if we look up this valley, we perhaps behold a column of steam which indicates the presence of the celebrated
If you do not behold the steam, and the springs are not always in active operation, you will behold a long yellowish, red line, stretching for a full half mile around a barren hill-side. From this line the sulphuric wash descends the hill-side, desolating everything in its course, its waters escaping through the bogs of the valley we are now crossing. From this line, around the hill side, escapes at intervals, columns of steam and, at times, of boiling muddy water, which flows down the hill side causing that reddish waste you see yonder. At times all is quiet; then come little puffs of steam, then long and frequent jets, which often shoot 90 feet high. And, oh! aint the water hot? Woe to the unlucky hombre who kneels down to quench his thirst at one of these quiet, harmless-looking springs. Phew, the skin of his mouth is gone, and oh, what a vast amount of energetic language is hurled at the smiling, placid spring, which suddenly resents the idea of being damned, and to show the utter absurdity of the attempt suddenly sends a column of spray, steam and muddy sulphur water 20 or 30 feet into the air, and all is still again. There are about 100 of these bubbling curiosities around the hill, their united waters forming quite a brook, which wanders among the bogs and fens of the valley until it reaches the river some five miles away.
Across the river to the northward can be seen the long, unbroken slopes which stretch away until they are lost in that cold blue line—the Idaho Mountains—which rise against the northern sky. Behind that gray old peak, which is barely discernible, the head-waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt break away when starting on its journey for the main river. Farther to the left, and nearer, from among that darker clump of hills, Maggie's creek finds its source. While looking at these scenes, we have passed through Copper canyon, and arriven at
Eight miles west of Cluro. Elevation, 4,690. feet. The Cortes mines and mills are situated about 35 miles south of this station, with which they are connected by a good road. At this point, the Red Range throws a spur nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. It looks as
)
Click to view
Page 136
though the spur extended clear across at one time, damming up the waters of the river, as at the Palisades. The waterwash far up the hill side is in evidence of the theory that such was once the case, and that the waters cut this narrow gorge, through which they speed along, unmindful of the mighty work done in former years, when the resistless current "forced a highway to the sea," and drained a mighty lake—leaving in its place green meadows.
Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing line between the Shoshones and the Piutes, two tribes of Indians, who seemed to be created for the express purpose of worrying emigrants, stealing stock, eating grasshoppers, and preying on themselves and everybody else. The Shoshones are very degraded Indians, and like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old, their hand is against every man, and every man's hand is (or ought to be) against them. At this point, nature has so fortified the entrance of the valley, that a handful of determined rangers could hold the entrance against any force the savages could bring against them. The term Be-o-wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its significance.
Leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass through the gate, and winding along by the hillside, we cross a fill over the low meadows, which here are very narrow. In places the short elbows of the tortuous stream wash the rock-fills and slopes on which rests the road bed. The "bottom" is broad, but is covered with willows, with the exception of the narrow meadows spoken of. Amid these willows, the stream winds and twists about, through innumerable sloughs and creeks, as though undecided whether to leave this shady retreat for the barren plains below. Perhaps the traveler will see a flock of pelicans disporting in the waters on their return from their daily fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. These birds, at certain seasons of the year, are to be found here and along the river for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. They build their nests in those willow islands and rear their young undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot penetrate this swampy, treacherous fastness. Every morning the old birds can be seen taking their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they load themselves with fish, returning towards night, to feed their young and secrete themselves in their hiding places. Passing along by these, willow islands and slips of meadow, we find ourselves at
Ten miles west of Be-o-wa-we. Elevation, 4,636 feet. On our right is a long, bold mountain, which rises up clear and sharp from the river's brink. It seems near, but between us and its southern base is a wide bottom land and the river, which here really "spreads itself." We saw the same point when emerging from Be-o-wa-we, or "the gate," and it will continue in sight for many miles. It is known as
It is so called from an Indian fight, which took place in this part of the country some years ago, but not on this mountain of which we are speaking.
There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same general name. This range, being the most prominent, deserves a passing notice. It lies north of the river, between the Owyhee Range on the north and the Reese River Mounains on the south. Its base is washed by the river its entire length, from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an almost unbroken surface and even altitude the entire distance. In places it rises in bold bluffs, in others it slopes away from base to summit, but in each case the same altitude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet high, the top or summit appearing to be table-land. Silver and copper mines have been prospected with good results.
Behind this range are wide valleys, which slope away to the river at either end of the range, leaving it comparatively isolated.
Opposite of Shoshone Point, Rock
)
Click to view
Page 137
creek empties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises about 40 miles to the northward and is bordered by a beautiful valley about four miles wide. The stream is well stocked with fish, among which are the mountain trout. In the country around the head waters of the stream is found plenty of game of various kinds, including deer and bear.
Copper mines of vast size and great richness are found in the valley of Rock creek, and among the adjoining hills. Whenever the copper interest becomes of sufficient importance to warrant the opening of these mines, this section will prove one of great importance.
Leaving Shoshone we pursue our way down the river, the road leading back from the meadow land and passing along an upland, covered with sagebrush. The hills on our left are smooth and covered with a good coat of bunch grass, affording most excellent pasturage for stock, summer and winter. There are springs of good water in the canyons, where is also obtained considerable wood, pine and cedar. Now we find broad meadows again, and here we see the huge hay-stacks and piles of baled hay, awaiting transportation. We pass by them and the cars stop at
Eleven miles west of Shoshone. Elevation, 4,548 feet. This was formerly a regular eating station and the distributing point for Austin and the Reese River country, now only a signal station. There are not many buildings around the station at present, though there is plenty of room for them.
Lies on the north side of the river, nearly opposite this station. It is about 60 miles long by eight wide, very fertile and thickly settled.
The northern division of Paradise valley, is about twenty miles long and five wide. In general features it resembles the other, the whole comprising one of the richest farming sections in the State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated in the head or the valley, and other small towns have sprung up at other points. The settlers have two grist and several saw mills on
A clear, cold mountain stream, which rises in the Owyhee mountains and flows through the valleys to the Humboldt. Salmon trout of enormous size are found in the stream and its tributaries. Bear, deer, silver-gray foxes, and other game abound on the hills which border the valley.
From Argenta to Paradise and Eden valleys, a considerable freight is taken by ox-teams, also to the Owyhee country. The road crosses the drives by a ford near town, and after leaving the valley, follows a spur of the mountains until the summit is obtained.
Of the Battle Mountain Mining District are extensive and rich. They have already attracted the attention of capitalists, and an English company have purchased several copper claims, and are engaged in opening and working them, shipping their ore to Swansea, England, via San Francisco. Large quantities of copper, galena and silver ores are being shipped from the mines in this district to San Francisco for reduction or sale, resulting in profit to those engaged in the business.
Large beds of clay, of which excellent fire brick can be made, are found in many places here. Nearly every cut through the gravel points shows large deposits of it.
Leaving Argenta, we proceed down the valley, keeping upon the sage land. The river course is marked by green meadows, fringed with willows, and occasionally the house of a settler can be seen on its banks. Clumps of wild
)
Click to view
Page 138
rye and bunch grass are scattered over it at intervals, marking the places where moisture exists.
Elevation, 4,508 feet. A regular eating station. Passengers who are desirous of visiting the neighboring mines, will leave the cars. Freight destined for the mines is also left here. This is now the distributing point for the Battle Mountain, Galena and Copper Canyon mining camps in the mountains just south of here, as well as for Austin, and the Reese River country.
Blossom & Wise run a daily line of stages from here to Battle Mountain mines, 7 miles, and Galena, 12 miles; while Cope & Burnett run a daily line to Austin, distance 90 miles.
The principal raining districts tributary to Battle Mountain Station, lie to the southward. In connection with them we will speak of the general features of the county in which these districts are located.
Is one of the northeastern counties of Nevada, and noted for its mines. The Toiyabe Mountains extend north and south through the county, bearing many and rich veins of silver ore. Many mining districts have been laid off and prospected with very flattering results. The general character of the ore is refractory, and requires desulphurization. The lodes, as a general thing, are small, especially in the Reese River district, but more valuable on that account, as the mineral is more concentrated.
The county seat of Lander, and the principal town in this section, is located near the summit of the Toiyabe Range 90 miles south of the railroad, and contains about 2,500 inhabitants. It is connected by stage with Hamilton, Cortez, Belmont and intervening towns The Reese River Reveille, daily, is published at this place. The principal mining district of the county contains the towns of Austin and Clifton, and is called the
Located 10th of May, '62. Silver ore was first discovered in this district by W.M. Talcott, in May, 1862. At that time he was engaged in hauling wood from the hill-side, where the city of Austin now stands, to the stage station at Jacob's Springs, when he discovered a metal-bearing quartz vein. He carried some of the rock to the station, where it was examined and found to contain silver. The discoverer located the vein, giving it the name of Pony. The district was laid off, enclosing an area of 70 miles east and west by 20 miles north and south, to which the name of Reese River was given. A code of laws was established and W.M. Talcott elected Recorder.
Prospectors flocked in, and the country was pretty thoroughly prospected during '62 and '63. Many veins were located, some of them proving very valuable. Mills were erected at different points, and from that time forward the district has been in a prosperous condition. The district, as originally mapped out, exists no longer, having been subdivided into several smaller ones.
Other districts, including Washington, Eureka, Kinsley, Cortez and others, located in this section of the State, containing noted veins of silver and copper ores, are tributary to Austin in trade. This section of the State is now the most prosperous mining portion. White Pine, Reese River and other noted mining localities are located within easy distance of the railroad, by which they are now supplied with machinery, merchandise, etc., at rates far below the cost of such articles in less favored localities. The result of this has been the introduction of more and better machinery, the reduction in cost of milling ores, and the opening and working of veins of lower grade ores, which could not be profitably worked when high milling prices ruled.
)
Click to view
Page 139
Great American Canyon. See page 165.
)
Click to view
Page 140
We will now leave the Reese River mines and return to Battle Mountain. The opening in the lower part of the valley, which here joins with the Humboldt, is
It is very diversified in feature, being very wide at some points—from seven to ten miles—and then dwindling down to narrow strips of meadow or barren sand. Some portions of the valley are susceptible of cultivation, and possess an excellent soil. Other portions are barren sand and gravel wastes, on which only the sage brush flourishes. This valley is also known by old emigrants as "Whirlwind Valley," and passengers will frequently see columns of dust ascending skywards. Reese River, which flows through this valley, rises to the south, 180 to 200 miles distant. It has many tributaries, which find their source in the mountain ranges that extend on either side of the river its entire length. It sinks in the valley about 20 or 30 miles from where the valley opens on the Humboldt. During the winter and spring floods the waters reach the Humboldt, but only in very wet times. Near where the waters sink was fought the celebrated
between the Indians and whites—settlers and emigrants—which gave the general name of Battle Mountain to these ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the emigrants and settlers in this region, who banded themselves together and gave chase. They overtook them at this point and the fight commenced. From point to point, from rock to rock, down to the water's edge they drove the redskins, who, finding themselves surrounded, fought with the stubbornness of despair. When night closed in the settlers found themselves in possession of their stock and a hard fought field. How many Indians emigrated to the happy hunting grounds of the spirits no one knew, but from this time forward the power of the tribe was broken. It is supposed that a hundred or more braves went off in pursuit of shadows, as they were never more seen. The following spring hunters found many skeletons in the hills, supposed to be those of the wounded braves who crawled away during the fight.
The Diamond, Dun Glen, Grass Valley and Humboldt mining districts are tributaries to Battle Mountain station. In the Grass Valley and Diamond district are three ten-stamp mills, which are constantly employed. Grass Valley, which lies between the Sonoma and Dun Glen Ranges, has two mills in operation, and more in course of construction.
from which the district derives its name, is about five miles wide, and extends from the opening of Reese river to Humboldt lake, some 50 miles to the westward. The hills near the station are separated from the main range by this valley, leaving them isolated, Grass Valley bordering their southern and eastern sides, while the main valley of the Humboldt encircles their northern and western base.
In the upper end of Grass Valley are several hot springs, strongly impregnated with sulphur and other minerals, but they attract no particular attention, being too common to excite curiosity.
On leaving the station we skirt the base of the mountains, leaving the river far to our right. We are now in the widest part of the valley, about opposite the
After passing the palisades the river inclines to the south for about 30 miles. when it sweeps away to the north, along the base of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further—then turning nearly due south, it follows that direction until it discharges its waters in Humboldt lake, about 50 miles by the river course from the great elbow, forming a vast semicircle, washed by its waters for three fourths of the circumference. This vast area of land, or most of it—comprising many thousand acres of level upland, bordered by green meadows—is susceptible of cultivation
)
Click to view
Page 141
when irrigated. The sage brush grows luxuriantly, and where the alkali beds do not appear the soil produces a good crop of bunch grass. The road takes the short side of the semicircle, keeping close to the foot of the isolated Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of the river, behind the Battle Mountain range, are several valleys, watered by the mountain streams, and affording a large area of first class farming land. Chief among these is
watered by the river of that name. The arable portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, ranging in width from three to seven miles. It is a fine body of valley land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of grain, grass or vegetables. The hills which enclose it afford excellent pasturage. Timber of various qualities—spruce and pine predominating—is found in the gulches and ravines of the mountains. Game of different kinds is abundant. The Indians claim this country, and would doubtless worry small parties of settlers.
which flows through this valley, is a large stream, rising in the St. Rosa hills, of the Owyhee range, about 150 miles distant. From its source the general course of the river is due south for about 80 miles, when it turns and runs due west, until it reaches Mud Lake. During the summer but little, if any, of its waters reach that place, being absorbed by the barren plain which lies between the foot hills and the Humboldt River. Near the head waters of Quinn's River the
or Antelope, rises and flows due north for about 50 miles, when it empties its waters into the Owyhee river. The head waters of the streams which run from the southern slope of the Owyhee mountains are well supplied with salmon and trout, and other varieties of fish. Quail, grouse, and four-footed game are abundant in the valleys and timbered mountains. Near the settlements the Indians are friendly, but the hunter and prospector must watch them as soon as he leaves the protection of the towns.
Returning to the station, we can see evidences of mining and prospecting in various places to the right, where the hills come near the road; we can also see the opening to
nearly opposite the station, and about six miles distant, in the western point of the hills which mark the entrance to Reese River Valley. It is one of the leading mines of Battle Mountain district, and the only one that has as yet been fully opened and worked. On the side of the second range, about four miles to the left of the road, the main shaft works are located. The "dump," or deposit of waste rock, can be plainly seen from the road. The mine is said to be very rich and extensive. The vein, when first prospected, was not supposed to be so rich, owing to the peculiar character of the rock. A mill test was had of 27 tons, which netted the prospectors a little over $5,000, after paying $130 per ton expenses.
In the same range of hills, beside the Little Giant are to be found the Buena Vista, Montrose, Eldorado, St. Helena, Caledonia and many more mines. The nearest point to enter this mining range from the road is opposite the Little Giant mine, seven miles from Battle Mountain. The part of the valley through which runs the road is covered with sage brush, and occasional beds of alkali. The valley is very broad, with the river on the further side, over against the base of Battle Mountain.
Leaving Battle Mountain station we pass along over the sage brush plateau for 14 miles without finding much of interest. The hills present the same general appearance on our left, while the opposite side of the valley is still marked by the hills which encircle the outer arc of the Big Bend.
INFANTRY soldiers are called by the Indians "heep walk men."
INDIANS call Major Powell's boats "water ponies."
LONG trains of cars are called by the Indians "heep wagon, no hoss."
"HASH HOUSES"—roadside, restaurants. Waiters are called "hash slingers."
TELEGRAPH operators are called "lightning shovers."
)
Click to view
Page 142
A flag station, unimportant and uninteresting.
Nineteen miles from Battle Mountain. Elevation, 4,421 feet. This place was once an old trading post, strongly fortified against Indian attacks. The stone house stands at the foot of an abrupt hill, by the side of a spring of excellent water. The comb of the ridge is divided lengthwise by parallel ridges of rock, which form a deep chasm on the crest. From the stone house, a retreat to this gorge was easy, being only about 100 yards distnant, and once there 20 men could successfully defend themselves against all the Indians in the country. A living spring in the gorge furnishes water, and there is but one inlet or outlet, and that is by the house at the foot of the hill. Soon after leaving the station, by looking away to the south six miles, can be seen another of the many "hot springs" which abound in the "Great Basin." Our description on page 135 will appropriately describe this one. We leave the old stone house and continue along the base of the hills, to the right the bottom lands are from 8 to 10 miles wide; the soil is sand and strong alkaline, covered with sage brush and grease wood. Thirteen miles and we arrive at
A flag station, unimportant to the traveler. Elevation, 4,375 feet. After leaving the station the bluffs draw close and high on each side, with the river on our right, with now and then a narrow strip of meadow land passing through and over deep cuts and fills for three miles the canyon, which widens into a valley, and we reach
eleven miles. Elevation 4,387 feet. This is a freight and telegraph station of considerable importance—in the prospective—it being in the Gold Run mining district, where rich silver miles have been discovered.
On the left hand side the Humboldt Range has been well prospected, with favorable results. Three miles from this point is the Golconda mill—water power, eight stamps. This range is a part of the Reese River range, and contains, besides the Golconda, the Shepherdson, Cumberland, Home Ticket, Register, and many others. The district was discovered and organized in October, 1867.
On the north side of the river, east of this station, and distant only about 12 miles, some rich discoveries of silver and copper ore have recently been made, but the claims have not yet been "prospected" enough to establish their extent and value.
Near Golconda are more of those curious springs which are found scattered over the Humboldt valley. Not purposing to describe more of them, we will give some general theories which we have heard advanced regarding them. Some contend that the water escapes from the regions of eternal fires, which are supposed to be ever burning in the centre of our little globe. Others assert that it is mineral in solution with the water which causes the heat. Again, some irreverent persons suggest that this part of the country is but the roof of a peculiar place, of which many have heard, though we have no good authority for saying they have ever been there.
Leaving Golconda we proceed on our way, while the same general features of landscape appear—a wide sage brush plain, with the meadows beyond. We pass
a signal station, eleven miles west of Golconda. Elevation, 4,315 feet. Passing on down the valley we skirt the hills on our left, drawing still closer, in some places the spurs reaching to the track. On our left is an opening in the hills, from whence a canyon opens out near the road side. It is about five miles long, containing living springs.
On the plains, bacon is called "sow-belly.
Indian tents, "wig wams;" lodges, "tepees," "wickeeups."
TEAMSTERS on the plains call a meal a "grub pile."
)
Click to view
Page 143
Here were discovered the first mines in this part of Nevada. In the spring of '60, Mr. Barbeau, who was herding stock for Coperning, discovered the silver ore, and from this beginning, the prospecting was carried on with vigor. There have been located the Silver Chord, Cuba No. 1, White Pine, Starlight, Calacareas, California, Antelope, and others. The California works as high as $300 per ton. The ores must be roasted before they can be worked to any advantage.
We are nearing the end of the division, and on this smooth road-bed it takes but a few minutes to bring us to the end of Humboldt and the beginning of Truckee divisions.
A freight, passenger and eating station, of considerable importance, named for a chief of the Piutes, who formerly lived here. Elevation, 4,331 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,451 miles; from San Francisco, 463. The old and new towns contain about 500 inhabitants. The old town of Winnemucca is situated on the low land directly fronting the station, about 300 yards distant. Though so near, it is hid from sight until you approach the bank and look over. It contains about 30 buildings of all sorts, including several stores and groceries. The Humboldt Register, a weekly democratic paper, is published here. The new town of Winnemucca is built along the railroad, and numbers about 30 buildings, including the company's shops. There are four hotels, chief of which is the Railroad Hotel.
The buildings are of wood, new, and like most of the railroad towns, there is more of the useful than the ornamental about them.
The shops consist of a 16-stall roundhouse, car shop, machine and blacksmith shop. They are built of wood, in the
IT is said that in San Francisco the people can drink, and carry more without staggering, than in any city of the world.
most substantial manner, as are all the shops along the line.
Our irrepressible acquaintance, Hill Beachy, runs daily lines of stages from this point to Boise City, via Paradise, Buffalo, Camp McDermott, Battle Creek and Silver City. Distance, to Boise, 265 miles.
Is reshipped at this point for Boise City, Idaho Territory, and various points in Montana.
There is considerable mining going on around and near this place. A tenstamp water mill, turbine wheel, has been erected on the opposite side of the river, at the foot of Paradise valley, but it is too far away for convenience to the mines of this locality, though much of the first rock worked was taken there. At present there are three mills in the Winnemucca district, all doing a good business. In the Winnemucca Range many lodes of silver-bearing ore have been located, among which are the Stars and Stripes, Union, Pride of the World, Accident and Vermouth. These veins yield a fair return for working, and the district promises to become one of great importance.
About 50 miles west of Winnemucca, across the Humboldt, which here turns to the south, is one of those peculiar lakes found in the great basin of Nevada. The lake receives the waters of Quinn's river and several smaller tributaries during the wet season. It has no outlet, unless its connection with Pyramid and Winnemucca Lakes could be so designated. It is about 50 miles long by 20 wide, in high water; in summer it dwindles down to a marshy tract of land and a large stagnant pool. At the head of the lake is
A noted landmark in this part of the country. It is a bold, rocky headland,
)
Click to view
Page 144
rising about 1,800 feet above the lake, bleak, bare, and extending for several miles. It is an isolated peak in this desert waste, keeping solitary guard amid the surrounding desolation.
About twenty miles due south of Lake is
Which receives the waters of Truckee river. It is about 30 miles long by 20 wide, during the wet seasons. The quality of the water is superior to that of Mud Lake, though the waters of all these lakes is more or less brackish. But a few miles to the east of Pyramid Lake lies
Another stagnant pond, about 15 miles long by 10 wide. This lake is connected with Pyramid Lake by a small stream, and that in turn with Mud Lake, but only during high water, when the streams flowing into them cause them to spread far over the low sandy waste around them.
We now return to Winnemucca station, and resume our journey westward. The road bears away to the southward, skirting the low hills which extend from the Winnemucca Mountain toward Humboldt Lake. The general aspect of the country remains unchanged. After traversing 11 miles, we pass
Near a little ravine bearing that name. Elevation, 4,322 feet. The ravine lies to the left, among the hills, and is about three miles long. Where it enters the main valley, the bunch grass and patches of wild rye show that at one time the ground was moist here, but in the summer no water reaches the valley from this ravine. Ten miles west from this station, we arrive at
A day telegraph station. Elevation, 4,327 feet. The creek from which this station derives its name rises in the hills about 6 miles south of the road, and affords but little water in the summer. Why this stream is called Raspberry creek and the one we last passed Rose creek we never understood. We saw no indications of roses or raspberries at either place. The same monotonous aspect— sage-brush and now and then an alkali bed—greet the eye on the right hand, with the low brown hills on our left. We pass along, amid this apparent waste, until we reach
Eight miles to the westward of Raspberry Creek. Elevation, 4,228 feet. Stages leave this station on arrival of the cars for Unionville—a thrifty and promising Silver Mining town, 18 miles distant. We do not stop long at this station, not even to inquire whence it derives its name. After passing over 12 miles more of splendid road, we will stop at
Long enough to obtain a drink of the clearest, coldest mountain water to be found along the road side. And if we have time we will look at the fountain and the garden of mine host, G.W. Meacham, of the Humboldt House, and probably sit down and enjoy a "square meal," which can always be obtained at this place, one of the regular eating stations.
It is worth the while of any tourist, who wishes to examine the wonders of nature, to stop here and remain for a few days, at least, for one day will not suffice. There are several reasons why the traveler should stop here, although to the careless passer-by the country appears devoid of interest. But the seeker after knowledge, who wishes to delve into nature's mysteries, can here find pleasant and profitable employment. The whole sum of man's existence does not consist in mines, mills, merchandise and money. There are other ways of employing the mind beside bending its energies to the accumulation of wealth; there is still another God, mightier than Mammon, worshipped by the few. Among the works of His hands the barren plains, brown hills and curious lakes—the seeker after knowledge can
)
Click to view
Page 145
find ample opportunities to gratify his taste. The singular formation of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone age, the fossil remains and marine evidences of past submersion, and, above all else, the grand and unsolved system by which the waters that are continually pouring into this great basin are prevented from overflowing the low land around them, are objects worthy of the close attention and investigation of the scholar and philosopher. From this station the noted points of the country are easy of access, and beside that, this place is supplied with that great desideratum so rarely found in this country—pure, cold, health-giving mountain water.
Here one can observe the effects of irrigation on this sandy, sage-brush country. The garden at the station produces luxuriantly, vegetables, corn, and fruit trees, and yet but a short time has elapsed since it was covered with a rank growth of sage-brush.
About seven miles to the northeast may be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the Humboldt Range, on which the snow continues to hold its icy sway the whole year around. Two and one-half miles southeast are the Humboldt mines, five in number, gold and silver, which yield from $250 to $300 per ton. Five miles to the northwest are the Lanson Meadows, on which are cut immense quantities of as good grass as can be found in the country.
Leaving Humboldt station we pass over a more broken country, the low hills reaching farther out into the valley. Now we pass a SULPHUR MINE, about one mile west of the station on the right hand side of the road. The mineral is said to be obtained in a nearly pure state and in unlimited quantities. We did not visit the mine—though it lies in plain view of the road—memories of early teachings forbidding it.
Leaving the sulphur mine and the ideas associated with it, we pass on until we arrive at
An unimportant flag station, 11 miles further on our journey. Elevation, 4,256 feet. The reader might consider, from the name, that some settler had tried the experiment of raising rye at this point, but the only attempt of that kind has been made by nature. On the moist ground around this place, patches of wild rye grow luxuriantly. To the left of the road, against the hill side, is another hot spring, over whose surface a cloud of vapor is generally floating. The medicinal qualities of the water are highly spoken of by those who never tried them, but we could learn of no reliable analysis of its properties. A cabin has been erected on the green slope below the spring, as evidence that the property has been appropriated.
About ten miles from this station, silver-bearing quartz has been discovered. Several lodes have been located, and are now being worked. A mill has been erected at the foot of Humboldt Lake, and thither the ores are taken. As far as the veins have been worked, the returns have been very encouraging.
Leaving Rye Patch, we find a rather rough, uneven country for eleven miles further, when we find ourselves at
A day telegraph station. Elevation, 4,182 feet. To the west the long, gray line of the desert is seen, cheerless and desolate. We draw near the river again, and catch occasional glimpses of narrow, green meadows, with here and there a farm house by the river's side. Five miles from the last station we cross the Humboldt river on a Howe truss bridge, pausing at
Elevation, 4,008 feet, The river—its current and volume materially reduced since we left it at the head of the Big Bend—winds away on our left until it reaches the lake, a few miles beyond. Among sage-brush knolls, beds of alkali, and sand-hills, we pass on for four miles, when we arrive at
)
Click to view
Page 146
Near a ranch of that name. Elevation, 3,977 feet. At this point, we observe a comfortable farm-house on the borders of extensive meadows. Long ricks of hay, and trains loaded with the same article, attest the richness of the moist bottom hand known as Lovelock's Ranch. The meadows grow narrow, and fade from sight as we pass over the higher land among the alkali beds. We are now fairly out on the
Which occupies the largest portion of the Nevada Basin. In this section is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Humboldt, Winnemucca and Carson Lakes, which receive the waters of several large rivers, and numerous small creeks. It forms a portion of that vast desert belt which constitutes the central area of the Nevada Basin. It consists of barren plains—destitute of wood and water—and low, broken hills, which afford but little wood, water or grass. It is a part of that belt which can be traced through the whole length of the State, from Oregon to Arizona, and far into the interior of that Territory. The Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country east of Walker's Lake, are part of this great division which extends southward, continued, by those desolate plains, to the east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortunate Buel party suffered so terribly in their attempt to reach the Colorado. Throughout this vast extent of territory the same characteristics are found—evidences of recent volcanic action, alkaline flats, basalt rocks, hot springs, and sandy wastes abounding in all portions of this great belt.
Although this desert is generally spoken of as a sandy waste, sand does not predominate in those portions that we visited. Sand hills and flats occur at intervals, but the main bed of the desert is lava and clay combined—one as destitute of the power of creating or supporting vegetable life as the other. The action of the elements has covered these clay and lava deposits with a coarse dust, resembling sand, which is blown about and deposited in curious drifts and knolls by the wind. Where more of sand than clay is found, the sage-brush occasionally appears to have obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely tries to retain it.
We now continue our observations of the road, for while we have been describing the desert, the cars have reached
Eight miles from Lovelock's. Elevation, 3,917 feet. Passing on, we catch occasional glimpses of Humboldt Lake, which lies to the left of the road. We near its northern shore, and, seven miles from Granite Point, we stop at
A day telegraph station, where we can view the lake at our leisure. Elevation, 3,925 feet. The station is about midway of the northern shore, and affords a fine view of
This body of water is about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in reality a widening of the Humboldt river, which, after coursing through from 300 to 350 miles of country, empties its waters into this basin. Through this basin the water flows to the plains beyond, by an outlet at the lower end of the lake, uniting with the waters of the sink of Carson Lake, which lies about ten miles distant. During the wet season, when the swollen rivers have overflowed the low lands around the lakes and United them, they form a very respectable sheet of water, about eighty miles or more in length, with a large river emptying its waters into each end, and for this vast volume of water there is no visible outlet.
Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a dam has been erected, which has raised the water about six feet, completely obliterating the old emigrant road which passed close to the southern shore. The necessities of mining have at length utilized the waters of the lake, and now they are employed in turning the machinery of a quartz mill. In the
)
Click to view
Page 147
Constructing Snow Sheds, Sierra Nevada Mountains, C.P.R.R. See page 164.
)
Click to view
Page 148
lower end of the lake is an island—a long narrow strip of land—which extends up the lake and near the northern shore. Before the dam was put in the outlet, this island was part of the main land. There are several varieties of fish in the lake, and an abundance of water-fowl during portions of the year.
Leaving Brown's station, we pass along the shore of the lake for a few miles when an intervening sand ridge hides it from our sight. After passing this ridge, and when about eight miles west of Brown's station, we obtain a fine view of the
A small body of water lying a few miles north of the main Carson Lake, and connected with that and the Humboldt during the wet season.
Lies directly south of Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles long, with a width of ten miles. In the winter, its waters cover considerable more area, the Sink and lake being one.
The Carson river empties into the southern end of the lake, discharging a large volume of water. What becomes of the vast body of water continually pouring into Humboldt and Carson Lakes, is a question which has been often asked, and as often answered differently. Many claim the existence of underground channels, and terrible stories are told of unfortunate people who have been drawn down and disappeared forever. These stories must be taken with much allowance. If under-ground channels exist, how happens it that the lakes, which are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water, are united during the winter floods? And how is it, that when the waters have subsided from these alkaline plains, that no opening for these channels are visible? The only rational theory for the escape of the water is by evaporation. Examine each little stream bed that you meet with; you find no water there in the summer, nor sink holes, yet in the winter their beds are full until they reach the main river. The sun is so powerful on these lava plains in summer that the water evaporates as soon as it escapes from the cooling shadows of the hills. By actual experiment, it has been demonstrated that at Carson and Humboldt Lakes the evaporation of water is equal, in the summer, to six inches every 24 hours. In the winter when the atmosphere is more humid, evaporation is less, consequently the waters spread over a larger area.
Which gives its name to the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake Tahoe and opposite the head waters of the American river. From its source to its mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the river's course. From its source its course is about due north for about 75 miles, when it turns to the east, and follows that direction until it enters the lake.
Under the general name of Carson Valley the land bordering the river has long been celebrated as being one of the best farming sections in the State. The thriving towns of Carson City and Genoa are situated in the valley, though that portion around Carson City is frequently designated as Eagle valley. The upper portion, from Carson to the foot-hills, is very fertile and yields handsome crops of vegetables, though irrigation is necessary to insure a good yield. In some portions the small grains are successfully cultivated, and on the low lands an abundant crop of grass is produced. The valley is thickly settled, the arable land being mostly occupied. South and west of the head waters of Carson river, the head waters of
Find their source. The West Fork of Walker river rises within a few miles of the eastern branches of the Carson. The East Fork of Walker's river runs due north until joined by the West
)
Click to view
Page 149
Fork, when the course of the river is cast for about forty miles, when it turns to the south, following that direction until it reaches Walker's Lake, about forty miles south of the sink of the Carson, having traversed in its tortuous course about 140 miles. In the valleys, which are found at intervals along the rivers, occasional spots of arable land are found, but as an agricultural country the valley of Walker's river does not stand pre-eminent.
This lake is about 45 miles long by 20 miles wide. Like all the lakes in the basin it has no outlet. The water is blackish and strongly impregnated with alkali. The general characteristics of the other lakes in the great basin belong to this also; the description of one embracing all points belonging to the others.
We now return to the road, which we left eleven miles east of
Elevation, 3,893 feet. As indicated by the name, the plains immediately around the station are white with alkali, solid beds of which slope away to the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. Near by is a large water-tank, and we looked around in vain to discover the source from which it was supplied. A little cabin between the tank and lake revealed the mystery. A small engine is stationed there, which pumps the water from the "sink." No vegetation meets the eye when gazing on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly down on this barren scene, burning and withering, as though they would crush out any attempt which nature might make to introduce vegetable life. Seven miles of this inhospitable region having been passed, we arrive at
Elevated 3,199 feet. That curious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) is often witnessed on the desert. The toil-worn emigrant, when urging his weary team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened by the sight of clear running streams, waving trees and broad, green meadows, which appeared to be but a little distance away. Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course and followed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he had followed a phantom—a willo'-the-wisp, or the creation of his own fancy. What causes these optical delusions no one can tell; at least we never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the appearance of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy trees and the running water; we have seen them all near by, as bright and beautiful as though they really existed—where they appeared to—in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers have followed these visions, until overcome with thirst and heat they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling shade of the trees they might never reach; far from the music of running waters, which they might hear no more.
Still the same cheerless aspect—still the same hard, glittering light, reflected from the white beds of alkali and gray lava. Onward we go, scarcely giving a thought to those who, in the early days suffered so fearfully while crossing these plains. Eight miles west of Mirage we arrive at
telegraph station. Elevation, 4,070 feet. To the right of the road can be seen more of these escape pipes or safety valves for the discharge of the superabundant steam inside of our little globe. And here we venture another of our private opinions regarding these bubbling, sputtering curiosities, which are found scattered over the great basin. Every one is aware that the bottom of the basin is much lower than the surrounding country, which fact gives stability to our new theory, which is this: that the earth is run by steam works,
)
Click to view
Page 150
located in its centre, and the great basin being low and weak in the crust, afforded the easiest means of escape for the steam and hot water necessary to drive the machinery.
We find no change to note, unless it be that the beds of alkali are occasionally intermixed with brown patches of lava and sand. A few bunches of stunted sage-brush occasionally breaks the monotony of the scene. It is worthy of notice that this hardy shrub is never found growing singly and alone. The reason for it is evident. No single shrub could ever maintain an existence here. It must have help; consequently we find it in clumps, for mutual aid and protection. We now arrive at
Ten miles west of Hot Springs. Elevation, 4,017 feet. We will not tarry here, but pass on as rapidly as possible. We find the ground more broken as we proceed, lava ridges and deep gullies appearing at intervals. The gullies have been worn away through the hard crust (we cannot call it soil) until their smooth dry beds are several feet below the surface of the desert. The culverts put in the road-bed at these places indicate that at times there is water in them, though now they are devoid of moisture. Seven miles of Desert, we pass
Elevation, 4,115 feet. We pass on two miles further, down a heavy grade, and stop at
Elevation, 4,072 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,587 miles; from Sacramento, 189 miles. The town is situated about one mile east of Truckee river, and on the western border of the desert. It is one of the regular eating stations, and has an excellent hotel. The town is built of wood, and contains about 800 inhabitants. Aside from the Railroad House, there are two hotels, several lodging houses and restaurants. The water used here is obtained from Truckee river.
The division work-shops are located here, and consist of a round-house, car, machine and blacksmith shops. The round house has 20 stalls, and the other shops are of proportionate size. They furnish employment for about 200 men.
Freight is re-shipped at this point for Austin, Fort Churchill, and a large scope of country south; also, for the mines at Unionville and Dun Glen.
Pine Grove Copper mines lie six miles south of the town. They attract little attention, that mineral not being much sought after. Ten miles South are the Desert Mines, which consist of goldbearing quartz lodes. Some of the mines there are considered very rich. The Rye Patch, Dun Glen and Unionville Mines are also claimed as tributaries of Wadsworth.
We leave the town and pursue our way, crossing the fine Howe truss bridge which spans the
This stream rises in Lakes Tahoe and Donner, which lie at the eastern base of the Sierras, about 80 miles distant. From its source in Lake Tahoe, the main branch runs north for about twelve miles, when, near Truckee City, it unites with Little Truckee, the outlet of Donner Lake, and turns to the east following that course until it reaches the Big Bend, thence north for about 25 miles, when it discharges its waters into Pyramid Lake.
The level lands bordering the Truckee consist mostly of gravelly upland, covered with sage-brush. It is claimed that they might be rendered productive by irrigation, and the experiment has been tried in a small way, but with no flattering result. The Truckee meadows, long noted as the rendezvous of the emigrants, who camped here to re-
)
Click to view
Page 151
cruit their teams after crossing the desert, are about all the farming lands to be found in this section. The upper portions of the valley—especially that which borders on Lake Tahoe—is excellent farming land. Between these two points,—the meadows and the lake—but little meadow-land is found, the valley being reduced to narrow strips of low land in the canyons and narrows, and broad, gravelly uplands in the more open country. But the traveler who passes over the road can judge for himself, for the road follows up the river to within about twelve miles of its source. Therefore, we proceed on our journey, arriving at
Fifteen miles from Wadsworth. Elevation, 4,263 feet. A side-track and freight station for the
These meadows have an extent of about 10 miles in length by about two miles in width, enclosing considerable excellent grass land. Vegetables and small grains are successfully cultivated on portions of the moist land. The road follows along the river, now near its banks, then passing behind some low hill, we lose sight of it. Thus we wind in and out for 13 miles, when we arrive at
A side-track and freight station. Elevation, 4,403 feet. The country is very broken,—brown, bare-looking hills being scattered around in seeming confusion. A broad, gravelly upland, covered with sage-brush, usurps the valley and across this we speed until we reach
Eight miles west of Camp 37. Elevation, 4,507 feet. Distance from Omaha, 1,620 miles; from Sacramento, 154 miles. This promises to become an important point, and is at present a lively place. The town contains about 1,000 inhabitants. It was named for General Reno, who was killed in battle at South Mountain. Reno possesses an excellent little journal, the Crescent.
This is the nearest point on the railroad to Virginia City, and in that consists the future greatness of the place. It is designed to connect Virginia City with the Central by a railroad, the northern terminus of which will be located here. The distance between the places is 21 miles, and for most of the way there will be no serious obstacles to overcome in constructing the road.
The mines of the Pea Vine district lie conveniently near Reno. There are silver and gold-bearing quartz and copper mines in the district, the latter predominating. The Washoe U.C.G. and S.M.Co. works are near the town, affording excellent means by which to test and work the mines discovered in the neighborhood. The Glendale saw mill, situated a few miles to the west of Reno, furnishes a very important portion of the lumber trade of the place. The town is just outside of the eastern limits of the timber, but logs are rafted down the stream to the mills during high water from the pineries along its banks.
The Sage-Brush Stage Line Co. and Wells, Fargo & Co. dispatch daily coaches for Virginia City, Gold Hill and intervening points. The famous Pony Express leaves Reno on the arrival of the cars, carrying Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Express through ahead of the mail. The traveler may observe that the mail express bags are thrown from the cars before the train has ceased its motion. If he watches the proceeding further he will see that they are transferred to the backs of stout horses, already bestrode by light, wiry riders. In a moment all is ready, and away they dash under whip and spur to the next station, when, changing horses, they are off again. Three relays of horses are used in the trip.
L.H. Dyer's stage line connects Reno with Washoe and Carson Cities. To
)
Click to view
Page 152
Washoe City, 17 miles; to Carson City, 32 miles. Before proceeding further on the road it may be well for the traveler to visit the remarkable country to the south, where silver mining is carried on in the most extensive and complete manner imaginable. It is but 21 miles to the celebrated Comstock Lead, where are the first silver mines discovered in the State of Nevada. By taking stage at Reno he will have an opportunity of observing the noted
At Huffaker's he can obtain a conveyance for the springs, which are situated on the Carson and Reno stage road, five miles distant.
Arrived there, he will find several of these curious springs, within a short distance of the road. They are near each other, all having a common source, though different outlets, apparently. They are situated in an alkaline flat, devoid of vegetation, and are very hot, though the temperature varies in different springs. They are said to possess excellent medicinal qualities. At times they are quite active, emitting jets of water and clouds of steam—which at a distance resembles the blowing off of steam from a large boiler. The ground around them is soft and treacherous in places, as though it had been thrown up by the springs, and had not yet cooled or hardened. It is related that once upon a time, when a party of emigrants, who were toiling across the plains, arrived near these springs about camping time, they sent a man ahead—a Dutchman—to look out for a suitable place for camping— one where water and grass could be obtained. In his search the Dutchman discovered these springs, which happened to be quiet at the time, and knelt down to take a drink of the clear, nice-looking water. Just at that instant a jet of spray was thrown out and over the astonished Dutchman. Springing to his feet, he dashed away to the train, shouting at the top of his voice, "Drive on! drive on! h—ll is not five miles from this place!" the innocent fellow firmly believing what he uttered.
The traveler will find the springs sufficiently interesting to repay him for the trouble of pausing here while on his way to
This famous city is situated due south of Reno, 21 miles, on the slope of Mt. Davidson, at an elevation of 6,200 feet. The town is well built, and contains many elegant public and private buildings. It contains a population of about 15,000, the larger portion of whom are engaged in mining in the vicinity.
The Daily Territorial Enterprise—radical Republican—is published here, by J.T. Goodman, and is decidedly a good paper.
The religious and educational interests are well represented by several churches and good schools.
There are a number of hotels in the city, at which the traveler will find good accommodations.
Two miles from Virginia city is
Also a flourishing mining town. It consists mostly of one main street, being built along a ravine. One can hardly tell when he leaves Virginia City and enters Gold Hill, they are so closely connected. The place contains about 5,000 inhabitants, and one newspaper, the Gold Hill News, published by P. Lynch, a well known journalist.
Nine miles South of Virginia City, a thriving town of about 800 inhabitants.
The mines of Gold Hill are, as the name indicates, gold-bearing quartz, while those at Virginia City are silver.
Were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby and some others, who commenced mining in Six Mile Canyon—where the Ophir works now are—and continued working the place with indifferent suc-
)
Click to view
Page 153
cess until 1859. The first quartz claim was located by James Finney, better known as "old Virginia" on the 22d of February, 1858, in the Virginia Mining district and on the "Virginia Croppings." The old prospector gave his name to the city, croppings and district. In June, 1859, rich deposits of silver ore were discovered by Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin, on what is now the ground of the Opher Mining Company. They were engaged in gold washing, and uncovered a rich vein of sulphuret of silver, when engaged in excavating a place wherein to catch a supply of water for their rockers. The discovery was made on ground claimed by Kirby and others. A Mr. Comstock was employed to purchase the claims of Kirby and those holding with him, hence Comstock's name was given to the lode.
The length of this lode is about 25,000 feet, the out croppings extending in a broad belt along the mountain side. It extends under Virginia City and Gold Hill, the ground on which these cities are built being all "honey-combed" or undermined, in fact, the whole mountain is a series of shafts, tunnels and caverns, from which the ore has been taken. The vein is broken and irregular at intervals along its length as far as traced, owing to the formation of the mountain. It is also very irregular in thickness; in some places the fissure ranges from 30 to as high as 200 feet in width, while at other points the walls come close together. The greatest variation in width occurs in the depth, from 400 to 600 feet from the surface. The principal silver ores of this lead are stephanite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and very rich galena. Pyrargyrite or ruby silver, horn silver and polybasite, are found in small quantities, together with iron and copper pyrites, zinc-blende, carbonate of lead, pyromorphite and native gold.
On this lode over 70 claims were located, of which we find 42 mentioned in the surveyor's report. The chief claims are the Gould & Curry, Ophir (north mine), Ophir (south mine), Savage, Hale & Norcross, Chollar Potosi, Alpha, Imperial, Yellow Jacket, Kentuck, Belcher, Crown Point, Segregated Belcher, and Overman. The stock of these mines is to be found at the stock rooms in almost every city where mining stocks are made a specialty.
The number of mills in and around Gold Hill and Virginia, and at other points, which work on ore from this lead, is between 75 and 80. They are scattered around through several counties, including Storey (where the lode lies), Lyon, Washoe and Ormsby, from 30 to 40 of the number being in Storey county. The product of the Comstock Lode has been beyond that of any silver vein of which we have any record, furnishing the largest portion of the bullion shipped from the State. The total yield of bullion from Nevada was about $18,000,000 to $20,000,000 per year before White Pine was discovered.
With this short sketch of this remarkable silver mine, we will return to Reno, and resume our investigations in another direction. Following the old stage road from Reno to Carson City we pass Huffaker's station, the Steamboat Springs spoken of, and arrive at
Seventeen miles south of Reno, a flourishing town of about 700 inhabitants, lying nearly due west of Virginia City. Fifteen miles further south we find
The capital of Nevada, which lies 32 miles south of Reno, and 16 miles southwest of Virginia City. It is situated in Eagle Valley, on the Carson river, at the foot of the eastern base of the Sierras, and contains about 3,000 inhabitants. It is the oldest town in the State; has a good many fine private and public buildings. The town is tastefully decorated with shade trees, and has an abundance of good water. The
)
Click to view
Page 154
schools and churches are in a flourishing condition. The United States Branch Mint of Nevada is located at this place. The newspaper interest is represented by the Carson Appeal, a daily paper, which has long been established here.
Carson City is situated in the center of the best farming land on Carson river, and the best in this part of the State. Carson is connected by stage with Genoa, Markleville and Silver Mountain. A narrow-gauge railroad has been built from Carson to Virginia City, which will be pushed forward to a connection with the Central Pacific at an early day.
Fourteen miles southwest from Carson, is a thriving town of about 500 inhabitants, situated in a fine section of farming country on the Carson river, on the stage road to
A mining town, in the State of California, on the eastern slope of the Sierras, containing about 600 inhabitants.
Another mining town, 14 miles from Silver Mountain, containing about 400 inhabitants. The country abounds in silver mines around these towns.
Leaving the mines and Carson City, we once more return to Reno and resume our journey west. Near by Reno the hills are loftier, nearer the river, and covered with pine forests, and as we enter the canyon we seem to have entered a cooler, pleasanter, and more invigorating atmosphere. The aroma, of the spruce and pine is pleasant when compared with that of the alkaline plains. It is related of an Eastern lumberman, from "away down in Maine," who had been very sour and taciturn during the trip across the plains, refusing to be sociable with any of his fellow travelers, that when he entered within the shades of the forest, he straightened himself up in the cars for a moment, looked around, and exclaiming, "Thank God, I smell pitch once more," sank back in his seat and wept for joy.
Among these hills, with the river rolling along on our right, we pass along merrily, the dry, barren desert, forgotten in the new scenes opening to our view, until we reach
A station 11 miles west from Reno. Elevation, 4,927 feet. On, up the river, with its foaming current, now on our left, first on one side, then on the other, runs this beautiful stream, until we lose sight of it altogether. The road crosses and re-crosses it on fine Howe truss bridges, running as straight as the course of the mountains will permit. The mountains tower up on either hand, in places, sloping and covered with timber from base to summit, in others, precipitous, and covered with masses of black, broken rock. Tis a rough country, the canyon of the Truckee possessing many grand and imposing features. Occasional strips of meadow land are seen, close to the river's edge, but too small and rocky to be of use, only as grazing land. Now, we cross the dividing line, and shout
"Eureka."
as we enter California, a few miles east of
){kind=link}
A station, 16 miles west of Verdi. Elevation, 5,533 feet. The lumber interest is well represented here, huge piles of ties, boards and timber lining the roadside. The river seems to be the means of transportation for the saw logs, immense numbers of them being scattered up and down the stream, with here and
)
Click to view
Page 155
there a party of lumbermen working them down the mills.
We pass on, through deep gravel cuts, along the base of black masses of rock, which tower far above us, past sloping pine-clad hills, for eight miles to
Elevation, 5,845 feet. It is situated on the north bank of the Truckee River, in the midst of a heavily timbered region. The principal business of the place is lumbering, though an extensive freighting business is carried on with other points in the mountains. One can hardly get around the town for the pile of lumber, ties and wood which cover the ground in every direction. Some fine stores and a good hotel are the only buildings which can lay claim to size and finish corresponding with the growth and business of the place. The town is built of wooden buildings, mostly on the north side of the railroad. A narrow, crooked, muddy street separates the first row of buildings—the business portion of the town—from another string of carelessly arranged houses, which stretch along the foot of the mountains. The company have a very large depot and sheds here, which attest the heavy freight interest in the town. The very sharp roof of the buildings point out the fact that the snow falls deep and moist here, sufficiently so to crush in the roofs unless they are very sharp and strong. The town contains about 2,000 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are directly or indirectly connected with the lumber trade. (All the water of the Truckee River is required for mills and navigation—floating saw-logs.)
The Truckee Tribune—Ferguson, publisher—a semi-weekly independent journal, takes care of the interests of the locality. The educational interests have been provided for, good schools being the rule, Nevada County, in which Truckee City is situated, being justly celebrated for her public schools. There are two good churches in town, a Methodist and a Roman Catholic edifice.
There are three hotels in Truckee, the principal one being the Truckee House. The cars stop before the house thirty minutes, affording time for the traveller to obtain a good meal. This hotel is the headquarters of the tourists who visit this locality.
This station is the end of the Truckee and the commencement of the
The company have a 24-stall round house and the usual machine and repair shops of a division located here.
Daily stages leave for Donner Lake, Lake Tahoe and Sierraville. Donner Lake line, Pollard, to the head of the lake, six miles; Lake Tahoe line, Campbell & Burke, 14 miles; Sierraville line, G. Richardson, 30 miles. Darling & Schneider, of Sierra City, have built a wagon road from Sierra City to Milton, on the Henness Pass road. The length of grade required to connect with the Henness Pass road is five miles. The road connects Sierra City with Truckee, via the Hennes Pass and Donner Lake wagon roads. Heretofore Sierra City has been compelled to get its supplies by way of Marysville and Downieville, a distance of 80 miles, or from Colfax, via Nevada City and Downieville, also about 80 miles. The new road connects them with the railroad within a distance of 32 miles—giving a distance of 48 miles in favor of the new route. It is also the nearest point for Downieville people to reach the railroad, as the latter place is but 16 miles from Sierra City.
Freight is re-shipped here for Donner and Tahoe lakes. Sierraville, and the various towns in Sierra Valley. There are some wholesale and retail houses here, which do a large business; the average monthly sales of merchandise in the town amount to about $140,000.
CHINESE cheap labor—"Work for nothing and board yourself"—from the inhabitants of your neighbor's hen-roost.
VIRTUE and honor are very nice for Sunday wear, but too rare for every-day use.
)
Click to view
Page 156
and how to reach them. We have spoken of the stage lines to the lakes, but of no other mode of reaching those places. Campbell, of the Truckee House, has fine turn-outs in his stables. Take one of these, and, with a guide, start out for
or Bigler, as it is called on some of the official maps. Tahoe is an Indian name, signifying "big water," and is pronounced by the Indians "Tah-oo," while the "pale faces" pronounce it "Tahoe." It is located 12 miles south of Truckee. A splendid road affords one of the best and pleasantest drives to be found in the State. The road follows the river bank, under the shade of waving pines or across green meadows, until it reaches Tahoe City, at the foot of the lake. Here are excellent accommodations for travellers, a good hotel, boats, and a well-stocked stable, from whence you take a carriage (if you come by stage) and travel around the lake.
The latest attraction is a steamboat, placed upon the lake by B. Hollady, Jr., for the accommodation of pleasure seekers.
According to the survey of the State line Lake Tahoe lies in two States and five counties. The line between California and Nevada runs north and south, through the lake, until it reaches a certain point therein, when it changes to a course 17 degs. east of south. Thus the counties of Eldorado and Placer, in California, and Washoe, Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the line was surveyed through the lake it is 1,700 feet deep.
Starting on our exploring tour we will commence with the eastern shore. The first object of interest met with is a relic of the palmy days of staging:
FRIDAY'S STATION, an old stage station, established by Burke in '59, on the Placerville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles further on we come to the GLENBROOK HOUSE, a favorite resort for tourists. Four miles further on we come to THE CAVE, a cavern in the hillside, fully 100 feet above and overhanging the lake. There are, also two saw mills on the eastern shore of the lake. From Glenbrook House there is a fine road to Carson City.
Following around to the north end of the lake, and but a short distance away, are the celebrated HOT SPRINGS, lying just across the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a splendid spring of clear cold water, totally devoid of mineral taste. The next object which attracts our attention is CORNELIAN BAY, a beautiful indenture in the coast, with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there has been scarcely a point from which the descent to the water's edge is not smooth and easy.
Passing on around to the west side we return to
which contains two hotels, two stores, one saloon, two livery stables and several private dwellings. Four miles from Tahoe City is Saxon's saw mill, and two miles beyond this we come to more saw mills, and finally we reach SUGAR PINE POINT, a spur of mountains covered with a splendid forest of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, for all uses, found on the Pacific coast. There are fine streams running into the lake, on each side of the point. We now arrive, at EMERALD BAY, a beautiful placid inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not over 400 yards wide at its mouth but widens to two miles inland, forming one of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the world. It is owned by Ben Holliday. At the south end of the lake is the site of the OLD LAKE HOUSE, burned a short time ago. At this point LAKE VALLEY CREEK enters the lake having wound among the hills for several miles since it left the springs and snows which feed it. The VALLEY OF LAKE CREEK is one of the loveliest to be found among the Sierras. The whole valley, from the mountain slope to the lake, is one continual series of verdant meadows, dotted with milk ranches, where the choicest butter and cheese are manufactured. Around the lake the land is generally level for some distance back,
)
Click to view
Page 157
Forest View near Dutch Flat, C.P.R.R.
)
Click to view
Page 158
and covered with pine, fir and balsam timber, embracing at least 300 sections of as fine timbered land as the State affords. It is easy of access and handy to market, the logs being rafted down the lake to the Truckee, and thence down to any point on the railroad above Reno. So much for the general appearance of Lake Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one must go there and spend a short time. When once there, sailing on the beautiful lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that make the pole sway and bend in your hand like a willow wand, you will be in no hurry to leave. If you become tired of sailing and angling, take your gun and tramp into the hills and fill your game pouch with quail and grouse, and perhaps you may start up a deer or bear. He who cannot content himself for a time at Tahoe, could not be satisfied in any place on earth; he would need to find a new and better world.
We have now circled the lake and can judge of its dimensions, which are 22 miles in length and ten in width. We are loth to leave it, but we will return to Truckee, and thence to
This lovely little lakelet, the "Gem of the Sierras," lies two and a half miles northwest of Truckee. It is about three and a half miles long, with an average width of one mile, and an unknown depth—having been sounded 1,700 feet, and no bottom found. This and Lake Tahoe are undoubtedly the craters of old volcanoes, the mountains around them presenting unmistakable evidences of volcanic formation. The waters of both lakes are cold and clear as crystal, the bottom showing every pebble with great distinctness under water 50 feet deep. It is surrounded on three sides by towering mountains, covered with a heavy growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of immense size. Were it not for the occasional rattling of the cars, away up the mountain side, as they toil upward to the "Summit," and the few cabins scattered here and there along the shore, one would fancy that he was in one of nature's secret retreats, where man had never ventured before. But when an immense log comes sweeping and crashing down the hill-side and plunges into the lake, he arrives at the conclusion that some one has been here before him, and has concluded to stay a while. A small stream which tumbles down the mountain side winds its way through the dense wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the upper end or head of the lake, which rests against the foot of "Summit" Mountain. At this point, on a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant pines, is the
A favorite resort for tourists. The stage from Truckee runs to this place twice a day, on the arrival of the cars from east and west. From the Lake House, a very fine view of the railroad can be obtained. Within sight are four tunnels and several miles of snow-sheds, while behind and seemingly overhanging the road, the mountain's bald, bleak, bare, massive piles of granite tower far above, their precipitous sides seeming to bid defiance to the ravages of time. A fine road has been graded along the right-hand shore, from the station to the Lake House, forming a splendid drive. The "old emigrant road" skirts the foot of the lake (where the Donner party perished), and following up the stage road, climbs the "Summit" just beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it struck the divide at Summit Valley; from thence it followed the valley down for several miles, then struck across the crest-spurs, and followed the divide down from Emigrant Gap.
On the grade road, at the foot of the lake, is the
Another resort for travelers and tourists. At this place, and also at the Lake House, are boats, fishing tackle, and all things needful for an excursion on the placid waters. A saw mill has been built at the foot of the lake, where a
)
Click to view
Page 159
great amount of lumber is manufactured. The logs are slid down the mountain sides in "shoots," or troughs made of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted down to the mill. On the west side of the lake the timber has not been disturbed, but sweeps down from the railroad to the water's edge in one dense unbroken forest.
From the foot of the lake issues a beautiful creek, which, after uniting with Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee river.
Which runs close by the lower end of the lake, is a clear, cold mountain stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite Summit valley. Its waters are very cold, and are well stocked with fish. Some excellent grazing land borders the creek after it leaves the mountain's gorge. The foot of the lake is bordered with green meadows, covering an extent of several hundred acres of fine grazing land.
In Donner and Tahoe Lakes is found the silver trout, which attains the weight of 29 pounds. There are many varieties of fish in these lakes, but this is most prized, most sought after by the angler. It is rare sport to bring to the water's edge one of these sleek-hide, sharp-biting fellows—to handle him delicately and daintily until he is safe landed, and then, when his remains are fried, baked, or broiled brown, if is not bad employment for the jaws to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels—it's not bad jawing. The water near the lake shore is fairly alive with white fish, dace, rock-fish, and several other varieties, the trout keeping in deeper water. There is no more favorite resort for the angler and hunter than these lakes and the surrounding mountains, where quail, grouse, deer and bear abound. These lakes are a favorite resort for the
Who annually visit this locality during the summer vacation. The steamboat and railroad companies generally pass them over the route, and they pass a happy week at Tahoe and Donner Lakes. It is a pleasant sight to see these merry girls—they are girls when among the hills—romping, scrambling and wandering among the hills and along the lake shore, giving new life and animation to the scene. The gray old hills and mighty forests re-echo with their merry laughter, as they stroll around the lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, perhaps, essaying their skill as anglers, to the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants of the lake, and the total demoralization of the hearts of their male companions.
It gives us great pleasure, too, to see "ye" male teacher threading his way amid the brush and bogs around the lake. With what an effort he lifts his apology for a leg over some stupid log, which would come right in his way. Overcome with the effort, he sits down on an ant's nest beside the log to rest, when along comes a shouting, rosy-faced bevy of girls, who leap over the log, frightening "ye master" nearly out of his wits—if he has any—he is very much "shocked," and tries to look dignified; they cannot, and would not if they could; neither do they try, but pass on in their wild chase after health and vigor.
Why will our city men be so disgustingly dignified and stupid when in the pursuit of pleasure? They cannot enjoy life and freedom from care, as can a woman; they must ever be "stuckup," or very precise, like hired mourners to a funeral.
Around this beautiful sheet of water—nestled so closely in the embrace of these mighty mountains, smiling and joyous in its matchless beauty, as though no dark sorrow had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters reflected back the wan and haggard face of starvation—is clustered the saddest of memories—a memory perpetuated by the name of the lake.
In the fall of '46, a party of emigrants, mostly from Illinois, arrived at Truckee river, worn and wasted from their long
)
Click to view
Page 160
and arduous journey. Among that party was a Mr. Donner, who, with his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of the California rivers, the fame of which had reached them in their eastern home. At that time a few hardy pioneers had settled near Sutter's Fort, brought there by the returning trappers who, with wondrous tales of the fertility of the soil and the genial climate of California, had induced some of their friends to return with them and settle in this beautiful land. The Donner party, as it is generally called, was one of those parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was journeying to this then almost unknown land. Arrived on the Truckee, the guide, who knew the danger threatening them, hurried them forward, that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the snows of winter should encompass them. Part of the train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who had a large lot of cattle, would not hurry. Despite all warnings, he loitered along until at last he reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped there for the night. The weather was growing cold, and the black and threatening sky betokened the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road turned to the left in those days, following up Coldstream and crossing the Summit, near Summit Meadows, a very difficult and dangerous route in fair weather. The party who encamped at the lake that night numbered 16 souls, among whom was Mrs. Donner and her four children. During the night, the threatened storm burst over them in all its fury. The old pines swayed and bent before the blast which swept over the lake, bearing destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. The snow fell heavily and fast, as it can fall in these mountains. The frightened cattle broke from their guards and fled.
In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants beheld one vast expanse of snow, and the large white flakes falling thick and fast. Still there was hope. Some of the cattle and their horses remained. They could leave the wagons, and with the horses they might possibly cross the mountains. But here arose another difficulty. Mr. Donner was unwell, and could not go; or, preferring to wait until the storm subsided;—and Mrs. Donner, like a true woman, refused to leave her husband.
The balance of the party—with the exception of one, a German, who decided to stay with the family—placed the children on the horses, and bade Mr. and Mrs. Donner a last good-by; and after a long and perilous battle with the storm, they succeeded in crossing the mountains and reaching the valleys, where the danger was at an end. The storm continued, almost without intermission, for several weeks, and those who had crossed the Summit knew that an attempt to reach the imprisoned party would be futile, worse than folly, until the spring sun should melt away the icy barrier.
Of the long and dreary winter passed by these three persons, who shall tell? The tall stumps (see illustration -view image- ) standing near where stood the cabin attest the depth of snow. Some of them are 20 feet in height.
Early in the spring a party of brave men, led by Claude Cheney, started from the valley to bring out the prisoners, expecting to find them alive and well, for it was supposed that they had provisions enough to last them through the winter, but it seems they were mistaken.
After a desperate effort, which required weeks of toil and exposure, the party succeeded in scaling the mountains and came to the camp of the Donners. What a sight met the first glance—before the fire sat the Dutchman, holding, in a vice-like grasp, a roasted arm and hand, which he was greedily eating. With a wild and frightened look he sprang to his feet and confronted the new comers, holding on to the arm as though he feared they would deprive him of his repast. The remains of the arm were taken from him by main force, and the maniac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were found, and with those of his faithful wife, given such burial as the circumstances would permit, and
)
Click to view
Page 161
Starvation Camp.—Stumps cut by the Donner Lake Party, 1846. For full description see page 160.
(From photograph by Thos. Houseworth & Co., San Francisco.)
)
Click to view
Page 162
taking the survivor with them, returned to the valley.
The German recovered, and still lives. His story is that soon after the party left Mr. Donner died, and was buried in the snow. The last of the cattle escaped, leaving but little food; and when that was exausted, Mrs. Donner died. Many dark suspicions of foul play on the part of the only survivor has been circulated, but whether they are correct will never be known, until the final unraveling of time's dark mysteries.
Lies about 30 miles from Truckee City, among the Sierras. It is about 40 miles long, with a width of from five to seven miles. It is fertile, thickly settled, and taken in connection with some other mountain valleys, might be termed the Orange county of California, from the quantity and quality of butter and cheese manufactured there. In the mountain valleys and on the table-lands the best butter and cheese found in the State are manufactured—the low valleys being too warm, and the grasses and water not so good as found here. In Sierra, and many other mountain valleys, good crops of grain and vegetables are grown in favorable seasons, but the surest and most profitable business is dairying. The flourishing town of Royalton is situated in this valley.
An almost circular sheet of water, about 10 miles in diameter, lies about 50 miles north of Truckee City. Willow creek and Susan creek enter it at the north, while Lone Valley creek empties its waters into the southern portion of the lake. Some fine meadow and grazing land is found in the valleys bordering these streams, which has been occupied by settlers, and converted into flourishing farms.
Susanville, the principal town in the valley, is situated north of the lake. It is connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, and Oroville, California.
We now take leave of Truckee City and its surroundings, and prepare to cross the "Summit of the Sierras," fourteen miles distant. With two locomotives leading, we cross the North Fork or Little Truckee on a single-span Howe truss bridge. We leave it behind us and make directly across the broken land bordering the lake meadows for the foot of the Sierras. Now, we skirt along the hill-side, with the beautiful Coldstream (a branch of the North Fork), on our right, winding through the grassy valley and among the waving pines.
Eleven miles from Truckee we arrive at
Now, we bend around the southern end of the valley, which borders the lake, and crossing Coldstream, we commence the ascent of the mountain. Now, we skirt the eastern base, rising higher and higher until Donner Lake, the loveliest gem in the Sierras, is far below us looking like a lake of silver set in the shadows of green forests and brown mountains. Up still, the long black line, bent around and seeming stealing away in the same direction in which we are moving, though far below us, points out the winding course we have followed. Up, still up, higher and higher, and now we enter the long line of snow-sheds, leading to the first tunnel. We toil on, rushing through the snow-sheds, plunging into the tunnel, the locomotives snorting an angry defiance as we enter these gloomy rock-bound chambers.
Seven thousand and seventeen feet above the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 1,669 miles; from Sacramento, 105 miles. We are not on the highest lands of the Sierra by any means, for bleak and bare of verdure rise the granite peaks around us. Piles of granite, their weather-stained and moss-clad sides glistening in the morning sun, rise between us and the "western shore," hiding from our sight the vast expanse of plain that we know lies between us and our destination. Scattering groups of hardy fir and spruce line the mountain gorges, where rest the everlasting snows. To the east rises Rattlesnake Mountain, its rocky crest
)
Click to view
Page 163
towering among the clouds, seeming but one immense mass or solid granite, with here and there a bunch of stunted bushes growing among the clefts and chasms which traverse it.
We are on the dividing ridge which separates the head waters of several mountain rivers, which, by different and tortuous courses, find at last the same common receptacle for their snow-fed waters—the Sacramento River. Close to our right, far down in that fir-clad gorge, the waters of the South Yuba leap and dance along, amid dense and gloomy forests, and over almost countless rapids, cascades and waterfalls. This stream heads against and far up the Summit, one branch crossing the road at the next station, Cascade. As we pass along the divide, after passing Cisco, we shall see the head waters of Bear River, lying between the divide and the Yuba, which winds away beyond our sight behind another mountain ridge. Farther on still and we lose sight of Bear River to find the American River on our left. These streams reach the same ending—the Sacramento River—but far apart, where they mingle with that stream. There is no grander scenery in the Sierras—of towering mountains, deep gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling waterfalls and crystal lakes—than abound within an easy distance of this place. The tourist can find scenes of the deepest interest and grandest beauty; the scholar and philosopher objects of rare value for scientific investigation; the hunter and angler can find an almost unlimited field for their amusement—the former in the gorges of the mountains, where the timid deer and fierce grizzly bear make their home; the latter among the mountain lakes and streams, where the speckled trout leaps in its joyous freedom, while around all is the music of snow-fed mountain torrent and mountain breeze, and over all is the clear, blue sky of our sunny clime, tempered and softened by the shadows of the everlasting hills. There is life, health and vigor on every hand, if one will but embrace it.
From the time when the road enters the crests of the "Summit," it passes through a succession of tunnels and snow sheds (see first snow shed illustration -view image- ), so closely connected that the traveller can hardly tell when the cars enter or leave a tunnel. The Summit tunnel, the longest of the number, is 1,659 feet long, the others ranging from 100 to 870 feet in length.
){kind=link}
Fires sometimes cause damage to sheds and road, but seldom any delay to the trains, as the company have materials of all kinds on hand for any emergency, and with their swarm of men can replace everything almost as quick as it is destroyed; but, to further protect the snow sheds and bridges from fire, and the more effectually to extinguish them, the Railroad Company have stationed at the Summit the locomotive Grey Eagle (with steam always up and ready to answer a summons), with a force pump of large capacity, supplied with steam from the engine. Attached to the locomotive are eight water cars, the tanks on which are connected with each other and with the tender of the engine, so that the supply of water will always be sufficient to check any ordinary fire.
The snow sheds are solid structures, built of sawed and round timber, completely roofing in the road for many miles. When the road was completed there were 23 miles of shed built, at an actual cost of $10,000 per mile. With the additions since made the line reaches about 45 miles, which includes the whole length of the deep snow line on the dividing ridge. When we consider that along the summit the snow falls from 16 to 20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can imagine the necessity, and importance of these structures. By this means the track is as clear from snow in the winter as in the valleys. The mighty avalanches which sweep down the mountain sides in the spring, bearing everything before them, pass over the sloping roofs of the sheds and plunge into the chasms below, while beneath the rushing mass the cars glide smoothly along, the passengers hardly knowing but what they are in the midst of an enormous tunnel.
)
Click to view
Page 164
Where the road lies clear on the divide or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, like those of any building calculated to withstand a great weight of snow. But where the road is built against the side of these bare peaks, the roof of the shed can have but one slope, and that must reach the mountain side, to enable the "snow-slides" to cross the road without doing harm to that or the passing trains. (See second snow-shed illustration. -view image- )
Leaving the Summit, we pass on through snow-sheds and tunnels, around the base of towering peaks, anon over the bare ridge with an unbroken view on either hand, then amid grand old forest trees until we reach
Six miles west of Summit. Elevation, 6,519 feet. Here we cross one of the brances of the Yuba, which goes leaping down the rocks in a shower of spray during the summer, but in the winter the chasm shows but a bed of snow and ice. While passing along, the traveler will observe to the west a broad grassy meadow, dotted with trees, and lying between two lofty mountains. This beautiful plain is called
It will repay the traveler to spend a day here, in one of the loftiest of the Sierra valleys. It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass affording pasturage for large bands of cattle, during the summer. It is all occupied by dairymen and stockraisers, at whose comfortable dwellings the tourist will find a hearty welcome. It is a delightful summer retreat a favorite resort for those who prefer the mountains with their cool breezes and pure water. The valley is watered by many springs and snow-fed rivulets, whose waters flow to the American river.
This valley is becoming noted in a business point of view, as well as being a place of summer resort. It is becoming celebrated as a meat packing station, it having been demonstrated that pork and beef can be successfully cured here during any portion of the year. In most portions of the State, and especially so on the plains, it is extremely difficult, generally impossible, to cure meat by the usual process of pickling. The hams, which are cured in the low lands, are generally "pumped," and then they keep but a short time. But here meat can be put up in brine and thoroughly cured at any time. This fact, together with its proximity to the railroad, will have the effect of creating an extensive business at this point.
These springs are found near the foot of Summit Valley, their waters uniting with others, forming the head waters of the American river. The springs are very large and numerous. The water is pronounced to be the best medicinal water in the State. It is a delightful drink, cool and sparkling, possessing the taste of the best quality of manufactured soda water. The larger of the springs have been improved, and great quantities of the water is now bottled and shipped to all parts of the State. Near the Soda Springs are others, the waters of which are devoid of mineral or aciduous taste, and cold as ice.
"'Tis a singular place," the miner said, when telling his friends of his discovery. "'Tis a singular place; dog on my skin if it ain't, whar sweet and sour water comes oute'n the same hole, one billin' hot, to look at it, but cold as ice; the other looking warm and quiet, but cold enough to freeze a feller to death." We leave the valley and Hot Springs with the remark that at Tinker's Station, or
Is the best point at which to leave the cars for a visit to the valley. This station is four miles west of the cascades, and has little importance, cars stopping only on signal. Elevation, 6,191 feet.
Among the hills, through snow-sheds and tunnels, we speed on for three miles, when we arrive at
)
Click to view
Page 165
An eating station. Elevation, 5,939 feet, where good meals can be obtained. There is quite a little town of sharp-roofed wooden houses here, containing about 400 inhabitants. At one time it was quite an important place, being the "terminus" during the time occupied in tunneling through the summit. A turn table and small shops were erected, but they are little used now, as the road has passed them.
Leaving Cisco, we pass on the down grade carrying us along rapidly and easily, without the help of the locomotives. We feel refreshed by the mountain breeze, and when the snow-sheds have an interval between them, we catch glimpses of the streams we have mentioned, the Bear and Yuba rivers away to our right and far, far below us. Eight miles west from Cisco, we reach
The point where the old emigrant road crossed the divide, and followed down the ridges to the valley of the Sacramento. The emigrants passed over the "gap," we pass under it, making a slight difference in elevation between the two roads, as well as a difference in the mode of traveling. We have seen the last of the old emigrant road that we have followed so far. No more will the weary emigrant toil over the long and weary journey. Space is annihilated, and the tireless iron horse will henceforth haul an iron wagon over an iron road, landing the emigrant fresh and hearty, after a week's ride, in the sunny land of his adoption.
Passing on amid the grand old pines, leaving the summit peaks behind, we turn up Blue canyon, the road-bed on the opposite bank apparently running parallel with the one we are traversing. We swing around the head of the canyon, past saw mills, and lumber sidetracks, until we reach the station of
Six miles from Cisco. Elevation, 4,677 feet. A freight and lumber station, for the accommodation of the mills in the vicinity. Immense quantities of lumber are manufactured in these mountains, near the line of the road, Sacramento affording a ready market for the article. Before the railroad reached these mountains, the lumber interest of this section was of little value, there being only a local demand, which hardly paid for building mills and keeping teams. The mines were then the only market—the cost of freight to the valleys forbidding competition with the Puget Sound lumber trade, or with mills situated so much nearer the agricultural districts. Now the lumber can be sent to the valleys, and sold as cheap as any in a market rarely overstocked, for the one item of lumber forms one of the staple market articles, ruling at more regular prices, and being in better demand, than any other article of trade, if we except wheat.
Passing on, we leave Blue Canyon, its sparkling waters and giant pines, speeding along around the hill sides, past
An unimportant station, two miles west of Blue Canyon, with an elevation of 4,410 feet. Two miles farther, and we pass
A similar station to the last. Elevation, 4,154 feet. Five miles beyond Shady Run and we stop for a few minutes at
A freight and passenger station. Alta looks old and weather beaten, and its half-dozen board houses with sharp roofs look as though there was little less than a century between the present and the time when they were ushered into existence.
Fronting Alta, and but a short distance from the town, is the
One of the grandest gorges in the Sierra Mountains. [See Illustration -view image- .] The river is here compressed between two walls, 2,000 feet high, and so near perpendicular that we can stand on the brink
)
Click to view
Page 166
of the cliff and look directly down on the foaming waters below. The canyon is about two miles long, and so precipitous are its sides, which are washed by the torrent, that it has been found impossible to ascend the stream through the gorge, even on foot.
Two miles further on and we stop at
Commonly called German Level, the station for the town of that name. Elevation, 3,403 feet. The town of Dutch Flat is situated in a hollow, near by and to the right of the road, a portion of it being in plain view. The town contains many good buildings, churches, schools, and hotels. Population, about 2,000. One feature of this town is worth noting, and worthy of commendation—the beautiful gardens and fine Orchards which ornament almost every house. In almost all of the mountain towns, in fact in all of the older mining towns, the scene is reproduced, while many of the valley towns are bare of vines, flowers or fruit trees. The miner's cabin has its garden and fruit trees attached, if water can be had for irrigation, while half of the farm houses have neither fruit trees, shrubs, flowers or gardens around them.
G. H. Colby runs a daily coach to Nevada City, 16 1/2 miles distant, via Little York, You Bet and Red Dog. Freight is left here for these places and the surrounding mines.
A mining town, three miles northwest of Dutch Flat, contains about 500 inhabitants.
Six miles from Little York, also a mining town, about the size of Little York.
Seven and a half miles from You Bet, still another small mining town. These towns are situated on what is called the Blue Lead, the best large placer mining district in the State. The traveler will see the evidences of the vast labor performed here while standing on the platform of the cars at Alta, Dutch Flat or Gold Run stations. The Blue Lead extends from below Gold Run, through the length of Nevada, on, into and through a portion of Sierra county. It is supposed to be the bed of some ancient river which was much larger than any of the existing mountain streams. The course of this old river was nearly at right angles with that followed by the Yuba and other streams which run across it. The channel is from one to five miles wide in places; at least the gravel hills, which are supposed to cover the bed, extend for that distance across the range. Many of these gravel hills are from 100 to 500 feet high, covered with pine trees from two to six feet in diameter. Petrified trees, oak and pine, and other woods, such as manzanita, mountain mahogany and maple are found in the bed of the river, showing that the same varieties of wood existed when this great change was wrought, as are now growing on the adjacent hillsides.
The traveler will observe by the road side, mining ditches and flumes, carrying a large and rapid stream of clear cold water. These ditches extend for many miles, tapping the rivers near their sources—near the regions of perpetual snow. By this means the water is conveyed over the tops of the hills, whence it is carried to any claim below it. The long, high and narrow flume, called a "telegraph," carries the water from the ditch, as nearly level as possible, over the claim to be worked. To the "telegraph" is attached a hose with an iron pipe, or nozzle, through which the water rushes with great velocity. When directed against a gravel bank, it cuts and tears it down, washing the dirt thoroughly, at a rate astonishing to those unaquainted with hydraulic mining -view image- . The water carries rocks, dirt and sand through the tail race and into the long flumes where the riffles for collecting the gold are placed. Miles and
)
Click to view
Page 167
Rounding Cape Horn. (See page 169.)
)
Click to view
Page 168
miles of the flumes have been built at an enormous expense to save the gold carried away in the tailings.
Around Little York and You Bet, the lead is mixed too much with cement to mine in this manner with profit, hence mills have been erected where the cement is worked in the same manner as quartz rock, crushed and then amalgamated. But we cannot linger here, we must go on with the train, which, even now, is starting.
Two miles beyond Dutch Flat; elevation 3,206 feet. A small mining town, containing about 200 inhabitants. Around it you can see on every hand the miner's work. Long flume beds, which carries off the washed gravel and retain the gold; long and large ditches full of ice-cold water, which, directed by skillful hands, are fast tearing down the mountains and sending the washed debris to fill the river beds in the plains below. There are a set of "pipes" busy in playing against the hillside, which often comes down in acres. All is life, energy and activity. We don't see many children peeping out of those cabins, for they are not so plenty in the mining districts as in Salt Lake. But we do see nearly all of the cabins surrounded with little gardens and orchards, which produce the finest of fruit.
Leaving Gold Run, we descend the mountain rapidly. Here and there we see Chinese cabins, and by them huge piles of soap root, and bales of the prepared article. It will be transported to the factories, where it is manufactured into mattresses. This root grows in profusion in the hard red soil of the mountains. On, amid mining claims, by the side of large ditches, through the deep gravel cuts, and along the grassy hillsides, until, on the left, we catch a glimpse of the North Fork of the American river -view image- , foaming and dashing along in a narrow gorge full 1,500 feet beneath us. Farther on we see the North Fork of the North Fork, dashing down the steep mountain at right angles with the other, leaping from waterfall to waterfall, its sparkling current resembling an airy chain of dancing sunbeams, as it hastens on to unite with the main stream. Now we lose sight of it, while it passes through one of those grand canyons only to be met with in these mountains. Now we pass
A signal station, six miles from Gold Run. Elevation, 2,691 feet. We pass steadily on, leaving the scene behind, when suddenly it breaks on our view again, and this time right under us as it seems, but much farther down below us. It seems as though we could jump from the platform into the river, so close are we to the brink of the precipice; steadily on goes the long train, while far below us the waters dance along, the river looking like a winding thread of silver laid in the bottom of the chasm, 2,500 feet below us. This is
Timid ladies will draw back with a shudder, one look into the awful chasm being sufficient to unsettle their nerves and deprive them of the wish to linger near the grandest scene on the whole line of the trans-continental railroad. Now look farther down the river and behold that black speck spanning the silver line. That is the turnpike bridge on the road to Iowa Hill, though, it looks no larger than a foot plank. Now we turn sharp around to our right, where the towering masses of rock have been cut down, affording a road-bed, where a few years ago the savage could not make a foot trail. Far above us they rear their black crests, towering away, as it were, to the clouds, their long shadows falling far across the lovely little valley now lying on our left, and a thousand feet below us still. We have lost sight of the river, and are following the mountain side, looking for a place where we cross this valley and reach the road-bed on the opposite side, which we can see runs parallel with us. We have found it, and turning to our left, we cross the valley on a trestle
)
Click to view
Page 169
bridge 113 feet high and 878 feet long, where it crosses the lowest part of the valley. Gradually the height grows less, until it is reduced, at the end of 600 feet, enough to admit of an embankment being raised to meet it. On, over the embankment which curves around to the left, and now we are on the solid hill side, and running along opposite the road by which we passed up the valley. We now have our last and best look at the bold bluff.
The best view of this noted place is obtained when going east, or from the river below. (See illustration. -view image- ) Viewed from the river, the passing train looks like some huge monster winding around the bluff, bold point, puffing and blowing with its herculean labors, or screaming angry notes of defiance, or perhaps of ultimate triumph at the obstacles overcome. When the road was in course of construction, the groups of Chinese laborers on the bluffs looked almost like swarms of ants, when viewed from the river. Years ago, the cunning savage could find only a very roundabout trail by which to ascend the point, where now the genius and energy of the pale-face has laid a broad and safe road whereon the iron steed carries its living freight swiftly and safely on their way to and from ocean to ocean.
When the road-bed was constructed around this point, the men who broke the first standing ground were held by ropes until firm foot-holds could be excavated in the rocky sides of the preciptous bluffs.
While we have been talking, the cars have arrived at this place, five miles west of C.H. Mill's station. Elevation, 2,421 feet. This is a regular eating station, and an excellent table will be found at the Railroad House, kept by Curley & More. The company has a large depot here, this being the distributing point for freight bound for Grass Valley, Nevada, and a large scope of mining country. The town is named in honor of Schuyler Colfax, one of the warmest friends and earliest supporters of the road.
Colfax is one of the prettiest and most substantial of the railroad towns. It contains about 200 buildings, some of brick, the remainder of wood. There are three hotels, one church, several saloons, Odd Fellows' and Masons' halls, etc. The town contains about 1,000 inhabitants, is well watered, and has an air of general thrift about it, which marks all the permanent towns along the road.
The Iowa Hill line runs daily stages to Iowa Hill, 12 miles. The Telegraph Stage Line Co., C.J. Shaw, agent, run daily lines to Grass Valley, 13 miles; Nevada, 17 miles; North San Juan, 29 miles; Camptonville, 41 miles; Forest Hill City, 60 miles, and Downieville, 75 miles. Fast freight for Nevada, Grass Valley, San Juan, Little York, You Bet, is taken on four-horse express wagons by an enterprising line. But the regular freighting goes a little slower, generally. The Grass Valley and Nevada freight is a very important item in the business of the railroad; these large towns receiving all their freight from this point. Iowa Hill and the mining country across the American river is supplied from this station.
As the traveler may desire to visit some of the California towns, we will give a few items regarding some connected by stage with Colfax.
This thriving mining town lies thirteen miles northerly from Colfax, and contains about 5,000 inhabitants. It is a beautiful town,—one of those lovely places only met with in the California mines. It contains numerous fine buildings, public and private. The private dwellings, generally, are enclosed in fine orchards and gardens, which give an air of comfort and home-like beauty rarely met with. The town derives its prominence from the quartz mines in and around it. No town in the State has produced an equal amount of gold from
)
Click to view
Page 170
quartz; none has added more real wealth to the State at large.
The Grass Valley National, Democratic, daily, and Grass Valley Union, daily, are well conducted journals, very zealous in their local interests. The schools are among the best, and well attended. The churches, which are neat, tasty structures, represent several denominations. The Orphan Asylum, under charge of the Sisters of Mercy, is a noble edifice, a credit to the community, and in its management it reflects honor on those noble ladies whose lives are devoted to alleviating the sufferings of others.
There are four of these necessary institutions here, of which the Exchange, kept by Charley Smith, is the most noted resort for travelers.
The town is connected with Nevada and the northern towns by stage; also with Marysville.
In September, 1850, a miner picked up a piece of gold-bearing quartz on Gold Hill. From this prospecting commenced, and soon several valuable mines were opened. In 1851 the first quartz mill was erected in Boston ravine, now one of the most populous portions of the town. We can only give the names of a few of the most noted lodes, which have rendered this the foremost mining town in the State. They are the Allison Ranch vein, Rocky Bar vein, Eureka and the Old Emperor's vein. The quartz mills are all supplied with all the modern improvements milling the ore with little loss. There are many of these structures in and around town, thousands of dollars being invested in this property. The custom mills work rock very cheap, affording prospectors an opportunity to test their discoveries. From our knowledge of Grass Valley and the quartz belt of Nevada county, we would advise prospectors to try their luck in that section, in preference to running after any excitements in other and less favored localities.
The county seat of Nevada county, is situated on Deer ceeek, four miles from Grass Valley, and contains about 4,000 inhabitants. It is rather irregularly laid out, owing to the formation of the land, and the creek which runs through a portion of the town. The county buildings are very fine, the jail one of the best in the State. There are many elegant private residences, and in all parts of the city we find the tasty gardens, flourishing orchards and vineyards, their bright green foliage contrasting strikingly with the brown or red hillsides.
The Nevada Transcript and Nevada Gazette, Republican, dailies, are first-class local journals, and deserving of success. Nevada boasts of her public schools, and justly too—for in no county in the State is the educational interest more flourishing or better represented. The several denominations have fine churches, which are very well attended. The colored citizens of Nevada have a church of their own, and a large congregation, considering the number of that class of citizens,
The city contains several, the leading ones being the National, by J. Lancaster, and the Union (the largest frame building in the State), by Eaton & Williamson. We can recommend both, and besides we will add, do not leave Nevada until you "go to 'Blaze's.'"
Nevada is connected by stage with Marysville, via Grass Valley; Dutch Flat, via Little York and You Bet; North San Juan and Downieville.
The first mining in Nevada was placer, creek and gulch-washing. The
)
Click to view
Page 171
mines were very rich, and lasted several years. During this time, the famous hill "diggings," a part of the "old river bed," were discovered and opened. They, too, proved a source of great wealth, though many miners became "dead broke" before the right system—hydraulic mining with long flumes—was inaugurated. These mines proved very extensive and lasting, and yet form one of the chief sources of the city's wealth. Of late years the attention of the people has been directed to cement and quartz mining, and several very valuable quartz veins have been opened, and fine mills erected on them. The quartz interest is now a decided feature in the business of the city.
A hydraulic mining town, situated in the richest part of the "deep digging," 29 miles from Nevada, is one of the liveliest mining towns to be met with, and contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The town is surrounded by orchards and vineyards, and the residences are fairly embowered in flowers. The township in which San Juan is located produces over $1,300,000 in gold annually.
Forty-one miles from Nevada, is a small mining town in Yuba county, containing about 500 inhabitants. It is dependent on placer mining, and has a portion of the "old channel" or hill mines in its immediate vicinity.
Sixty miles from Nevada, is also a Milling town of 400 inhabitants, situated in Sierra county. The mines are "drift diggings."
The largest town in Sierra county, 75 miles from Nevada, situated on the Yuba river, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. It is a flourishing town, neatly built, containing many elegant private and public buildings, including several good hotels. The Downieville Messenger, weekly, is published here,—an excellent mountain journal
We will now return to Nevada, adding, as a parting word, that these places are all accessible by stage from Colfax, via Nevada and Grass Valley. We will now note the towns lying on another stage route.
Or, Graniteville, a small quartz mining town, 28 miles from Nevada. It is situated in the midst of a rich quartz section, has several quartz mills, and is a thriving town. Connected with Nevada by stage. Population, 800.
On the stage road from Nevada to this place, we find
Eleven miles from Nevada. A small mining town, dependent on placer mines. Population, 250. Three miles beyond, we come to
Or Humbug, a mining town of about 350 inhabitants. Deep and rich "diggings" are found here, but the want of proper drainage prevents them from being worked to advantage. With this defect remedied, Humbug would be humbug no longer.
Six miles further on, we arrive at
A rather fine mining town of about 600 inhabitants. The mines are placer, deep washing, have been very rich, and are still paying. The town contains many good buildings and a Catholic Church.
Between Bloomfield and Moore's Flat is the little mining town of
Once a populous mining town, now nearly deserted, probably not over 50 or 75 people remaining there.
We must not forget to mention the
A fine mile-track, situated half-way between Nevada and Grass Valley. It is located in a little valley, surrounded by low hills and is kept in excellent order. It is claimed that the fastest time ever
)
Click to view
Page 172
made in the State has been made on this track. It is owned and kept by Ned Pratt.
We will now return to Colfax and see what towns there are to note in the opposite direction.
IOWA HILL, a mining town, 12 miles south of Colfax. A good toll road crosses the American river on the bridge which we saw when rounding Cape Horn, and follow up the mountain to the town, which contains about 600 inhabitants.
ILLINOIS TOWN, about half a mile west of Colfax, once a noted freighting point for the surrounding mines. It now contains about 100 inhabitants. Some of the finest apple and peach orchards in this section are found here, the attention of the inhabitants being directed to fruitgrowing and farming.
Leaving Colfax, we resume our journey. Following down Auburn ravine, at times near its bed and anon winding in and out among the hills, passing cosy little ranches, we reach
Once a thriving camp, now only a depot for the freight needed in this vicinity. Elevation, 1,757 feet. We leave the ravine and keep along among the foothills to hold the grade, and after passing through many an old washed placer mine, we arrive at
This is the county seat of Placer county, a town of 1,000 inhabitants. Elevation, 1,362 feet. Gardens and orchards abound, and everything betokens quiet, home-comforts and ease. It has excellent schools and fine churches, and is one of the neatest looking towns in the county, though not as lively as regards business, freight and travel. The public buildings, court-house, etc., are good, and the ground well kept. The greater part of the dwellings stand a little distance from the road.
The principal hotels of Auburn are the American, Orleans, and Railroad House. The Stars and Stripes, Republican, and the Placer Herald, Democratic, both weekly newspapers, are published here.
STAGES, run daily from this point to Pilot Hill, six miles; Cave Valley, six miles; Greenwood, twelve miles; and Georgetown, seventeen miles. The Auburn Stage Line to Forest Hill, 21 miles, and Michigan Bluffs, 30 miles. Also Trescot's or Citizen's lines to Placerville, 29 miles, via Alabaster Cave, Pilot Hill, Coloma and Cold Springs.
This most remarkable cave is situated 8 miles southeast of Auburn on Kidd's Ravine, about a mile above its junction with the north fork of American river. As we cannot afford the space necessary for a full description, we can do no better than to copy the announcement that was made by the first explorer, Mr. Gwynn, and published in the Sacramento Bee, August 19th, 1860. He says:
"Wonders will never cease. On yesterday, we, in quarrying rock, made an opening to the most beautiful cave you ever beheld. On our first entrance, we descended about 15 feet, gradually to the centre of the room, which is 100x30 feet. At the north end there is a most magnificent pulpit in the Episcopal Church style that man ever has seen. It seems that it is, and should be called, the 'Holy of Holies.' It is completed with the most beautiful drapery of alabaster sterites, of all colors, varying from white to pink-red, overhanging the beholder. Immediately under the pulpit there is a beautiful lake of water, extending to an unknown distance. We thought this all, but, to our great admiration, on arriving at the centre of the first room, we saw an entrance to an inner chamber still more splendid, 200x100 feet, with most beautiful alabaster overhangings, in every possible shape of drapery. Here stands magnitude, giving the instant impression of a power above man; grandeur that defies decay; antiquity that tells of ages unnumbered; beauty which the touch of time makes more beautiful use exhausts less for the service of man; strength impesrishable as the globe, the monument of eternity—the truest emblem of that
)
Click to view
Page 173
everlasting and unchangeable, irresistible Majesty, by whom, and for whom, all things were made."
Soon after leaving Auburn we pass through "Bloomer Cut" (See Illustration -view image- ), then over Newcastle Gap bridge, 528 feet long, and 60 feet high; and five miles brings us to
Elevation, 969 feet. It is but a small place, containing about 200 inhabitants. We pass on through little valleys and among low hills, with evidences of past and a little present mining.
Off to the right are the old time mining camps of Ophir, Virginia City, Gold Hill, and several others, where yet considerable placer mining is indulged in by the old settlers, who are good for nothing else. There is a miner's cabin under yonder tree, with a little patch of garden, and—yes, a rose-bush in front. Look! old '49 comes to the door, pipe in mouth, a twenty years' beard sweeping his bosom, and gazes on the passing train. Look with what a deprecating gesture he admits the fact that the railroad has got ahead of his time, and is sending its loads of rosy-cheeked women into the country to disturb his peace and quietness. Sadly he turns to enter his lonely cabin, when we read on the seat of his unmentionables, " Warranted 98 lbs., superior quality." Poor fellow, who knows but that the next time we pass this way, we may behold another man, outwardly, but still the same. The beard will have been trimmed, the house "tidied" up, the flour-sack patched limb-shrouders will have given place to "store-clothes," and a smiling, rosy face, surmounted by a waterfall, will look out of the doorway of what is now a real home. So mote it be.
Just after leaving Newcastle, we catch the first glimpse of the beautiful valley of the Sacramento, from the windows on the right-hand side the cars.
Six miles west of Newcastle. Elevation, 403 feet. Still among the low hills, covered with chaparral, manzanita and grease-wood, the road winds onward for three miles further, passing several valuable quarries, to the right and left, when we arrive at
Elevation, 248 feet. Here the company have a machine shop and round-house of 28 stalls, built in the most substantial manner, of granite obtained near by. The celebrated Rocklin Granite Quarries are close to the station, on the left-hand side of the road. The granite obtained here is of excellent quality, and does not stain on exposure to the weather.
We leave Rocklin, and with it the foothills, the country now opening out into the plains, or the valley bordering the American river. The country is still somewhat uneven, but we have no more hills to encounter. We are rapidly descending while winding around on a regular grade for three miles, and we arrive at
A regular eating station. Elevation, 163 feet.
Here the Central connects with the Sacramento and Marysville—or California and Oregon R.R. Passengers for Northern California and Oregon will need to change cars. The train is waiting; let us step on board, visit a few of the cities and towns, and see what there is to be seen.
The California and Oregon Railroad is owned by the Central Pacific Company, and under the same management. It is now completed over 100 miles north of this place, and is being pushed rapidly forward to Portland, Oregon, its present objective point, where it will tap the enormous trade of the Columbia River and its numerous tributaries. Yet the time is not far distant (in the age of nations) when passengers will hear, on arriving at this station, "All aboard for Puget Sound, Hudson Bay, Alaska and Behring Straits; close connections made with the Yankee Tunnel Company, under Behring Straits for all points in Russia, China, Japan, Germany, England, France, and the Holy Land!"
)
Click to view
Page 174
Leaving the Junction, we are whirled along over a fine road-bed, in and out among the foot-hills, with rapid and ever-changing scenery on either hand; ten miles brings us to Lincoln, then four to Ewings, four to Sheridan, three to Wheatland, six to Reeds, and five more to
The first place of much importance on the road. Yuba City has a population of about 1,000; it is situated on the eastern bank of the Feather River, just above its junction with the Yuba. It is the county-seat of Sutter county, first settled in 1849. It has good schools and churches, and a weekly newspaper, the Banner. The county was named after Gen. Sutter, the old pioneer, at whose mill-race at Coloma, El Dorado county, on the south fork of the American River, January 19th, 1848, the first gold was discovered in California. The county has a population of about 6,000, mostly engaged in agriculture. The soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of wheat, oats and barley, there are also some very fine vineyards, producing a superior quality of fruit, from which over 30,000 gallons of wine and brandy are made annually.
Yuba City is at the head of steamboat navigation, and in addition to the California & Oregon Railroad, it is connected with Sacramento and San Francisco by the California Pacific R.R. via Vallejo. Don't fail to visit
A noted landmark near the city. They consist of a series of peaks that rise from the crest of an isolated mountain range which stands bold and clear among the plains. From appearances, one would be led to suppose that this ridge crossed the valley at one time, when this was an inland sea; and when the waters escaped from the lower valley, those confined above cut a portion of the ridge down level with the plain, and escaping, left a beautiful valley above.
Let us take a climb to the summit of their bald peaks, and from thence view a portion of the valley, fair, bright and smiling with God's best gift to man. Away to the northward 220 miles, in latitude 41° 30', is
An insulated and lofty volcanic mountain, over 14,440 feet high. It is covered with perpetual snow, and is the head and source of the Sacramento river. To the northwest, in the Coast Range of mountains, can be distinctly seen Mt. Linn, St. John, and Ripley. On the south, Mt. Diablo, in the Contra Costa range, while on the east, from north to south, are the long range of the Sierra Nevadas as far as the eye can reach. Returning to Yuba City, we cross Feather River bridge two miles to
One of the prettiest towns in the State. It is the county seat of Yuba county, situated on the north bank of the Yuba river, with a population of over 6,000. It was first settled in 1849, and named in honor of the only white woman within its limits, Mrs. Mary Covilland. The town is built of brick, the streets wide, and laid out at right angles. The chief beauty of Marysville consists in the shrubbery which ornaments the town, though there are many elegant public buildings and private residences in the city. Scarcely will you find a dwelling that is not surrounded in a forest of fruit and shade trees or embowered in a mass of vines and flowers. During the past few years the town has been improving rapidly. It carries on an extensive trade with the northern part of the State, and now it may be classed as the fourth commercial town in the State.
Marysville has two newspapers. The Appeal, daily and weekly, a radical republican, is the oldest. The Standard, daily, independent. It has two seminaries, four public and numerous private schools, which are of a high order and well attended. There are also some five churches, nearly all denominations being represented. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with water from an ar-
)
Click to view
Page 175
tesian well 300 feet deep, from which it is elevated by steam power to a reservoir, and thence conducted all over the city. It has quite a number of manufactories—such as carriage, sash and door, breweries, woolen mills, flour mills, &c.; also an extensive iron foundry and machine shop, where are manufactured all kinds of mill machinery, stationary engines, &c.
Agriculture is now the principal source of wealth of the county. Fruit culture and stock raising are very remunerative. There is still considerable good government land awaiting the emigrant, and some fine timber land along the base of the mountains. There are 18 saw-mills in the county, engaged in sawing timber and lumber, which is shipped down the river. Most of the mining is now done by hydraulic process. There are 12 quartz mills in the county, and 26 companies owning canals, or mining ditches, one of which, the Excelsior, cost over $500,000, and, with its branches, is over 150 miles in length.
There are regular stage lines from Marysville to Colusa, 29 miles; Downieville, 65 miles; North San Juan, 38 miles; Grass Valley, 36 miles; and Nevada, 40 miles. In addition to the California & Oregon Railroad, there are two other lines which have their termini at Marysville—the California Pacific Railroad, for Sacramento and San Francisco, via Vallejo, and the Northern California Railroad, running to
Twenty six miles distant. This town has a population of about 2,500, and is the county seat of Butte county. Placer mining is the principal employment of the people. The mines around this town were very rich and extensive, and have been worked for many years. The town possesses the general characteristics of the old mining towns, beautiful gardens and orchards, which give to these places an indescribable charm. This county possesses some of the finest agricultural land in the State. All kinds of grain and produce are raised in abundance. The vineyards are numerous, producing over 35,000 gallons of wine and brandy annually. Raisins are produced in large quantities, and an immense amount of peanuts are gathered for market every year. Stock raising is also an important feature. Wool is a staple export of the county, one herd alone of sheep numbering 9,000. Schools and churches are in a flourishing condition, a sure evidence of a people's prosperity. The Record, a weekly paper, is published here. Stages leave Oroville regularly for La Porte, 52 miles; Susanville, 105 miles; as well as to most of the adjoining towns.
Returning to Marysville, we again seat ourselves in the cars, on the C. & O. Railroad, and start again to the northward passing through a fine section of country. Seventeen miles brings us to Gridley, three more to Biggs, ten to Nelson, seven to Durham, two to Roble, and four more to
One of the prettiest towns in the State. It is 43 miles from Marysville, 95 from Sacramento, 25 northwest from Oroville, and 5 miles east of the Sacramento river, situated in Chico valley, Butte county, in the midst of as rich a farming section as the State affords. Population 2,500, and increasing rapidly. It has good schools and churches, and one newspaper, the Northern Enterprise. Near the town, General Bidwell, the old pioneer, has an extensive ranch, or farm, as it would be called in the eastern States, which is in a very high state of cultivation, producing abundantly all kinds of fruits and plants of the temperate and semi-tropical clime.
From Chico it is 7 miles to Nord, 8 more to Soto, 4 to Vina, and 8 to Sesma, 27 miles north, which at present (April 1st, 1871) is the end of the track; but the road is being pushed ahead, and before another season will be at
and possibly further. Red Bluff is the county-seat of Tehama county, at the head of navigation on the Sacramento
)
Click to view
Page 176
River, with a population of about 2,000, and rapidly increasing. It is situated in the midst of rich agricultural and grazing lands, with thriving vineyards, producing over 30,000 gallons of wine and brandy annually. It has several good hotels, two weekly newspapers—the Independent, and the Sentinel. The California Pacific Company proposes to extend their road to this town, which will give it another connection with Sacramento and San Francisco, via Woodland and Vallejo. The California and Oregon stages for the north, and several other stage lines, connect the adjoining towns.
Returning to the Junction, we proceed over a level country dotted with oaks of several varieties, three miles, to
A small station. Elevation, 154 feet. Seven miles more are passed, and we arrive at
Elevation, 55 feet. We now proceed at a merry rate over the level meadows. Four miles from Arcade the long train slowly crosses a long stretch of trestle work through the marsh lands, and then over the
which spans the main stream, and now we pass along by the orchards and gardens which fringe the suburbs of the capital of California—Sacramento City. The grand dome of the State Capitol rises clear and distinct against the soft sunny California sky, but now the long line of machine shops shuts out the view. We pass by them, and are now on the bank of the Sacramento river, with solid blocks of brick stores on our left and the crowded wharves on our right. Three miles from the bridge the train enters the long line of depots, the clatter of the iron wheels ceases, the locomotive gives a triumphant salute, as we stop at
Which was the western terminus of the grand trans-continental railroad until the spring of 1870. Upon the completion of the Western Pacific from Sacramento to San Francisco, the two roads were consolidated under the name of the Central Pacific Railroad of California, making one unbroken line from San Francisco to Ogden, 882 miles long. Elevation, 30 feet. Distance from Sacramento to Omaha, 1,776 18/100 miles; Kansas City, 2,002 miles; to Stockton, 50 miles; San Francisco, 138 miles; Vallejo, 60 miles; Marysville, 52 miles; Portland, Oregon, 642 miles. This is the end of the Sacramento and the commencement of the Western Division.
But we promised to tell you where to go, and who to stop with. Sacramento has many good hotels. There is little difference in any of them. The Orleans, Golden Eagle, and Capitol, are the most frequented by tourists. You will find "free busses" at the depot that will take you to any of them. We will now take a look at
It is situated on the east bank of the Sacramento river, south of the American, which unites with the Sacramento at this point. The city is mostly built of brick; the streets are broad, well-paved, and bordered with shade trees throughout a large portion of the city. It contains numerous elegant public and private buildings, including the State Capitol and county buildings. The population of the city numbers 16,484 by last census, and is rapidly increasing.
Sacramento has six newspapers, four of which are dailies:—the Union—established 1851—daily and weekly, independent in politics; the Bee, Republican, daily and weekly; the Record—presided over by the frisky and pungent Bowman—daily and weekly, Republican; the State Capitol Reporter, daily and weekly, Democratic; the Journal, a semi-weekly German; and the Rescue, a weekly temperance paper.
Churches of nearly all denominations, and public and private schools, are numerous. There are two Orphan Asylums one Catholic, by the Sisters of St. Joseph—and the other Protestant. So the
)
Click to view
Page 177
Bloomer Cut—85 feet deep and 800 feet long—Sierra Nevada Mountains, C.P.R.R.—(From photograph.)
)
Click to view
Page 178
orphans need not suffer, as they are well attended to.
Masons, Odd Fellows, and many other secret associations, have lodges and meetings here. The city is lighted with gas, and watered from the river by the aid of two pumps, with a lifting capacity of about 90,000 gallons per hour.
There is much of interest in Sacramento to the traveler, aside from the fact of its being the capital of the State, and the centre of the railroad system, which has given new life and impetus to the inland commerce of the State. Sacramento is the heart, so to speak, of this system of iron arteries, whose pulsations reach even to the Atlantic seaboard on the east, and to those far-away and almost unknown nations of the west—the oldest, though the least known and appreciated, of all the nations with whom commerce has connected our western shores. Aside from these facts, which render the city one of interest in a geographical and commercial point of view, there is a quiet beauty peculiar to this city alone, which renders it attractive to the most careless of travelers. Its well shaded streets—its beautiful gardens, blooming with an almost tropical luxuriance—its vineyards and orchards—all combine to form a city such as one rarely meets with in California, and nowhere else.
Sacramento is endeared to Californians, not by reason of her present beauty and prosperity, but because she is truly an American city, whose people, by their indomitable energy and perseverance, have raised this monument to our national character, despite the ravages of fire and flood. Not only have they rebuilt their city, but they have built the ground on which it stands, and today the city stands some ten feet above the original site on which Sacramento was first established.
From the small and unimportant hamlet of a few years ago, it has emerged a thriving, bustling city. Fires burned the young city to the ground; but it rose, Phoenix like, more beautiful than ever. The floods swept over it as with a besom of destruction in the winter of '51-2, and the waters were rushing with irresistible force through every street. When they abated, the people went to work and built levees around their city, and fancied themselves secure. Again the floods came in the winter of '61-62; Sacramento was again inundated. To guard against a recurrence of these evils, the city bed was raised above the highest known tide, and instead of wearing away a levee, the angry waters find a solid mass of earth, on which stands the city, against which their efforts at destruction are futile. To one who has not resided on this coast, it may at first seem strange that a city should have been located in the midst of such dangers. When Sacramento was laid out, both the Sacramento and American rivers had bold banks, above the reach of any floods. But when the thousands of miners commenced tearing down the mountains and pouring the debris into the rivers, the sediment gradually filled up the river bed from 12 to 18 feet above its former level. Consequently, when the spring sun unlocked the vast volume of water confined in the mountain snows, and sent it foaming and seething in its mad power to the plains, the old and half filled channel could not contain it, and a large body of country was annually inundated. Levees were tried in vain; the mighty torrent would not be confined; hence the necessity of raising the city above its ravages. This has been accomplished; and beyond the present line of high grade, a powerful levee surrounds the unfilled portion of the city, on which is a railroad track, forming an iron circle or band, which no past floods had power to break.
The city is laid out in a regular square, the streets running at right angles, fronting on the Sacramento river, which here runs nearly north and south. They are numbered from the river, 1, 2, 3, etc. Those running from the river back, or east and west, are numbered with the alphabet, A, B, C, etc. It is probable that in time, that portion of the town, which consists mostly of private resi-
)
Click to view
Page 179
dences, will be raised to the high grade; but whether it be raised or remain at its present grade, it is equally secure against floods, being hemmed in by the high grades and the levees, which are guarded and kept in repair by the various railroad companies whose lines center in the city.
One of the first objects which meets the eye when approaching Sacramento, is the dome of the STATE CAPITOL building. It is a conspicuous landmark, and a grand feature of the plains. The building occupies the center of four blocks, fronting on Broadway.
The general plan of the building can be thus described: It presents a front of 320 feet. Facing the main avenue, in the centre of the front, a flight of granite steps, 25 feet high by 80 feet in width, lead to a front portico of ten columns, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found, in the exact centre; and from this, in each story, halls, elegantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State offices being on either side. The wings forming the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks of the building form, respectively, the Assembly and Senate chambers, the former being 82x72, and the latter 72x62. In the rear centre a circular projection of 60 feet diameter forms the State Library. These three apartments are 46 feet high from floor to ceiling, and are unsurpassed in elegance of design and finish—especially the Library, which is surmounted by a beautiful dome, resting on two circular rows of Corinthian columns, the different stories or shelves being arranged so that the books are all within reach. Rows of similar columns are under the galleries of the legislative halls at the ends, while the sides spring from pilasters, and terminate in a light-groined full arch. The ceiling, which terminates in a cone at the sides, is elaborately finished with flowers and enriched bands. The sinkings are three feet deep, flowers and fruits indigenous to the State forming their ornaments. The Speaker's desk occupies the east end, and is of mahogany of elegant design. The panels and pedestals under the windows (which are finished with plate glass in two lights to a window), are of the beautiful laurel, well known in California for its susceptibility to receive a high polish. All the first floor doors are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the sash throughout the building.
The whole interior is one solid mass of iron and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, is exceedingly handsome. It rises 127 feet, with an outside dome over this nearly 100 feet higher, surrounded by a portico of columns, and surmounted by the statue of California, all of iron. It is not entirely finished. It is now nearly 80 feet high, surmounted by an iron balustrade, on a massive and elegant Corinthian cornice of over four feet projection. The cornice is cast iron; also the 72 caps of pilasters, window frames, panels, pedestals, belts, &c. The 22 columns, 40 feet high, four of which are up, are of the same material. The first story of 25 feet is of white granite, from neighboring quarries, and is surmounted by a cornice of the same.
The Capitol Commissioners concluded to change the material, and with the advice of their architect, the granite was abandoned in 1866. He informed them he could not produce the effect and lightness of the florid Roman-Corinthian architecture with this material. Mr. Clark was appointed the first architect, and conducted the building satisfactorily, from the heavy foundation until the walls were some twelve feet from the street level, when he became ill, and soon after died.
On the 1st of January, 1866, the commissioners appointed the present architect, Gordon P. Cummings, formerly of Philadelphia, who was well known as the first of his art on the coast.
Gas and water are supplied to every department in the building, nearly 70 in number, including the Supreme Court
)
Click to view
Page 180
room, which is under the library. The stories are, respectively, 21 feet 6 inches, 20 feet and 18 feet in height. The building will cost, when completed, over $2,000,000. It covers, with its angles, nearly 60,000 surface feet of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. For the three principal chambers, the gas fixtures cost nearly $3,000, and is lighted by electricity. It is now occupied by the Legislature and State officers.
Within the city are three flour mills, with a capacity of 1,200 barrels per day in the aggregate; two foundries and machine shops, where engines and mill machinery are made; a woolen mill, a manufactory of beet sugar, and many others of lesser note. But among all, the
Of the Central Pacific Railroad stand foremost. They are situated on the cast bank of the Old Slough, between that and the American river, and with the tracks, yards, etc., cover about 20 acres. The buildings first erected are of wood, still standing and in use. The new buildings are of brick, comprising a machine, car, paint and blacksmith shops, round-house and several other buildings.
This building is 90 by 130 feet, with an L, 46 by 90. The foundation of this building rests on piles, 1,500 in number, driven to the solid gravel, and their tops left below the water line, 12 feet below the surface of the ground. This space is filled with 6,000 yards of solid masonry, rough ashlar, the material being Rocklin granite, bringing the foundation level with the top of the ground. The description of the foundation of this building answers for the others, all being built alike.
On the roof of the main building is a water tank, holding 12,000 gallons. The machinery is in the centre of the shop, with passages on each side. The rough timber is brought in at one end of the shop, the new car goes out at the other. There are three lines of shafting through the car shop. In the second story are the offices of the department of motive power and machinery, which are fitted up in the most convenient manner. About 150 men are employed here, under the charge of Mr. Welch. Capacity of the shop, 30 box or 40 flats per week; coaches in proportion. The cars manufactured here are equal to the best in material, manufacture and finish. It will not be long before all the cars used on the road will be made in the company's shop.
Of which there are two connected with the car department, employ about 50 men. One of the shops is 40 by 200 feet; the other is a trifle smaller. It is a noted fact that the cars on both the C.P. and, U.P.R.R. are far superior in size, style and finish to those on the majority of the eastern roads, and for strength and completeness of the arrangements for comfort in riding, they have no superior on any road.
Is 100 by 205 feet, 23 feet high, with a false end, calculated for extending the length of the building, as circumstances may require. The car shop is built in the same manner. The company have another machine shop situated on J street, near Front, 116x36, with a 36 horse-power engine. A prominent feature of the first-named machine shop is the shifting table, by which the heaviest locomotive can be lifted, swung over the others, and conveyed to any stall. In this shop and the round-house every kind of machine work can be observed in detail. All of the latest and most approved styles of machinery, lathes, boring, shaving and planing machines, hydraulic presses, &c., may be seen in operation. In speaking of this work, we will class it as
)
Click to view
Page 181
Under charge of Mr. Geo. D. Welch. This department employs about 350 men, who are engaged in repairing and overhauling locomotives, making tanks, repairing and making boilers, and many other things, the use of which, or the names, we could not determine. They are able to meet all demands, making almost every part of a locomotive, and soon they will be prepared to manufacture their own locomotives, car-wheels, &c., instead of importing them.
The new locomotives are shipped in pieces and "set up" in the shop. The principal
is of brick, of corresponding size with the other shops. It will contain from 30 to 40 forges, employing about 100 men. Two fires are used exclusively to work over old axles. On J street near Front, the Company have another shop, 40x80. Also a
where all the castings used by the company are made—except car wheels—and arrangements are making which will enable them soon to make them.
Contains 28 stalls, and is a splendid brick structure. The turn-table is of new design, and very large. Behind the round-house is a polygon-shaped brick building, with heavy buttresses at each angle, containing the oil and water tanks, also a store-room. The oil-tank is about half and half above and below the surface of the ground. The building is 30 feet in diameter in the clear, with a brick column in the centre, which arches out, forming the first floor. This oil-cellar has seven vats, with pipes reaching through the groined roof. The second story, or first floor above the basement, is for a general store-room. The floor above is boiler-iron, with iron
We commend the Chinese credit system, one-half cash down, when ordering a bill of goods, the other half on delivery.
joists to support it. This floor is for the officers' quarters. Above this, and on top of the building, is the water-tank containing 45,000 gallons. It is connected with every part of the round-house by hose, and calculated for washing out the engines and stalls. A winding outside staircase reaches to the top of the building, with landings at each floor.
Which furnishes the power with which to work all this machinery is a Corliss, 20-inch cylinder, 4 1/2 feet stroke, 80 horse power, nominal. The fly-wheel is 18 feet in diameter, weighs 14 tons. The furnace chimney is 92 feet high, built of brick, with 3/8 of an inch batter, giving six feet taper. It is surmounted by an iron cap of a ton's weight. The chimney rests on a brick foundation, containing 60,000 brick, which in turn rests on 49 piles. There are two immense boilers resting on this foundation also, which are fitted with every modern improvement, including Clark's patent damper regular, a regular automaton engineer. Each boiler is supplied with a four-inch steam pump, Cross's patent, and a Knowles' patent feed or water heater. Water is obtained by means of two artesian wells, each 13-inch pipes and 75 feet deep. Two lift-pumps 6 1/2 inch bore, raise the water into the tanks on the buildings, from thence to the tank behind the round-house. Pipes run through the various buildings with hose attached, and in case of fire a hundred streams could be brought to bear on any given point in the shops.
The store-house is a large structure, capable of storing many tons of iron. The amount of iron, in all shapes and stages of manufacture, that meets the eye here, slightly astonishes the beholder, unless he comes from the iron mines. Shafts, axles, car-wheels, piles of flat, square and round iron meet him at every turn, until, despairing of estimating the amount, he gives up the job in disgust.
The first locomotive ran in California
)
Click to view
Page 182
can be seen here, used for the purpose of running the work-cars from point to point among the shops. It was built at the Norris Works, Philadelphia, and was first used in this State on the Market Street Railroad, San Francisco.
Belonging to the Railroad Company is a large, airy and comfortable building, located near the shops, where their men are taken care of when sick or disabled. It is well conducted, a credit to the company, and of incalculable benefit to those unfortunates who are obliged to seek its shelter. The company grounds cover 15 acres, which has been filled up to grade with the sand and gravel from the bed of the American River.
We now propose to visit a few of the most prominent towns adjoining Sacramento on the different lines of travel. The California Steam Navigation Co. dispatch daily light draft boats
Let us go on board. The first thing after leaving the city which attracts our attention is what is called
"Tuiles," is the native name given to the large rushes which cover the low lands along the rivers and bays of California. They are of the bulrush family—probably the fathers of all rushes. They grow from six to ten feet high, and so thick on the ground that it is extremely difficult to pass among them. The lands on which they grow are subject to annual overflows. During the prevalence of the floods, miles on miles of these lands are under water, presenting the appearance of one vast lake or inland sea. In the fall and early winters when the tules are dry, they are often set on fire—forming a grand and terrible spectacle, especially during the night. When once the fire attains headway, nothing can quench its fury until the tules are swept away to the bank of some water-course which bars its further progress.
The soil composing the land is adobe, of a purely vegetable mould. Wherever it has been reclaimed, it produces grain and vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. It is claimed by many, that, with proper appliances, these lands could be converted into magnificent rice fields, the advocates of this measure asserting that they possess every requisite of soil, clime, and adaptability to irrigation.
The State has provided for a system of levees, by which it is hoped the land may be reclaimed, and should the result prove satisfactory, many thousand acres of the richest soil in the State will be opened for occupancy by the emigrant. The country, after leaving Sacramento, is level for a vast distance on either band, the "tules" are disappearing, and before we reach Knight's Landing the left-hand shore is more bold, and the wheat fields and gardens have taken the place of "tule" along the river bank.
If the traveler wishes to visit Marysville, he can do so by rail or water. We have already pointed out the former route. Now let us go, via FEATHER RIVER, a beautiful stream, its clear waters contrasting to advantage with the muddy waters of the river we have left. We pass through a fine country with wheat farms on the higher lands and reach Nicholas, a dull, quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situated at the junction of Bear River with the Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we pass
The home of the venerable pioneer of California, General Sutter. It is a lovely place, the old farm-house and iron fort standing on the bank of the stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank, while behind them can be seen the fine orchards and vineyards planted by the General 40 years ago. The General settled in California under a grant from the Russian Government, which conveyed to him large tracts of land around Sacramento City, including the city site; also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived the old pioneer of most of his
)
Click to view
Page 183
property, leaving him with nothing except this farm.
Passing on by the junction of the Yuba and Feather Rivers, we soon reach Marysville, 65 miles from Sacramento, by water. [Description on a preceding page.]
A small place—46 miles from Sacramento. It is quite a shipping point for Yolo county, and is on the line of the California Pacific Railroad to Marysville. Population, 800.
For a long distance above Knight's Landing the low marshy plains continue on our right, the higher land covered with wheat on our left, with no towns of any importance to note until we arrive at
This is a point of considerable trade, 125 miles from Sacramento. It is the county seat of Colusa county, situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River, and contains about 1,200 inhabitants. The Colusa Sun, a Democratic paper, is published here.
The town was laid out in 1850, by Colonel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa Grant," containing two Spanish leagues. It is now the center of a very large farming and grazing country. Schools and churches are well represented. Stages run daily between Colusa and Marysville, 29 miles. The HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS of Colusa county are situated 20 miles west of the town, and is somewhat noted as a resort for invalids. Sulphur is also found in large deposits.
Passing on up the river, the country seems to gradually change to a grazing instead of a grain country, more especially on the west. 199 miles brings us to
As we have already described the town, we will pass on up the river, which, on
The Indians call the telegraph the "whispering spirit."
the right hand side, the shores are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only for grazing when the floods have subsided. Yet we pass intervals of grain fields till we arrive at Red Bluffs, 270 miles from Sacramento, at the head of navigation. [See previous description of the town.] Returning to Sacramento, we take the cars of the CALIFORNIA PACIFIC RAILROAD, and cross the Sacramento River on their new bridge, which is 600 feet long, and one of the finest structures of the kind in the State.
is the first town, just across the river, with a population of about 300. Leaving Washington, we cross the "Tules"—a broad belt of overflowed swamp land on an embankment and trestle bridge, raised above the annual floods, until we reach the highlands, or elevated plains. The trestle bridge affords ample passage for the flood tides.
is the next town, 14 miles west on the road from Vallejo to Marysville, via Woodland. It has a population of about 800. The Advertiser, a weekly, paper, is published here. Davisville is in the midst of a fine wheat country, and will remain a point of shipment for the vast crops annually raised in that vicinity.
Turning to the northward, the next station of importance is
The county seat of Yolo county, 9 miles distant. It is situated 3 miles west of Cache creek, in the midst of an extensive plain. The town has improved very rapidly during the past two years, and is now one of the most thriving in the State. Yolo county in the summer is one vast wheat-field,—far, almost, as the eye can reach, the waving wheat stretches away on either hand.
It is a sight worth seeing, to behold these fields of grain, and to observe the process of harvesting them. Through this wheat country we find few fences, often seeing none in half a day's ride.
Woodland has a population of 2,000,
)
Click to view
Page 184
with good schools and churches. There are two weekly papers printed here—the Yolo Mail, and the Yolo Democrat. Large shipments of grain, wood, and live stock are made daily.
The Marysville branch of the California Pacific Railroad is now completed via Knight's Landing, 10 miles; Sutter, 11; and Marysville, 12 miles. Distance from Sacramento to Marysville by this route, 56 miles. The main trunk of this road is surveyed to extend from Woodland via Colusa to Red Bluff. As the above-named towns have been described on other routes, we will now return to Davisville, and start south, through as beautiful a section of country as one would wish to see. The stations passed are—Dixon, 3 miles; Batavia, 5 miles; Voca, 10 miles; Fairfield, 5 miles; Bridgeport, 4 miles; Summit, 4 miles. Here we are in the
Which border San Pablo bay. These hills are very productive, the soil being adobe. To the tops of the highest and steepest hills the grain fields extend, even where machinery cannot be used in harvesting. In the valley through which we have passed are several thriving towns, but we have not time to name them—besides, the railroad does not go near enough for us to see them. Passing through a tunnel, to reach which we ascend a heavy grade, we descend into the valley bordering the bay. 7 miles brings us to
Where connections are made with the NAPA VALLEY RAILROAD for Suscol, Napa city, and St. Helena, to Calistoga, 36 miles.
Passing on, we leave the old town of Vallejo on our right. Seven miles further, making 60 miles from Sacramento, and we arrive at
The town is situated on the southeastern point of the high rolling grass-covered hills bordering Vallejo Bay, which is about 4 miles long, and half a mile wide, with 24 feet of water at low tide. The harbor possesses excellent anchorage, and vessels are securely sheltered from storms. The largest vessels find safe waters, and here are laid up the United States ships when not in use on this coast. The naval force, including the monitors, on this side, all rendezvous here. On MARE ISLAND, just across the bay, are the Government works, dry docks, arsenals, etc. The finest section dock on the coast is located on the island, just in front of the town. Ferry-boats connect with the main land and city. About 500 men are constantly employed at the Government works, though at times the number is much greater.
The population of Vallejo is 6,440. It has three newspapers—the Chronicle, daily and weekly; the Recorder, daily; and the Solano Democrat, weekly. It has some fine buildings, 5 churches of different denominations, 7 public, and several private schools, and one public library of over 7,000 volumes. The Orphan Asylum, a fine structure, stands on an elevation, and can be seen for a great distance. There are several good hotels at Vallejo, but the chief pride of the city is in its mammoth elevator, the only one on the coast. The cars on the railroads are so constructed as to take the grain in bulk, carry it to the elevator, where it is raised and stored. Ships of the deepest draught moor on the opposite side, and the grain is discharged into their holds.
Vallejo is a port of entry. During the year ending, June 30th, 1870, 33 large vessels were laden with grain for Liverpool, and other foreign ports. It is also the southern terminus of the California Pacific Railroad, which connects here with the steamer New World for San Francisco, 23 miles distant. Returning to Sacramento, we take the steamer
The plains stretch away on either hand, and there is little to be seen except the gardens and farms along the banks on the higher ground, the wide waste of "tules," and the plains and mountains beyond. On the left, away in the dim
)
Click to view
Page 185
Map of the Central Pacific Rail Road.
distance, the hills succeed the plains, the mountains the hills, until the vast pile towers among the clouds.
Winding around curves, where the stern of the boat is swept by the willows on the shore, we glide down the river, past sloughs, creeks, and tule swamps, until we pass FREEPORT, 12 miles from the city, a little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings.
Floating along between the low banks covered with willow and shrub oak, we pass MISSISSIPPI BEND, 24 miles from Sacramento. Here the river makes one of its numerous curves, almost doubling back on itself.
To the left is the little town of RICHLAND, containing a half-dozen dwellings. Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, and we have one vast plain around us. We pass the outlet of Sutter's Slough, and then the Hog's Back, a long sandbar, which stretches diagonally across the river. The water here is very shoal. A wing dam has been built from the western shore, half way across the channel, which throws the water into a narrow compass, giving greater depth on the bar. Next comes Cache Creek Slough, on which large quantities of grain are shipped to San Francisco via Sacramento river, from Yolo and Solano counties. Now we are passing along by the Rio Vista Hills, which come close to the water's edge on the right hand shore. These hills are the first we have seen near the river since leaving the city. They consist of one long low ridge, broken into hillocks
)
Click to view
Page 186
on its crest. These hills are excellent wheat land, yielding an abundant harvest. The land is very valuable, though but a few years have passed since it was sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of RIO VISTA is situated on the slope of the foot hills, and contains about 300 inhabitants. Formerly the town stood on the low ground, near the river bank, but the flood of '62 washed it away, carrying from 40 to 60 houses down the river. The people fled to the high lands, where they remained until the passing steamers took them away. For days the little steamer Rescue was plying up and down the river, running far out over the submerged plains, picking up the "stragglers," who were surrounded by the waters. Some were found on the house roofs, with the flood far up the sides of their dwellings, and others were rescued from the branches of trees, which afforded them the only resting-place above the waters. The flood of '62 will long be remembered by those who then dwelt on the banks of the Sacramento.
We next pass COLLINGSVILLE, a long wharf on the right hand side of the river, with a house or two standing close by. It is a point of shipment of considerable freight for the country and grain for the city. A little below this point, the San Joaquin river unites with the Sacramento, entering from the left, forming Suisun Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). Steaming across the bay, we arrive at
In Contra Costa county. Population, 500. Three miles south by railroad, are the Mount Diablo coal mines, several in number; one of which furnishes 1000 tons per month for shipment at Antioch. There are several manufactories of pottery in the town, the clay in the vicinity being a very superior article. The Ledger, a weekly paper, is published here. Attention has lately been attracted to the silk culture, and many thousand mulberry trees have been planted. It was one of the citizens of Antioch that "got away" with the State premium of $250, which was awarded by Act of 1868 for the encouragement of silk culture. But we will excuse him.
Passing on down the bay, we enter the Straits of Carquinez, when a long, low wharf on the right attracts our attention. It is fronting the low, rolling hills which lie behind the town of
Formerly the capital of the State, at the head of ship navigation, and contains about 1,600 inhabitants. It is a charming, quiet, rambling old town, with little of the noise and bustle of the busy seaport.
The U.S. arsenals and barracks are located near the town, forming an interesting feature to the visitor. Benicia is justly celebrated for her excellent schools, public and private. The only law school in the State is located here, and also a young ladies' high school or seminary. It is connected by steamers with Suisun, Sacramento, Stockton, and San Francisco, by stage with Vallejo, 7 miles west, over the rolling hills; and by hourly ferry, 2 miles distant, across the Straits, with
The county seat of Contra Costa county. This is a small town of about 600 inhabitants. One weekly newspaper, the California Express. The county is principally devoted to agriculture and vine culture the vineyards being numerous, producing over 70,000 gallons of wine per annum. The Alhambra Ranch, two miles from town, owned by Dr. Strenzel, is thought to be the best for its size in the State. It contains over 30,000 grape vines, and 5,000 fruit trees. Its proprietor has been awarded a large number of medals and prizes for the "best cultivated farm," the "best fruit," and the "best native wine in California."
Passing on down the straits, we have a fine view of Vallejo, which lies to our right, near where we enter San Pablo Bay. Twenty miles more brings us to San Francisco.
But we must return once more to Sacramento,—and this time take our old seat in the cars of the Trans-Continental
)
Click to view
Page 187
Yo Semite Falls, 2,634 feet fall. Yo Semite Valley Route. (See page 193.)
)
Click to view
Page 188
Railroad, bound for "Frisco"—or the "Bay"—as the city of San Francisco is called by the older "Pilgrims," so
The cars speed along on the very bank of the river, then through broad and well-cultivated fields 5 miles to
the first station after leaving Sacramento. Elevation, 50 feet. The cars of the Sacramento Valley R.R.—managed by the Central Pacific Co.—run down on the same track as the Central to this station, where they branch off—let us step into them, and see where they go. Patterson's is 5 miles, Salsbury's, 6 miles, Alder Creek 3 miles, and 3 miles more brings us to
twenty-five miles north-east from Sacramento, in Sacramento county, on the south bank of the American River. Population about 2,000. The Telegraph is published here weekly. Vine culture is an important industry. Some of the finest vineyards in the State are near here, including the Natoma, which is celebrated for its fine quality of raisins and wine. To the north and east of the town, Placer mining is the principal business; to the south and west, farming and grazing.
There are extensive granite quarries in the vicinity. From the bed of the river near this point, large quantities of cobble-stones have been obtained, taken to Sacramento, and used in strengthening the levees around the city. Most of the cobble pavement in San Francisco was obtained from the same source.
Folsom is ornamented with shade and fruit trees, and has many fine public and private buildings, with magnificent scenery.
Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily via Mormon Island, Salmon Falls, and Greenwood valley, 24 miles distant.
Passing on 7 miles brings us to White Rocks, 8 miles to Latrobe, and 11 miles to Shingle Springs, the end of the railroad, 48 1/2 miles from Sacramento. By stage from Shingle Springs—which run daily—it is 12 miles to
the county-seat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of Sacramento, at an altitude of 1,880 feet above tide—present popuation about 4,500.
Who has not heard of Placerville, El Dorado county. It was in this county, at Coloma, 8 miles northeast of the city, where the
was made, January 19th, 1848, by J.W. Marshall, in the mill-race of General Sutter. The announcement of this discovery caused the wildest gold fever excitement ever experienced, not only in America, but in every part of the civilized world.
The news of these rich discoveries sped with the wings of the wind, and thousands, yes, tens of thousands in the Atlantic States, left homes, friends, and all they held dear, to make their fortunes in this the new El Dorado. With many the excitement became intense. Ships, steamers, barks, brigs, and all manner of sailing vessels were chartered or purchased for a trip "around the Horn," and no sacrifice was thought to be too much to make to procure the necessary outfit for the expedition. Again, there were thousands who, choosing the land, boldly struck out towards the setting sun, to cross the—then almost unknown—trackless deserts, and pathless mountains. Horses, mules, and cattle were pressed into service, as well as all kinds of conveyances, while many started with hand-carts propelling them themselves—upon which they packed their tools and provisions for the trip. Again, others started out on foot, with only what they could pack on their backs, "trusting to luck." Very few, if any, had a thought of the privations to be endured, or the obstacles to be overcome. So anxious were they to arrive at the Land of Gold.
Those who came by water passed in at the Golden Gate and up the Sacramento, while those by land came pouring
)
Click to view
Page 189
over the Sierra Nevada mountains by natural passes, down-down into this beautiful valley, where a city of many thousands suddenly sprang into existence. From a "little unpleasantness" the place was first known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was changed to Placerville, which indicated at that time the nature of the mining done in the vicinity. Of the many thousands who started across the plains and mountains, hundreds died by the wayside, and were buried by their companions, while the greater number were "lost" by the hand of the friendly Indian, or, the hostile Mormon.—Echo, Mountain Meadow.
It has been estimated, and we think correctly, that could the bones of these emigrants be collected, and those of their animals, together with their wagons and carts, in one continuous line, between the Missouri River and the Pacific coast, since the rush commenced in 1848, they would be more numerous and closer together than the telegraph poles on the line of the Pacific Railroad across the Continent.
The early mining done about Placerville was by hand, the Pan, Rocker, and Long Tom; these have long since given place to the Quartz Mills—there are 32 in the county—and the Hydraulic process, by which nearly all the mining is now done.
Vine-culture and fruit-culture, is now the most important occupation of the people of the county. Fresh and dried fruits are shipped by the hundreds of tons, while the crop of wine and brandy produced the last year exceeds 300,000 gallons. Herr Schnell, a Prussian, is the founder and manager of a colony of Japanese, who have settled near the town and engaged in the cultivation of the tea plant. They have over 90,000 plants set out and growing finely; also, 75,000 mulberry trees, the latter to feed a new variety of silkworm, from which they expect extraordinary results.
Placerville contains a goodly number of schools, and churches of almost every denomination, including a "Joss House." The different, secret orders are well represented, and a newspaper, the Democrat, which seems to be thoroughly devoted to home interests, makes its appearance every Saturday.
Placerville is situated in what is known as
as the chain of broken land is called, which lies between the Sierra Mountains and the plains, extending from Fresno county on the south through Tuolumne, Calavaras, Amador, Eldorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte to Tehama on the north, comprising nearly one-fourth of the arable land of the State. The soil is altogether different from that of the valleys, being generally of a red gravelly clay and sandy loam. In the little valleys which are found among these hills, the soil is generally a black loam, the product of the mountain washings. Experiments, however, have decided the fact that these foot hills are the natural vineyards of California. In Eldorado and Placer counties, on these sandy foot hills, are now the finest vineyards in the State, from which are manufactured fine wines and raisins. Here among these hills are as cosy homes as one could wish to have, where grain, vegetables and all kinds of fruit are raised in abundance, while thousands of acres are lying vacant, awaiting the emigrant.
The mulberry tree and silkworm are cultivated to some extent in the foot hills, and this branch of industry is lately receiving considerable attention.
But we must return to the TRANS-CONTINENTAL, which we left at Brighton, 5 miles south of Sacramento. Four miles to
An unimportant station. Elevation, 42 feet. The traveler has possibly noticed several windmills along the road before arriving at this station. The CALIFORNIA WIND-MILL is a great institution in its way. They seem to have been brought to a greater state of perfection on this coast than anywhere else. From this place we will find them to increase until we get to the "Windmill City," as Stock-
)
Click to view
Page 190
ton is often called, where they can be seen in great numbers in every direction. Many times the water is pumped into a reservoir built on the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola, from which pipes take the water to the different rooms throughout the house and grounds; the waste water is conducted into the gardens and fields for irrigating purposes. These mills are numerous in San Francisco and throughout the State.
Seven miles more to
Elevation, 53 feet. The beautiful valley through which the road passes is spreading out before us, and we begin to realize that nature has done sufficient for this "sunset land," to entitle California to all the praise that has been bestowed upon her.
Is a small station 3 miles from Elk Grove. Elevation, 49 feet. Before reaching the next station, we cross Cosumnes river, which rises in the mountains to the northeast. The bottom lands are very wide, and covered with white oaks. This stream gets high in the spring, but very low in the summer. Eight miles to
Elevation, 49 feet. A regular stage line leaves this place daily for the
Seventy miles distant. (See map of route, further on.) There has been up to the present time ten "Big Tree Groves" discovered on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains, numbering from 92 to 1,000 trees in each, and ranging in height from 250 to 321 feet, with a circumference at the ground of from 60 to 95 feet each.
The largest ever discovered is called the "Father of the Forest," now prostrate, and measures 435 feet in length, and 110 feet in circumference. It is in the Calaveras grove. The elevation of this grove above tide is 4,375 feet. The trees number 92, ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height. The most notable are the "Father of the Forest," as above stated; the "Mother of the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circumference; "Hercules," 820 feet high, 95 feet in circumference; "Hermit," 318 feet high, 60 feet in circumference; "Pride of the Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circumference; "Three Graces," 295 feet high, 92 feet in circumference; "Husband & Wife," 252 feet high, 60 feet in circumference; "Burnt Tree," prostrate, 330 feet long, 97 feet in circumference; "The Old Maid," "Old Bachelor," "Siamese Twins," "Mother & Sons," the "Two Guardsmen," and many others range from 261 to 300 feet in height, and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. Of over 350 Big Trees in the Mariposa grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height, and 40 feet in circumference. The "Rambler" is 250 feet high, and 102 feet in circumference at the ground.
The route from Galt is, via Ione City, 24 miles, 10 more to Jackson, 3 to Amador, and 4 more to——, 41 in all.
County seat of Calaveras county. Population 1,200. This is one of the early mining towns of the State. Placer mines were worked as early as 1848, and are worked to some extent at the present time; but quartz mining and agriculture are the principal occupation of the people. It is a pretty little town; the streets are ornamented with shade trees on each side, and has some beautiful gardens and private residences, with good schools and churches, several good hotels, and one weekly newspaper, the Chronicle, the oldest paper in the State. Stages connect the place with all the principal mining towns in the vicinity, and with the Big Tree grove, 29 miles distant. The hotel accommodations are ample at the grove, and in fact at all the groves and in Yo-Semite valley. Returning to Galt, 8 miles more brings us to
(Pronounced Mokel-m-ne.) Elevation, 55 feet. To the southward, away to the right, 35 miles distant, can be seen
which rises clear and grand from out the plains, an unerring pilot to those who wandered across these once trackless
)
Click to view
Page 191
plains, that now are teeming with life and industry. It is situated in the Contra Costa Range of mountains, and is the meridian point in the land surveys of the State. Elevation, 3,876 feet. The view from the summit includes the country and towns around San Francisco, San Pablo and Suisun bays, and the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. It is reached by steamboats from either San Francisco, Stockton, or Sacramento. From Mokelumne we pass along through fine broad bottom lands, dotted here and there with white-oak trees, which at a distance appear like an old New England apple tree. It is 13 miles to the next station; but just before reaching it, on the right, that large building is the STATE INSANE ASYLUM. The grounds devoted to the use of the asylum occupy 100 acres. The first building in view is the male department; the second, the female. We are now in the suburbs of the third commercial city in the State.
County seat of San Joaquin county. Population 10,033. Elevation, 23 feet. The city was named in honor of the old naval commodore of that name, who engaged in the conquest of California. It is situated on a slough, or small bay, of the San Joaquin river, at the head of navigation. Yet steamboats of light draft ascend the river (San Joaquin) 275 miles farther. Stockton is situated in the midst of level plains, celebrated for their great yield of grain. It is the centre of an immense grain trade, most of which is shipped to foreign ports. In early times, the only trade depended upon for the support of the city was derived directly from the working of the mines to the south and east. This trade is still retained; but compared with the tremendous grain trade which has sprung into existence within the last few years, sinks to a unit. The city has many beautiful public and private buildings, 13 churches, 14 public and many private schools, is lighted with gas and well supplied with water, the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per day, the water rising 10 feet above the city grade. There are several good hotels. The "Yo-Semite" and "Lafayette," the latter, on the European plan, are the most prominent. The newspapers are the Republican, daily and weekly, democratic in politics; the Independent, daily and weekly, republican; the Herald, daily, and the Gazette, weekly, are both independent in politics, and the Observer, weekly. The private residences and gardens of the citizens are certainly very tastefully ornamented with all kinds of vines, shrubbery and, flowers. The flower garden owned by Colonel Charles M. Weber covers three acres of ground, and undoubtedly contains the greatest variety and is the most beautiful on the coast. The Colonel takes great pride and pleasure in his garden, and has expended large sums of money in procuring rare plants and flowers from almost every land and clime.
The soil around Stockton is "adobe," a vegetable mould, black and very slippery and soft during the rainy season. This extends westward to French Camp, a noted point in early days, five miles from the city. Here the "Sand Plains" commence, and extend west to the river San Joaquin, and southward some 40 miles, to the low hills which border the southern mountains. Stockton has been the starting point for several stage lines to the towns to the eastward—to the Big Trees, Yosemite, etc.; but we are informed that some, if not all, will hereafter run from points on the railroad which is building up the San Joaquin valley. This is a great country for rapid changes. Where to-day there are only stages, to-morrow there may be palace cars. So that it is almost impossible for us to keep up with the times.
Leaving Stockton, 8 miles bring us to
The junction of the "VISALIA DIVISION" of the Central Pacific Railroad, which is the new route to the Yosemite valley and the Big Trees. Near this station, at "Wilson's Landing," the Central Co. commenced,
)
Click to view
Page 192
February 1st, 1870, laying the track of a branch road up the
(Pronounced, San Waw-keen.) This road will open up a tract of country larger than many kingdoms of the old world, and far richer, extending to Visalia, county seat of Tulare county. The amount of grain and stock raised in this valley, and its hundred of smaller ones tributary to it, is almost incredible for a country so recently settled. There are millions of acres of government land laying idle, awaiting the emigrant, as good land as the sun ever shone upon, which can be pre-empted at $1.25 per acre, or taken up under the Homestead Act. The valley is over 250 miles in length, with an average width of 30 miles; its greatest width, 140 miles. It embraces portions of nine counties, and, with the numerous tributary valleys, comprises over six millions of the richest agricultural lands in the State, together with one million of "Tule" and salt marsh land, which, when reclaimed, proves to be the most fertile land in the world. To the above might be added six millions acres of adjoining grazing, mineral, and valuable mountain lands, and you have a country capable of sustaining some hundreds of thousands of inhabitants. The foot hills, and in fact the whole country, abound in wild oats, which are indigenous to the soil, upon which stock thrive and fatten remarkably, and are cut, when green, for hay. Wheat, barley, oats, and in fact all kinds of grain, and every description of vegetables, fruit and flowers, are produced in abundance. Experiments in cotton and tobacco have proved a success. The climate is very desirable, pleasant and invigorating.
This road will open up the country reaching to Visalia, the county seat of Tulare county, over 250 miles, affording ready means of transportation for the grain and stock raised in this immense valley; and, as it will ultimately be a connecting link of the Southern Pacific Railroad, north and south, it must prove of untold advantage to the country opened up, to the State at large, as well as to the enterprising company constructing it. At the time we write, April 1st, 1871, the road is completed to Modesto, 20 miles distant. It is being pushed rapidly forward, and the Railroad Co. announce that
"The road will be finished beyond the crossing of the Merced and Bear rivers, from which points Fisher & Co.'s line of Concord Coaches will leave at 6.00 A.M., running through by the new stage road to Clarks, arriving there that afternoon in time for those who may wish to take saddle horses and arrive in Yo Semite Valley during the evening of the same day. Thus a person can leave Sacramento at noon, or San Francisco at 4 P.M. by the C.P.R.R., remain over night at the junction of the rail and stage roads, and arrive in the Valley of the Yo Semite the next evening; or those who prefer can remain the second night at Clark's, and ride leisurely into the Valley early the next day. The latter course might be preferable to the majority of tourists, who would desire to visit en route the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. which is but six miles from Clark's."
The visitor to this State will hardly wish to leave it until he has visited the wonderful
and the
The grandest scenery on the American continent, if not in the world, is to be seen in the Valley of the Yo Semite (pronounced Yo Sem-i-te; by the Indians, Yo Ham-i-te). This valley was first discovered by white men in March, 1851, by Major Savage. It is about 8 miles long, and from one-half to a mile in width. The Merced river enters the head of the valley by a series of waterfalls, which, combined with the perpendicular granite walls which rise on either side from 2,000 to 6,000 feet above the green valley and sparkling waters beneath, presents a scene of beauty and magnificence unsurpassed, except possibly in childhood's fairy dreams.
Here is majesty! enchanting! awe inspiring! indescribable! The lofty cloud-capped waterfalls and mirrored lakes, the towering perpendicular granite cliffs and fearful chasms, strike the beholder with a wondering admiration impossible to describe.
We have often desired to take our readers with us, in a pen and pencil description of this most remarkable valley, and the "Big Trees," but in view of
)
Click to view
Page 193
TAPPING LAKE TAHOE.
THE project for tapping Lake Tahoe, on the top of the Sierra Nevada, and taking its waters in a grand stream down the mountain sides and through the great central plains of California to San Francisco, distributing it for mining, irrigating and town purposes along the way, and at the end furnishing San Francisco with abundance of water for all uses—this, perhaps the most magnificent water scheme ever attempted, seems to be seriously put in the way of execution. The company is formed; Congress had conferred the necessary rights upon it; San Francisco welcomes it, and the route is already laid down. There is to be at first a tunnel of three miles, and for twenty-five miles the waters will be carried along and in the north fork of the American river. The use of the water for the mining purposes, along and among the foot hills through which it is to be carried, is relied upon as a chief return for the cost of the enterprise. A large extent of rich placer mining territory now remains utterly neglected or but partially improved for the lack of such a generous and constant water supply as this will be.
)
Click to view
Page 194
our limited space, the magnitude of the undertaking, together with our conscious inability to do justice to the subject, we have contented ourselves by giving an illustration of the Great Yo Semite Falls, with a map of the surrounding country—showing the relative position of the valley, trees, and adjoining towns, to the railroad—the different routes, with a few statistics of the most notable objects of interest. To those of our readers who desire further information and who does not?—we are pleased to recommend a book entitled, "Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in California," by J.M. Hutchings, of Yo Semite; A. Roman & Co., New York and San Francisco, publishers. This book is a thorough guide book of Yo Semite Valley, profusely illustrated, vividly describing every object of interest step by step, with facts and figures, telling just what the tourist wants to know, not only in this valley alone, but throughout California. The "Big Trees," Mount Shasta, the Geysers, New Alameda Quicksilver Mines, Farallone Islands, Alabaster Cave, etc.
The most notable falls in Yo Semite Valley are—the Ribbon, 3,300 feet fall; the Upper Yo Semite, 2,634 feet (see illustration -view image- ); the Bridal Veil, 950; the Nevada, 700; the Lower Yo Semite, 600; the Vernal, 350 feet. The South Doom is 6,000 feet high; the Three Brothers, 4,000; Cap of Liberty, 4,240; Three Graces, 3,750; North Doom, 3,725; Glaciers Point, 3,705; El-Capitain, 3,300; Sentinel Rocks, 3,270; Cathedral Rocks, 2,690; Washington Tower, 2,200: and the Royal Arches, 1,800 feet high.
By reference to the accompanying map, it will be seen there are several stage routes from the railway. (See dotted line.) From Modesto there are two routes—one via Knight's Ferry, on the Stanislaus river, 20 miles, thence to Chinese Camp, 14 Miles; the other route follows up the Valley of Tuolumne river to Chinese Camp, 33 miles (from Chinese Camp a line of stages run to the north to Sonora, 12 miles; Murphy's Clamp, 16 more; then 10 to the Big Trees of the Calaveras Grove—total, 71 miles). From Chinese Camp to Coulterville, 23 miles—total from Modesto, 56 miles. At Coulterville horses and guides are taken for Yo Semite Valley, 59 miles. On this route, 10 miles from Coalterville, at Marble Springs, is Bower Cave; 16 miles from Coulterville is Black's House, where "Pilgrims" can remain over night. From Hazel Green—elevation 6,699—a fine view of the great San Joaquin Valley can be obtained. At Crane Flat, 34 miles from Coulterville, a trail leads off to the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees, one mile distant. There are 24 trees, the largest being 36 feet in diameter. The first view of Yo Semite is had at Valley View, 45 miles from Coulterville, and 12 miles from Hutching's Hotel, where everybody stops who goes to Yo Semite.
There are to be two routes from Bear Creek station—one via Snelling, a small town of 200 inhabitants, 16 miles, Coulterville 21 miles, and from thence 57 miles—total, 84 to Hutching's.
The other route leads directly to the town of
County seat of Mariposa county, 35 miles. This town contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Once noted for its rich placer mines, but now quartz mining is the principal occupation of the people. In Bear valley are the mills and mines (or a portion of them) belonging to the "Las Mariposa Grant," or the Fremont estate, as it is usually called. The Benton mills are on the Merced river, about two miles from the town, reached by a good dug road, down a very steep mountain.
In Mount Ophir and Princeton, a raining town near by, are large quartz mills, belonging to the estate, and extensive mines.
From Mariposa 25 miles brings us to Clark's, where the traveller will take saddle-horses the balance of the way. (Here a trail branches off to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees, 427 in number, the largest being 34 feet in diameter.) From Clark's the trail leads through
)
Click to view
Page 195
Alder Creek, Empire Camp, and the far-famed "Inspiration Point." From the latter is obtained the first grand view of this wonderful valley, lying 4,000 feet below the "Point." Distance from Clark's to the valley, 20 miles. Total from railroad to Yo Semite by this route, 80 miles. It will be seen the saddle route is the shortest, as well as the through route; but we express no preferences, as each has its own peculiar attractive features. Should the tourist enter the valley by one route, and return by another, little of the scenery will be overlooked.
* * * * * *
Returning to Lathrop, 4 miles brings us to
Over the river of that name. Elevation, 36 feet. Here the cars come to a full stop before crossing, to be sure to guard against accidents—as the bridge has a "draw" for the accommodation of the river boats. This company has a rule for all their employees, and a "GOLDEN" ONE IT IS, that "In case of uncertainty, always take the safe side." This rule may be the same on all other roads, but we think it is better observed; and we know the number of "accidents" reported are much less on the roads operated by this company—in proportion to the miles—than on any other in America; and we propose to account for it in the following manner:—The road is constructed with good materials, and in the most substantial manner, with all its equipments of the first class. The officers are thorough practical men, who never discharge an employee, on any consideration, who has proved to be a competent man for his position, simply to make room for a favorite, or a worthless "cousin."
Crossing the bridge, the long range of the Contra Costa mountains looms up in the distance directly ahead, and extending a long distance to the right and left on either hand, as though to effectually stop our progress. We cannot see any place to get through or over them, yet we are sure San Francisco is on the other side. Passing on over a broad bottom, the soil of which is a sandy loam, and very deep, for 4 miles, we arrive at the new town of
Elevation, 30 feet. Stages leave on arrival of trains for Point Timbers, 28; Antioch, 36, and Hill's Ferry, 40 miles.
After leaving this station, we have witnessed, on several occasions, by looking away to the right, that curious phenomenon, the mirage, which is often seen on the desert. [See description, page 149.]
Situated in the midst of a beautiful valley, which is rapidly settling up. The coal mines of Corral Hollow are 14 miles distant from this station to the southeast, connected by rail track. The Central Co. use large quantities of this coal—besides, transporting it to San Francisco, and other cities and towns. Since leaving the last station we have gained altitude—this station being 76 feet elevation. Another engine will be attached here, as the grade increases rapidly, after leaving this station, until we get to the summit of the mountain.
formerly called "Zink House," is 9 miles from Ellis. Elevation, 357 feet. Soon after leaving the station we enter the bluffs, pass through deep cuts and over high fills, our two iron horses puffing and blowing furiously as they labor up the heavy grade. These bluffs are heavy sand, and almost destitute of vegetation. To our right can be seen the old wagon road, but now almost deserted. Still upward, and onward, the long train thundering around this jutting point and over that high embankment, twisting and turning, first to the right and then to the left, like some huge serpent, while the bluffs seem to increase in height, and the canyon narrower and darker at every turn, until, at last, we are plunged into total darkness, and the tunnel of Livermore Pass. This tunnel is the only one on the road from
)
Click to view
Page 196
Sacramento to San Francisco, is 1,116 feet long, supported by heavy timbers. [See Illustration. -view image- ] Passing through this canyon, we arrive at
seven miles from Midway, Elevation, 740 feet.
The train is now rapidly descending through a narrow canyon, down into one of the loveliest little valleys in the whole country, cross a long bridge, and 8 miles from the last station we arrive at
This town contains about 500 inhabitants and is beautifully situated in the midst of the valley—surrounded by high mountain ranges—is rapidly improving. Elevation 351 feet.
Leaving the station, the mountain again looms up directly ahead, and looks to be impossible this time to get through; but soon the train passes around or through several mountain spurs, and emerges into a narrow canyon, down which ripples the sparkling Alameda creek. The bluffs on each side are steep, and covered with scrub oaks, wild oats, and bunch grass. Live oaks, with long, drooping, moss-covered boughs—some very large—grow on the banks of the creek, presenting at a distance the appearance of an apple-tree loaded with fruit. On we go, down, down, first on one side the creek, then on the other, the bluffs drawing in close on both sides, through deep cuts, over high bridges with rapidly changing scenery on either hand, when the engine shrieks a signal and dashes past the old San Jose Junction station—the track of which can be seen on the left. On, on, past the old "Vallejo Mill," the track curves to the westward, and 11 miles from the last station arrive at
Elevation, 86 feet. From Livermore Pass we have been rapidly descending, and now we are in the valley which continues to San Francisco Bay,
Niles is situated in the thickest settled portion of Alameda Valley, surrounded by the finest lands in the State of California, and will, at no distant day, be a place of considerable importance. Seven miles to the south, by rail, are the noted Warm Springs of Alameda county.
Niles is now the junction of the San Jose branch which runs through the valley of Alameda, around the head of San Francisco Bay. It is—but let us go and see. "All abor'd." The first station is Washington, 3 miles; next, 4 miles, the WARM SPRINGS, where the traveler will find ample accommodations for a pleasant sojourn. These springs are situated a short distance from the station, in a quiet little valley among the foot-hills, rather retired, surrounded by attractive scenery. The waters are impregnated with sulphur, and are highly spoken of for their medicinal qualities. From the Springs it is 4 miles to Milpetas, and 7 more to
The county-seat of Santa Clara county. Population, 7,500 (pronounced San O-za). It is the largest town in Santa Clara Valley, and in population the fifth in the State. It was first settled by the Spanish missionaries in 1777. The city is lighted with gas, the streets are macadamized, and ornamented with rows of shade trees on each side. Artesian wells, and the "California Wind Mill," together with a small mountain stream, abundantly supply the city with good water. The Alameda, or grove, was planted in 1799. It is by far the prettiest grove of planted timber in the State, and by many people it is claimed that San Jose is the prettiest city in the State. It is certainly one of the best improved, and there are none more beautiful. Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees; its fine private and public buildings, and the delightful climate of the valley, render it a favorite place of summer resort.
San Jose, and Santa Clara, 3 miles distant, are noted for their educational institutions, where some of the finest in the State are located. The convent of Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the State Normal School, and the new building of the University of the Pacific, Methodist Female Seminary, Methodist,
)
Click to view
Page 197
Tunnel, Livermore Pass.—(See page 196.)
)
Click to view
Page 198
San Jose has 11 church edifices—ample public and private schools, hotels, and newspapers. The Mercury, weekly, Independent, daily and weekly, Patriot, daily, and Argus, weekly, are published here. The city is connected by railroad with Gilroy, 30 miles south, and San Francisco by two lines—the one we came on, and the other via the peninsula direct, through the thickly settled and well cultivated San Mateo country; distance 50 miles in a west of north direction; by stage 10 miles to CONGRESS SPRINGS. These springs are resorted to by those suffering with pulmonary complaints. Stages also run to NEW ALMADEN, 15 miles distant, noted for its medicinal springs, chief among which, and the most valued for its medicinal qualities, is the
Such a demand has been made for this water that it is now put up in bottles, and meets with an extensive sale throughout the State, and wherever it is known it is very generally recommended by the medical faculty. Near this place are the famous
of New Almaden. These mines are very extensive, and should be visited by the curious. They were discovered by an officer in the Mexican service during the year 1845, who, seeing the Indians with their faces painted with vermillion, bribed one of them, who told him where it was to be found. The following year several English and Mexicans formed a company for working the mines, large sums of money were expended, and many difficulties had to be overcome, but finally, by the introduction of important improvements the mines have proved to be very valuable. The different mines furnish employment for, and support from, 1,000 to 1,500 persons. Nearly all the miners are Mexicans.
It is supposed that these mines were known and worked by the native Indians of California, long before the country was known by white men. They worked them to procure the Vermillion paint which the ore contained, for the purpose of painting and adorning their villainous persons, and to "swop" with the neighboring tribes.
We will now return to San Jose, and step into the horse-cars on the beautiful ALAMEDA AVENUE, which is bordered on each side with two rows of poplar and willow trees, planted by the early Jesuit missionaries nearly 80 years ago.
Behind these trees are elegant cottages, beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, containing almost every variety of vegetables, fruit and flowers.
Passing on through this shady bower 3 miles, we arrive at
Situated near the centre of Santa Clara valley. This valley is one of the loveliest in the world, possesssing a soil of surpassing richness. It is celebrated for the salubrity of its climate, the excellence and variety of its fruits, is thickly settled, and as a wheat-growing valley it has no superior. In point of improvements, good farm houses, orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any equals.
Santa Clara is a thrifty village with about 3,500 inhabitants. It was originally founded by the Jesuits in 1774. The churches and schools are ample—the latter we have alluded to in connection with San Jose. The Index, and the News, both weekly newspapers, are published here. Santa Clara is on the railroad between San Francisco and Gilroy, 47 miles from the former, and 33 from the latter. A fine stage road extends across the coast range 30 miles distant to
The Newport of California. Santa Cruz is the county-seat of Santa Cruz county, situated on an arm of Monterey Bay. Population, 3,000; connected by steamer with San Francisco, 77 miles, Monterey, 23 miles, San Luis Obispo, 132 miles; by stage to Pescadero, 35 miles, and other adjoining towns. It is a noted
)
Click to view
Page 199
summmer resort for the sea bathers, who find good accommodation in the shape of hotels, bathing houses, etc. Schools and churches are flourishing. Two newspapers, the Santa Cruz Sentinel and Times, both weeklies, are published here.
Returning to Niles, we continue our journey. Skirting the high bluffs at our right, with beautiful fields stretching out at our left for three miles to
Elevation, 71 feet. This is a new town, and promises at this time to be one of unusual importance as a suburban residence for the merchant princes of San Francisco.
The lots are very large, with wide avenues, which are to be ornamented with rows of evergreen trees, rumor says, to the extent of from 40,000 to 50,000, and watered from living springs, which flow abundance of water, a few miles to the east in the mountains. To the left the valley stretches away ten miles to San Francisco, 26 miles distant, can be distinctly seen a little to the left, ahead of the train, across the bay.
Rolling along down this beautiful valley, we can see on our right, nestling in beside the mountains, the town of HAYWOOD, the terminus of the Alameda Railroad. It is 32 miles from San Francisco. Eleven miles brings us to
A small station, elevation 32 feet. 3 miles from
County-seat of Alameda county. Population, 900; elevation, 48 feet. The town is situated on San Leandro creek, with good schools and churches, and one weekly newspaper, the Gazette. Connected by San Francisco & Alameda R.R. with Haywood, 11 miles; Alameda, 6 miles.
Alameda county is noted for its peculiarly rich and fertile soil, which seems expecially adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of vegetables, the size and weight of which are truly marvelous. Carrots grow 3 feet long, and weigh 35 lbs.; cabbages, 75 lbs.; onions, 5 lbs.; watermelons, 85 lbs.; pumpkins—well, no scales can weigh them; pears, 3 1/2 lbs.; cherries, 3 inches in circumference; strawberries, 2 ounces; and beets—not "Dead beats"—200 lbs.; which, we should say, beats all, but Greeley says, "Beats the Devil!"
Grain yeilds are enormous. In Livermore Valley are some of the finest fields of grain in the State; the yield from a single acre often being 80 bushels. In this country are fine quarries of granite and limestone suitable for building purposes. Most of the brown stone used in San Francisco is obtained here.
Passing on, the traveler will note a RACE TRACK on the left, where some of the best blooded stock in the State can often be seen exercising. Five miles more and we arrive at
Here the train comes to a full stop—then crosses the track of the Alameda Railroad—to guard against accidents. Elevation of the station, 18 feet. Four miles to our left is the town of
In Alameda county. Population, 1,100. It is situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, 12 miles from San Francisco, 5 miles from Alameda Point; connected with San Francisco by ferry-boats, and by the San Francisco & Alameda Railroad; with the Central at Simpson's and Haywoods, 10 miles distant. It has good schools and churches, and elegant private residences.
The town abounds in beautiful groves of oaks. The Encinal and other fine parks have been laid out and improved. It is a favorite resort of pic-nic parties from San Francisco. The Encinal, a weekly newspaper, is the only one published here.
Returning to Simpson's, 2 miles brings us to
Formerly San Antonio. It is on the
)
Click to view
Page 200
eastern shore of San Francisco bay, separated from the city of Oakland by an arm of San Antonio creek, but connected by bridge. Both Brooklyn and Oakland are situated on ground which slopes gradually back from the bay for several miles to the foot hills, or base of the Contra Costa mountains, in their rear. Upon this sloping ground are built many elegant "out of town" residences of the merchants of San Francisco, which command a beautiful view of their city, the bay, the Golden Gate, and the surrounding country. Population of Brooklyn, about 2,000. Cars and steamboats run regularly between the city and San Francisco. A short distance to the northeast of the city, in a canyon of the mountains, are situated the "PIEDMONT WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS." These Springs are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and it is claimed that they possess medicinal qualities. But why Californians should be sick, or drink sulphur water, when they have such good wine, and so much of it, we are unable to understand.
The only cotton mill on the Pacific coast is located at this place—the "Oakland Cotton Mills." Their principal business at present is the manufacture of burlaps for bags and wool-packs from "jute" imported from the West Indies. When their works are completed, they will employ 250 operatives. Schools and churches are numerous, and one weekly newspaper, the Independent. We now cross the bridge, and pass along just on the edge of the bay, with the suburbs of Oakland on our right, three miles to Broadway station,
What Brooklyn, N.Y., is to New York City so is Oakland to the city of San Francisco. The name of the city is significant of its surroundings, as it is situated in an extensive grove of evergreen oaks, with orchards, parks, gardens and vineyards on every side. Nestling amidst this forest of perpetual green, can be seen, peeping out here and there, the magnificent villa of the nabob, the substantial residence of the wealthy merchant, and the neat and tasteful cottage of the "well to do" mechanic, who have been attracted here by its grand scenery, mild climate, and quiet surroundings, being free from dust, noise, or the bustle of a large city. Oakland is lighted with gas, has broad, well-paved streets, is abundantly supplied with water from a creek five miles distant, supports several horse railroads and three daily newspapers, the Transcript, News, and Termini. Churches are numerous. Most of the secret orders are well represented. Public and private schools are ample. The higher educational institutions comprise the University of California, the State University School, the Female College of the Pacific, the Oakland Military School, the Oakland Female Seminary, and the Convent of "Our Lady of the Sacred Heart." The University of California, is now occupying premises temporarily until their new building is finished, which is in course of erection at Berkly, four miles distant. It is to be constructed throughout of brick and iron, they say, earthquake proof. It may be; but, gentlemen, remember the "tower of Babel!"
Near the university, towards the bay, is located the State Asylum of the Deaf, Dumb and Blind. It is a massive stone building, three stories high, 300 feet above the bay, and commanding a very extensive view. Oakland is the fourth city in population in the State, being about 10,000, and rapidly increasing. We now continue on through the city, two miles to
To the left of the track at this place are the usual round-houses, machine and repair shops of a division. Until the building of a pier at this place, the only harbor of Oakland was to the eastward, at the mouth of San Antonio creek, the water to the westward being quite shallow for a long distance from shore.
As this "Point" is the extreme western foot of available land to build a railroad upon, "Old Fogy" would naturally say, "Here must be the terminus! We can go no farther!" But "Young America," not content with spanning a continent with iron rails, says, "No! We are going
)
Click to view
Page 201
to China! ALL ABOARD!" And before "Old Fogy" could realize the situation, a finger flashes the lightning to the timber lands of the Sierra Nevada mountains, 250 miles away, and down come long trains of cars, 40 miles an hour, loaded with timber, lumber and piles, and the swarms of laborers are soon laying the track "over the waters" towards the setting sun.
Passing on down the pier, "which I wish to remark, and my language is plain," that for piles that are large, and timbers that are strong, the pier that we're on is peculiar.
Looking over the broad expanse of water on our right, the mountains of Marin county loom up in the distance, the highest point being Mount Tamaulipas, 2,604 feet high. Half a mile down the pier we come to where the through freight cars come in on the left. This track branched off from the main track, which passes through the city of Oakland, a few miles to the eastward, and is built on piles over the shoal water skirting the city front to this place, where the tracks again unite.
Down the pier rolls the long train, directly out into the bay, 2 1/4 miles to the ferry-boat, which conveys passengers over the waters three miles to the city of San Francisco.
It is built with the best materials, and in the most substantial manner, with double track and carriage-way extending the whole length. There are three slips. The one to the north is 600 feet long, and will accommodate the largest ships, the water being 26 1/2 feet in depth at low tide and 32 at high tide. On each side of the slip are erected large warehouses, one of them 600x52 feet, the other 500x52 feet, with tracks running through for the purpose of loading and discharging.
The next slip south was built to accommodate the "THOROUGHFARE." This steamer was designed expressly for taking freight cars across the bay. She once made the trip across the bay with 36 loaded freight cars, running a distance of 3 1/2 miles in 22 minutes. She is 260 feet on deck, 38 feet beam, with flat bottom. The engines are 200 horse power; cylinders 22x84, and were constructed at the company's shops in Sacramento.
The south slip is the passenger slip, where lands the regular ferry-boat between Oakland and San Francisco. On each side of this slip is a passenger-house—one 300x70 feet, the other 450x50 feet. In these buildings are located the division offices, presided over by E.C. Fellows, Esq., superintendent. to whom we are under many obligations for kind favors and correct figures. Here, too, will be found our western agent, E.S. Denison, Esq., who is the general news agent of the "C.P." He is sure to be supplied with all the latest newspapers and periodicals in the country; and can not only furnish food for the mind and soul, but a lunch, à la Delmonico. In these buildings will also be found ample accommodations for passengers and the enormous travel, the advance-guard of which has only just commenced to arrive.
The first ship that loaded at this pier was the "Jennie Eastman," of Bath, England. She commenced loading August 4th, 1870, for Liverpool, with wheat; brought, some from San Joaques Valley, but the greater portion from the end of the California and Oregon Railroad, 230 miles north of San Francisco. When it is understood by the people of the world that the China, Japan, Sandwich Island and Australian steamships can land at this pier, load and unload from and into the cars of the Great Pacific Railroad, and those cars can be taken through to and from the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean without change; that goods in BOND can (as teas and silks are now) be so transported in one fourth the time heretofore occupied, it will then be realized as the GREAT REVOLUTION of the age. Already a number of ships, direct from Liverpool, loaded with iron, have been discharged at this pier. From the landing place of the "Thoroughfare" in San Francisco a rail track leads to the dock of the Pacific mail steamships, and goods are now transferred in that way in bond;
)
Click to view
Page 202
but the time is near when all foreign vessels with goods for "across the continent" will land at this pier. The precautions against fire on this pier, and to put it out, are ample. The two engines which do the "yard work" are provided with force-pump attachments, steam from the locomotive boilers, and supplied with reels of hose and suction pipe so arranged that water can be used from their tanks, or the bay.
To the southwest three-fourths of a mile—once the objective point of this pier—is GOAT ISLAND, or "Yerba Buena." It is nearly round, 340 feet altitude, containing 350 acres. Belongs to the government.
As we stand at the end of this pier—almost in the middle of San Francisco Bay—and think back only twenty-five years, we are lost in wonder and astonishment. Here are already four cities within a few miles of where we stand; the smallest has near 2,000, while the larger teems with nearly 150,000 inhabitants, representatives from every land and clime on the face of the earth. In 1847, 500 white settlers could not be found in as many hundred miles, and not one ship a year visited this bay. Now there are six large mail steamships in the China trade, eight more, in the Pacific mail service to Panama, 20 more regularly engaged on the coast from Sitka, on the north; to South America, Honolulu, Australia, New Zealand, on the south; besides hundreds of ships and steam vessels of every description all busy—all life. Here, too, at the end of this pier, is the extreme western end of the grand system of American railways, which has sprung into existence within the same twenty-five years. How fast we live. The gentle breeze of to-day was the whirlwind of fifty years ago. Will we—can we—continue at the same ratio? But why speculate? It is our business to write what is taking place to-day; so we will now step on board the ferry-boat and take a look at
The city presents a broken appearance, owing to a portion being built on the hills, which attain quite a respectable altitude. From the tops of these hills a very fair view of the city can be obtained.
A large portion of the city is built on land made by filling out into the bay. Where the large ware-houses now stand, ships of the heaviest tonnage could ride in safety but a few years ago. To protect this made land, and also to prevent the anchorage from being destroyed, a sea-wall has been built in front of the city.
The principal wharves are on the eastern side of the city, fronting this made land. North Point has some good wharves, but from the business portion the steep grades of the city is a great objection.
On landing at the ferry slip in the city, the first thing required is a good hotel. Now, if there is any one thing that San Francisco is noted for more, than another, it is
The Grand Hotel, Cosmopolitan, Lick, and Occidental are all first class, both in fare and price—charges, from 3 to 5 dollars per day. The Brooklyn, Russ, American Exchange, International, Orleans, and many others, are good hotels, at charges from $2 to $2.50 per day. Then there are a great many cheaper houses, with rooms from 25 to 75 cents per night, with restaurant meals to order.
San Francisco is situated on the north end of the southern peninsula which, with the northern one, separates the waters of San Francisco bay from those of the Pacific Ocean. Between these peninsulas is the GOLDEN GATE, a narrow strait, one mile wide, with a depth of 30 feet, connecting the bay with the ocean.
The first house built in San Francisco was in 1835. The place was then called "Yuba Buena," changed to San Francisco in 1847, before the discovery of gold. The city contains by last census 149,482 inhabitants, is well built and regularly laid out north of Market street, which divides the city into two sections; south
)
Click to view
Page 203
of this the streets have an eastern declension as compared with those running north. The city is situated in latitude, 37 deg. 48 sec. north; longitude, 120 deg. 27 min. west.
The climate is unsurpassed by that of any large seaport town in the United States—uniformity and dryness constituting its chief claim to superiority. There is but little rain during the year, only about half that of the Eastern States. The mean temperature is 54 deg., the variation being but 9 deg. during the year.
San Francisco in early days suffered fearfully from fires. The city was almost completely destroyed at six different times during the years of 1849, 50, 51, and 1852. The destruction has been estimated in round numbers to exceed $26,000,000. The result of these fires has been that nearly all the buildings built since 1852 has been built of brick, stone, or iron—particularly in the business portion. The city has many magnificent private residences, and cozy little home cottages, ornamented with evergreens, creeping vines, and beautiful flowers. The yards or grounds are laid out very tastefully with neat gravelled walks, mounds, statues, ponds, and sparkling fountains, where the "crystal waters flow."
The city is amply supplied with schools, both public and private. There is no institution of the city wherein the people take more interest and pride; none, of the credit and honor of which they are more jealous. Some of the finest buildings of the city were built for school purposes, the Denman and Lincoln school houses being the finest of the number.
There are 46 churches—of all kinds, creeds, and beliefs—including several Chinese "Joss Houses." The Jewish synagogue is the finest among them, situated on Sutter street.
The NEWSPAPER, and MAGAZINE, are the histories of the present, and the person who does not read them must be ignorant indeed. Californians are a reading people; and he that comes here to find fools brings his pigs to a very poor market. There are in the city 60 newspapers, magazines, and periodicals. There are 8 daily papers, the Alta Californian being the oldest and largest. The Bulletin, Morning Call, Morning Chronicle, Examiner, Abend Post (German), Demokrat (German), and Courrier de San Franciso (French), are all first class journals. Who is there who has not heard of the Golden Era and the Golden City? two first class literary weeklies. Or, of the Overland Monthly (magazine)? Then there is not a live ranchman or farmer on the coast who does not take the California Farmer! If, among all these publications, you can find nothing to suit you—nothing new—why, then, we advise you to read the Bible, and profit by its teachings.
CALIFORNIA IN MINIATURE.—The finest collections of views, and we might say almost the only complete one, of the Big Trees, Yo Semite, Geyser Springs, Pacific Railroad, Nevada, Oregon and the Pacific coast generally, are to be found at 317 & 319 Montgomery St., Thos. Houseworth & Co.'s. Many of the illustrations in the GUIDE were engraved from stereoscopic views taken by this house. We have always avoided "puffing," but we believe we are doing our readers a service in this case. In the east, at Messrs. Anthony & Co.'s, 591 Broadway, New York, will also be found a very fine collection.
THE MARKETS of San Francisco are one of the features of the city; those who never saw the fruit and vegetables of California should visit the markets. No other country can produce fruit in such profusion and perfection. The grapes, peaches, pears, etc., on exhibition in the city markets, represent the best productions of all parts of the State.
THE CALIFORNIA THEATRE, on Bush St., is the largest and most elegant, dovoted to legitimate drama.
The ALHAMBRA, on the same street, opera bouffe, burlesque, and minstrelsy.
The METROPOLITAN and the OPERA HOUSE, on Washington St., drama and opera.
)
Click to view
Page 204
HYDRAULIC MINING. (See pages 166 and 168.)
SNOW COVERINGS AND BRIDGE NEAR CISCO.
)
Click to view
Page 205
CHINESE THEATRES, two in number, with all their "tricks that are vain," perform nightly, but few can understand; yet they are worth one visit.
The PLAZA, WASHINGTON, UNION, COLUMBIA, LOBOS, HAMILTON, and ALAMO Squares, and YERBA BUENA, BUENA VISTA, and GOLDEN GATE PARKS, are all small, except the last, which contains 1,100 acres, and very little improved. The Oakland and Alameda parks are largely patronized by San Franciscans, who reach them by ferryboat. But what the city is deficient in parks is made up by, the
WOODWARD GARDENS.—R.B. Woodward, Esq., a gentleman who possessed both an ample fortune and a refined taste, laid out these gardens in 1860, to surround, adorn, and beautify his private residence, situated near the centre of the grounds. To this end the continents of both America and Europe were searched to procure every variety of ornamental trees, exotics, indigenous plants, or articles of rare virtu and value. For us to attempt to describe these beautiful grounds and do justice to the subject, were we able, it would take a larger book than the Guide. They must be seen to be appreciated. You will find in the "Art Gallery" rare paintings and statuary, in the "Zoological" department over 30 different kinds of wild animals, including the California lion and a mammoth grizzly bear, weighing 1,600 pounds, also a great variety of California birds.
In these grounds are towering evergreen trees and crystal lakes, oriental arbors—and beautiful statuary, delightful nooks and shady retreats, with creeping vines, fragrant flowers, sparkling fountains, sweet music, and, above all, the glorious California sky. Possessed of all these luxuriant surroundings, and with ample income, could any person be surprised that Mr. Woodford should persistently decline to open them to the curious public? But the time came at last. It was when the soldiers and sailors of his country lay bleeding in the hospitals, on the ships, in the camps, and on the battlefields, with widows, orphans, suffering and death on every side. The sanitary fund was low. Money must be had! Then it was that his noble heart leaped to the rescue. The grounds were thrown open to the public in aid of the Sanitary Fund. The receipts were princely; and who can say how many lives were saved, or the sufferings of the last moments of life alleviated, by the aid of the generous proprietor of the Woodward Gardens? These gardens were opened permanently to the public in May, 1866. They occupy 5 acres of ground, 4 of which are bounded by Market, Mission, 13th, and 14th Sts., with one acre to the south of 14th Sts., connected by tunnel under that street from the main garden.
The CITY GARDENS are N. E. corner Folsom and 12th streets.
The CITY HALL is on Kearny St., opposite the Plaza.
MISSION BAY is two miles south of the City Hall.
HORSE CARS run to nearly all parts of the city. Tickets cost 25 cents, with 4 coupons attached, each coupon good for one fare.
The city south of Market St. towards Mission bay is covered by residences, except portions of Second and Third Sts., which are occupied by retail shopkeepers. These streets are numbered from 1 to 26.
The IRON FOUNDRIES and MACHINE shops are on Howard and Fremont Sts. The heavy WHOLESALE HOUSES are mostly on Front, Battery and Sansom Sts., north from Market.
The main PRINTING OFFICES are on Clay St.
MONTGOMERY STREET is the Broadway of San Francisco, though Kearny St. disputes the honor.
CALIFORNIA STREET is the Wall Street of the city.
The CHEAP LODGING AND EATING HOUSES are mostly on Sacramento and Commercial Sts.
The POST OFFICE and CUSTOM HOUSE are on Washington St.
MERCHANTS' EXCHANGE BUILDING is on California St.
The STOCK EXCHANGE is in the Merchants' Exchange Building.
)
Click to view
Page 206
The BRANCH MINT of the U.S. will soon occupy the new building N.W. corner Mission and 5th Sts., a very fine building, which will cost, when completed, $1,250,000. About $4,000,000 are coined at this mint annually from the gold and silver of the Pacific coast.
WATER for the city use is obtained from Pillarcitos creek, 20 miles south of the city, in San Mateo Co., Lake Honda, 5 miles south, being used as a reservoir. Yet wells are numerous, the water being elevated by windmills.
The LIBRARIES are numerous. The Mercantile, on Bush St., the Odd Fellows, on Montgomery, the Mechanics' Institue, on Post St., the What Cheer, at the "What Cheer House," and the Young Men's Christian Association, are the principal ones, open free to tourists upon application.
The MECHANICS' PAVILION fronts on Geary St., covers one block of ground. The Mechanics' Institute own the building, and hold their fairs there.
The DRY DOCK at Hunter's Point, 6 miles southeast, is 465 feet long, 125 feet wide, and 40 feet deep, cut in solid rock, at a cost of $1,200,000.
PROTRERO SHIP YARDS are located at Protrero, and are reached by the city cars. All kinds or small craft for the coast service are built at these yards.
CHINA TOWN is situated on Sacramento, above Kearny, Dupont, between Sacramento and Washington Sts., and Jackson St., between Dupont and Kearny. These streets are occupied exclusively by Celestial shopkeepers, "Heathen Chinee."
The BARBARY COAST, a noted resort for thieves, cut-throats, and the vilest of the vile, is situated on Pacific St., between Kearney and Dupont Sts. We give the precise locality so that our readers may keep away. Give it a "wide berth," as you value your life.
ANGEL ISLAND, 3 miles north of the city, is 1 1/2 miles long, 3/4 of a mile wide.
Altitude, 771 feet. On this island are quarries of brown and blue stone, which are extensively used in the city for building purposes.
GOAT ISLAND, or "Yerba Buena," 2 1/2 miles east, nearly round, containing 350 acres. Altitude, 340 feet.
ALCATRAZ ISLAND is 1 1/4 miles north, strongly fortified. The summit is 140 feet above tide, surrounded by a belt of batteries, which command the entrance to the harbor—a "key to the position." These islands are all owned by the government.
SECRET ORDERS are numerous in San Francisco—too numerous to note here.
POINT LOBOSE is 6 miles west.
FORT POINT is north of west from the City Hall, 5 miles at the south end of Golden Gate. It is the most heavily fortified on the coast—on the plan of Fort Sumter, in South Carolina.
TELEGRAPH HILL, to the north, is 394 feet high.
RUSSIAN HILL is 360 feet high.
CLAY ST. HILL is 376 feet high.
The TWIN PEAKS, 4 miles southwest, rise 1,200 feet. The visitor can obtain from the summit of these peaks a fine view of the whole country, for many miles around—the Golden Gate, and the great Pacific Ocean.
FERRY-BOATS run regularly between San Francisco and Oakland, Alameda, Sancelito, San Quentin, &c., &c.
RAIL CARS via San Jose to Gilroy, 80 miles.
The Southern Pacific Railroad Co. have issued $28,000,000 first mortgage 6 per cent. gold bonds, to extend their road through Monterey, Fresno, Tugare, Kern, San Bernardino, and San Diego counties to the Colorado River, 750 miles from San Francisco, and it is designed to complete the road as soon as possible.
STEAMERS leave regularly for Vallejo, 28 miles; Benicia, 30; Petalumna, 48; Santa Cruz, 76; Monterey, 100; Stockton, 110; Sacramento, 125; San Luis Obispo, 209 ; Eureka, 233; Crescent City, 280; Santa Barbary, 280; San Pedro, 364; San Diego, 456 ; Portland, 642; Victoria, V.I., 753; Mazatlan, 1,480; Guaymas, 1,710; La Paz, 1,802 ; Acapulco, 1,808; Sitka, 1,951. Honolulu, 2,090; Panama, 3,230 ; Yokohama, 4,764; Hiogo, 5,104; Auckland, 5,907; Shang-
)
Click to view
Page 207
hae, 5,964; Hong Kong, 6,384; Sidney, Australia, 7,183; Melbourne, 7,700 miles each. For further particulars
☞ See TRANS-CONTINENTAL TIME TABLE in the front of the Guide.
Look! here we are on the golden shores of California. We have come with the traveler from the far east to the far west; from the Atlantic to the Pacific—from where the sun rises out of the waters, and sets in the waters, covering an extent of country hundreds of miles in width, and recording a telegram of the most important places and objects of interest—brief, necessarily, but to the point—and we feel certain a pardon would be granted by the reader if we now said
But how can we? The theme is so exhaustless! We cannot quit—not until we have made one trip at least. So let us procure a carriage and take a "swing around the circle." First, to the
Six miles west. Horse-cars run out 2 1/2 miles, connecting with a regular omnibus line the balance of the way. Early in the morning is the best time to start, as the coast breeze commences about eleven o'clock, after which it will not be so pleasant. We will be fashionable, get up early, and drive out to the "Cliff House" for breakfast.
Within the first 2 1/2 miles we pass a number of cemeteries; some of them contain beautiful monuments, and are very tastefully ornamented. The principal ones are the Lone Mountain, Laurel Hill, and Odd Fellows. In the Lone Mountain cemetery, on our right, under that tall and most conspicuous monument, which can be seen for many miles away, rests the remains of the lamented Senator Broderick, who fell a victim of the "Code Duello" through jealousy and political strife. Near by is the monuments of Starr King, Baker, and many others, whose lives and services have done honor to the State. On the summit of Lone Mountain, to the left, stands a large cross—which is a noted land mark, and can be seen from far out to sea.
In a little valley, close to the road, we pass on the right, surrounded by a high fence, one of the most noted RACE-COURSES in the State.
From the city the road leads over a succession of sand hills; from the summit of some of these we catch an occasional glimpse of the big drink in the distance, the view seeming to improve as we gain the summit of each, until the last one is reached, when there, almost at our feet, stretching away farther than the eye can penetrate, lies the great Pacific Ocean, in all its mysterious majesty. Look! we will be sure to see numerous ships, small craft and steamers, the latter marked by a long black trail of smoke. They are a portion of the world's great merchant marine, which navigate these mighty waters, going and coming, night and day, laden with the treasure, and the productions and representatives of every nation, land and clime.
Close on our right is the Golden Gate, with the bold dark bluffs of the northern peninsula beyond. The "Gate" is open, an invitation to all nations to enter—but beside them are the "Boys in Blue," with ample fortifications, surmounted by the "Bull Dogs" of "Uncle Sam," standing ready, to close them at the first signal of danger.
Our descent from the summit of the last hill seems rapid, as we are almost lost in admiration of the magnificence spread out before us, until we arrive at the "Cliff House."
The stranger on the road, and at the Cliff House, would think it was a gala day—something unusual. Such grand "turn-outs," and so many. Fact is, this "DRIVE" is to the San Franciscan what the "Central Park" is to the New Yorker—the "style" of the former is not to be outdone by the latter. The drive out is always a cool one, and the first thing usually done on arriving is to take a drink of—water, and then, order breakfast, and such nice little private breakfast rooms, and so many of them! Oh, these Californians know how to do the thing! They do nothing by halves.
Hark! "Yoi-Hoi, Yoi-Hoi Yoi." What
-view image-){kind=link}
)
Click to view
Page 208
the deuce is that? Those hearing us smile. We do not ask, but conclude it must be a big herd of healthy donkeys passing, when two gentlemen enter from the rear, and one of them, says, "Colonel (there is no lower grade in California), I will bet you 50 shares in the Gould & Curry or Red Jacket that General Grant, that big seal on the top of the rock, will weigh 3,000 pounds." We did not stop to hear more, but rushed out the back door on to a long veranda running the whole length of the house, which is situated on a projecting cliff, 200 feet above, and almost overhanging the waters, when "Yoi-Hoi, Yoi-Hoi, Yoi"—and there was our donkeys, 500 yards away, laying on, scrambling up, plunging off, fighting, and sporting around three little rocky islands. The largest of these islands is called "Santo Domingo." It is quite steep—few can climb it. A sleek, dark-looking seal, which they call "Sumner," once tried it, but fell off. Away up on the very top—basking in the sun, with an occasional "Yoi-hoi, boyi"—lies General Grant, the biggest whopper of them all. We knew him at the first sight. He had something in his mouth, and looked wise. Often when the din of his fellow seals below become fearful, who are ever quarreling in their efforts to climb up, his "Yoi-hoi, Boyi" can be heard above them all—which, in seal language, means, "Let us have peace." Sea fowls in large numbers are hovering on and around these rocks. They too are very chattering, but we have no time to learn their language, as here comes a steamer bound for China. [See Frontispiece. -view image- ] It steams in close to the islands, and we think we can discern among the passengers Mr. G.F.T., on a trip "around the world," waving his compliments to the General on the top of the rock. Breakfast is called—being fashionable, we take another drink of water; and while eating a hearty meal, learn that these seals are protected by the laws of the State against capture. Then pay our bill, and the ostler his detainer, take our seat, and whirl around over a broad winding road, which is blasted out of the rocky bluff on our left, to the sandy beach below.
){kind=link}
Right here we meet Old Pacific himself—face to face—near enough to "shake." He is a good fellow when he is himself—pacific—but he drinks a great deal, perhaps too much; but certain it is he gets very noisy at times—very turbulent. In driving along the beach, we come to one of the evidences of his fearful wrath. Look! do you see that ship laying on her side?
One night, after a big carousal, when it was said Old Pacific bad been drinking a great deal—more than usual—and was in a towering passion, he drove this ship up almost high and dry on the beach, where you see her. Not content with that, chased the escaping occupants far into the sand bills, throwing spars, masts, and rigging after them.
We don't want any of that in ours. No, thank-ee—"None for Joe."
We will keep our eye on Old Pacific, and drive along down the beach, by several fine hotels, and then turn into the hills to the left, passing over a high point, where some fine views can be had of the surrounding country, and around to the old
Here is food for the curious. But we cannot afford to stop here long, as old Boreas is getting waked up, and is sliding the sand over the bluffs after us rather disagreeable. This mission was founded in 1775, by Spanish missionaries, who for over 60 years wielded a mighty influence among the native Californians (Indians). In its most prosperous days the Mission possessed 76,000 head of stock cattle, 2,920 horses, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of work oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchandise and hard cash.
The greater portion of all this wealth was confiscated by the Mexican government, so that when California became a portion of the United States little remained except these old adobe walls and grounds, together with about 600 vol-
)
Click to view
Page 209
SEALS, OR SEA–LIONS.
umes of old Spanish books, manuscripts, and records.
Returning to the city, we pass many objects of interest well worthy of notice, but we cannot attend to them. Just come and see how it is yourself.
CALIFORNIA was first discovered in 1542 by a Portuguese, Juan R. Cabrillo, while in the Spanish service. It was held by the Spanish, then by the Mexican governments, until 1848, when by treaty it became a portion of the United States. It was admitted as a State in 1850. It covers an area of 160,000 square miles, divided about equally into mining, agricultural, timber, and grazing lands. All kinds of grain, fruit, and vegetables, grow in profusion. The grape culture has occupied the attention of many of her people, who find that they can produce
)
Click to view
Page 210
wine surpassed by none in this country, and few in the old. Large quantities are used throughout the United States, with a yearly increased shipment to European markets. Her manufactures are of a high order, and attract favorable notice at home and abroad. The spirit of enterprise manifested by her citizens has deserved and won success. Under the liberal, far-seeing policy of the younger class of capitalists and merchants, who appeared about the time of the inauguration of the great railroad, a new order of things arose. Men began to regard this land as their future home, who, before this era, cared to stay here no longer than while they obtained a fortune, which they expected to get within a few months at farthest.
From this time, money expanded, trade, agriculture, mining and manufactures began to assume their proper stations. The old, narrow, ruinous nopolicy which marked the era of the old capitalist, passed away, and a brighter, better era opened to the people of the Pacific slope.
The BANK OF CALIFORNIA is one of those live institutions, with a capital of $5,000,000 gold. We gave its history in a former volume. We can only add—the managers know their business, and do nothing by halves. The bank has branches all over the State, and in Oregon and Nevada.
The STATE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY hold annual fairs in September. They are largely attended—visitors and exhibitors coming from all parts of the State, Nevada, and Oregon.
The MECHANICS' INSTITUTE hold annual fairs.
The SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS are about 500 miles long, and from 60 to 100 miles in width, their general direction northwest and southeast. The height of the principal peaks are—Mts. Whitney, 15,088 feet; Williams, 14,500; Shasta, 14,444; Tyndall, 14,386; Raweah, 14,000; Gardner, 14,000; King, 14,000; Brewer, 13,886 ; Dana, 13,227 ; Lyell, 13,217: Castle Peak, 13,000; Cathedral Peak, 11,000; Lassen's, 10,577 feet.
The COAST RANGE is the range of mountains nearest the Pacific Ocean, extending the whole length of the State, broken at intervals with numerous small rivers and narrow fertile valleys. The principal peaks are—Mts. Ballery, 6,357 feet high; Pierce,6,000; Hamilton,4,450; Diablo, 3,876; Banch, 3,790; Chonal, 3,530; St. Helena, 3,700; Tamalpals, 2,604 feet. Mount St. Bernardino, away to the southward, in the range of that name, is 8,370 feet in height.
The RAINY SEASON is between the first of November and the first of May, the rain falling principally in the night, while the days are mostly clear and pleasant. At Christmas the whole country is covered with green grass, in Jannary with a carpet of flowers, and in April and May with ripening fields of grain. During 15 years of observation the average has been 220 clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy days, each year. The nights are cool the year round, requiring a coverlid during the hottest and dryest season.
FARALLONES ISLANDS are seven in number, 30 miles west of Golden Gate, in the Pacific ocean, totally barren of everything but seal, sea-lions, and waterfowls. These are very numerous. Many of the seals will weigh from 2,000 to 4,000 lbs. and are quite tame. They are protected from capture by State laws; but the poor birds—and they are legion—which inhabit these islands, laying millions of eggs every year, are robbed with impunity. Most of the eggs in the markets of San Francisco are brought from these islands. The islands are all rocks; the highest peak is surmounted with a light-house of the first order, 340 feet above the water.
SAN QUENTIN is a noted place, of Summer and winter resort. The resident tourists number from 600 to 1,000, their term of residence varying from six months to a lifetime. The quarters for their accommodation are furnished by the State, free of charge. The Lieutenant-Governor exercises personal supervision over the guests, assisted by many subordinates and a company of soldiers.
)
Click to view
Page 211
TRUCKEE RIVER, NEAR STATE LINE
AMERICAN RIVER, FROM CAPE HORN.—SEE PAGE 168.
By many it has been held as a theory that the Yuma desert was once and ocean bed. At intervals, pools of salt water have stood for awhile in the midst of the surrounding waste of sand, disappearing only to rise again in the same or other localities. A short time since, one of these saline lakes disappeared, and a party of Indians reported the discovery of a "big ship," left by the receding waves. A party of Americans at once proceeded to the spot, and found, imbedded in the sands, the wreck of a large vessel. Nearly one-third of the forward part of the ship or bark is plainly visible. The stump of the bowsprit remains, and portions of the timbers of the wreck are perfect. The wreck is located forty miles north of the San Bernardino and Fort Youma road, and thirty miles west of Los Palmos, a well-known watering place on the desert. The road across the desert has been traveled for more than one hundred years. The history of the ill-fated vessel can, of course, never be known; but the discovery of its decaying timbers, in the midst of what has long been a desert, will furnish, savans with food for discussion, and may, perhaps, furnish an important aid in the elucidation of questions of science.
)
Click to view
Page 212
The guests come here, not of their own will, but through their folly, and we believe they would quit the place, if they could. By law it is known as the State Prison. Route, by ferry, 12 miles north.
SAN, RAFAEL, the county-seat of Marin county. Population, about 800. It was settled in 1817 by the Jesuitical missionaries. It is situated in a beautiful little valley, and of late has become a thriving suburban town. The Journal and News, both weekly papers, are published here. Connected with San Quentin by railroad—distance, 3 miles east.
MT. TAMALPAIS.—Route, by ferry to San Quentin, 12 miles north of San Francisco, 3 miles by railroad to San Rafael, saddle horses for the remainder of the journey, 12 miles to the summit, which is 2,604 feet high.
NAPA CITY is the county-seat of Napa county, situated in Napa Valley, on Napa River, and the Napa Valley Railroad, with the NAPA SODA SPRINGS, 6 miles to the east. Yet the Napa's seldom Nap, but often "Nip." It is a lively town of about 3,500 inhabitants, at the head of tide-water navigation, sporting two weekly newspapers, the Register and Reporter, and in the midst of a country noted for its mild and genial climate, the great fertility of its soil, and its many well-cultivated vineyards, producing annually over 200,000 gallons of wine and brandy.
The water from these springs has become quite celebrated; a large amount of it is bottled annually, and shipped to all parts of the State. Route, steamer to Vallejo, 28 miles, and 16 more by railroad.
SONOMA.—This town is a quiet old place, founded in 1820, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Many of the old original adobe buildings are still standing, in a good state of preservation. Sonoma has the honor of being the place where the old "Bear Flag" was first raised. It is connected by stage with Napa, distance 12 miles.
CALISTOGA IS the Most Popular Of all the summer resorts near the bay. The springs to be found here possess great medicinal qualities, and have already won a high local reputation. In the town, every accommodation in the way of hotels, etc., is afforded to the numerous visitors who annually gather here to bathe in, and drink the invigorating water, enjoy the unsurpassed hunting and fishing in the vicinity, and above all, to breathe the pure air of the charming little valley, while viewing the beautiful mountain scenery. Route, steamer to Vallejo 28 miles, Napa Valley Railroad, 43 miles more.
THE, GEYSERS are 25 miles distant from Calistoga by stage. These springs, with their taste, smell and noise, are fearful! WONDERFUL! We have been told that the productions of California "beats the Devil," but we feel certain he has not left the country; and is not far from this place. Here are over 200 mineral springs, the waters of which are hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, soda, alum, sulphur—well, you should be suited with the varieties of sulphur! There is white sulphur and black sulphur, yellow sulphur and red sulphur, and how many more deponent saith not. But if there are any other kinds wanted, and they are not to be seen, call for them, they are there, together with all kinds of contending elements, roaring, thundering, hissing, bubbling, spurting and steaming, with a smell that would disgust any Chinese dinner party. We are unable to describe all these wonderful things. Go and see how it is yourself—but first, have Schreiber insure your life in the Pacific Mutual for the family that you ought to have, if you havn't.
PETALUMA is the largest town in Sonoma county. It is situated on Petaluma creek, at the head of navigation. Population, 4,500. It is the shipping point for the grain raised in the adjoining country. The Crescent, daily and weekly, and the Journal and Argus, weekly, are newspapers published here. The California Pacific R.R. Co. are building a branch road, which will pass through the town to Santa Rosa, Healdsburgh and Bloomfield, from Vallejo. The
)
Click to view
Page 213
route now is via steamer from San Francisco, 48 miles.
SANTA ROSA, the county-seat of Sonoma county, is situated in the midst of a very rich agricultural region. Population 1,500. It is 16 miles from Petaluma, 16 from Healdsburgh, with both of which it will soon be connected by rail, as above alluded to. The Democrat, a weekly paper, is published here. The leading industry of the county is wheat, the yield for 1869 was 2,120,213 bushels, the second largest in the State. The same year the number of grape-vines cultivated was 4,112,279, producing over 350,000 gallons of wine and brandy—the largest in the State except Los Angeles county.
HEALDSBURGH, a beautiful little town of about 1,500 inhabitants, is situated on the Russian River, 16 miles northwest from Santa Rosa, and 20 miles from the ocean. Russian Valley, in which the town is located, is noted for its great yield of wheat, and the extraordinary quickness of its soil, producing potatoes, peas, and many other vegetables within sixty-five days from the time the seed is planted. The Russian River Flag a live weekly paper, is published here. The tourists will find excellent hunting and fishing near by, with ample hotel accommodations.
EUREKA is a port of entry, situated in Humboldt county, on the east side of Humboldt bay, and is the principal shipping point for the lumber and timber from the extensive forests of redwood, which this county is noted for. A large amount of redwood lumber is shipped annually from Eureka to foreign as well as home ports. The Northern Enterprise and the Times, both weekly newspapers, are published here. The Humboldt land office is also located here, with our genial friend Gardner, from Yolo, as register. Population 2,500. Route: steamer from San Francisco, 233 miles, north; also by stage from Petaluma.
LOS ANGELES is the county seat of Los Angeles county, in southern California. Settled in 1781. Present population 7,000. Has two daily and three weekly newspapers—the News, daily and weekly; the Star, daily and weekly; and the Republican, weekly. It is the headquarters for the U.S. southern district of the Pacific, and contains the principal military barracks and storehouses.
The county produced in 1869 more corn than any other county in the State, 281,500 bushels. The same year it returned 90,000 bushels castor-beans, 3,000 lemon and 25,000 orange trees, 12,000 horses, nearly 40,000 cattle, 209,000 sheep, and 1,197,000 gallons of wine and brandy.
It is situated on the Los Angeles river, 23 miles from the port of San Pedro; but the principal shipping point is at Wilmington, a few miles above San Pedro, at the head of the bay, with which it is connected by railroad 18 miles distant. Regular steamers touch at San Pedro for San Francisco, 364 miles; San Diego, 82 miles by water, 131 miles by stage. Los Angeles is also connected by stage with all the interior towns, and with Gilroy, 366 miles; from thence by rail to San Francisco, 80 miles.
SAN DIEGO Was first settled by the Jesuit missionaries in 1769, and is the oldest town in the State. It is a port of entry, county seat of San Diego county. Population at present about 4,000, but rapidly increasing. It is situated on Sao Diego bay, which, for its size, is the most sheltered, secure and finest harbor in the world. The bay is 12 miles long and 2 miles wide, with never less than 30 feet of water at low tide, and a good sandy bottom. By act of Congress, it is to be the western terminus of the Southern Pacific Railroad, and will from this time undoubtedly make rapid progress. It is connected by steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles north, and by stage to all inland towns. A stage line runs to Tucson, 475 miles; Santa Fe New Mexico, 1,075 miles. It is 14 miles north of the dividing line between Upper and Lower California, and is destined to make a city of great importance. Tropical fruit of every variety is produced in the county, and the climate is one of the finest in the world, the thermometer never falling below 40 in the winter, or
)
Click to view
Page 214
rising above 80 in the summer. The county is well timbered and well watered, producing large crops of all kinds of grain, fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin ores have been recently discovered, which promise at this time to be very extensive and profitable. Several quartz mills have recently been erected. Two weekly papers are published at San Diego, The Bulletin and the Union.
The Central Pacific R.R. Co. have now in course of construction, at the extensive works of Messrs. Kimball & Co., of San Francisco, a DRAWING ROOM SLEEPING CAR, which, in fine workmanship and elegant appointments, when finished, will eclipse anything of the kind ever before attempted. It is to be built entirely of California and Oregon timber, and will be beautifully inlaid with portions of each of the different kinds of wood grown on the Pacific slope. The car will be supplied with all the modern improvements and conveniences throughout, and will be a car that Californians may well be proud of. Cost, over $50,000.
(This car is to be finished about the 1st of May, 1871, and we hope to see it standing on the track in New York for a few days at least, to show the people what can be done—that, too, in California.)
CROFUTT'S TRANS–CONTINENTAL TOURISTS' GUIDE, SOLD EVERYWHERE.
Funded by the
Institute of Museum and Library Services